I'm trying to come up with a full line of specialty corvette paints to compliment my paint business. I'm thinking of every correct paint needed for Vette restoration. I already have all the exterior, frame black, and most of the wheel colors formulated. Now I want to get into the detail stuff. I need ideas of painted areas you have noticed that are unusual colors. Stuff like gauge pod paint, grille paints, or other accent colors. Not the interior dyed colors but painted items (I'm already working on the dye formulas). Any ideas?
Thanks!

Larry

 

Pick up a chassis detail kit from Quanta... it has a bunch of the inspection and stencil paints in it. Shocks and springs are the other chassis items with special coatings....

Good luck!

 

1982 Collector Edition colors.

The large decals are all gone, now some people are painting on the fade colors. Me included. but my colors wound up to red. Maybe you could find an original set to get some shade samples from.



Also, some of us are refinishing our rims, even going as far as chrome plating them. the color code we have for between the fins seem to be to dark, it is darker than the original color on the caps.
This is the code we now have Dupont # B8311K
People are selling manufactured caps now. EBAY ITEM

First set to be chromed. paint already applied. this person tried to add to the color to get it closer.

 

I would be interested if you have or can recreate an exterior touchup paint for the 1989 Arctic Pearl White (31U). There won't be much additional demand for it though as a maximim of only 5 cars still exist in that color. I've been told that any new pearl mixes wouldn't match the original because of some sort of a difference in the shape of the particles used now days. As you can tell by those technical terms, I'm obviously not a paint expert. I don't intend to repaint the car but would like to touch up a few dings.

 

Good ideas guys - thanks!
I'll add those to the list to do research on.

Tworacy!
I do have that color formulated. When we formulate a color we usually start with original formula conversions or our paint company formulas. Then we compare a samle to an original chip and make adjustments if it's off. So then we know it matches the chip at least.
The problem with your color is that it's a tri-coat. That makes it more difficult to match. The itermediate coat contains almost all pearl with just some binder. That makes it transluscent. The match will depend on making sure the number of coats you lay down makes the paint match. It has to be sprayed not dabbed.
What we do with almost any tri-coat is to make a test panel. The panel is entirely sprayed with the basecoat. Then the entire panel is coated with the intermediate coat. Then a portion is maked off and another coat of the intermediate is sprayed. We do this 3 or 4 times so that there is one panel with varying number of intermediate coats on it. Then the panel is cleared. From this we can compare the original paint and know how many coats of intermediate it will take to match the car. Further, the repair areas have to be blended into the adjascent areas. This sounds more difficult than it really is.

If you want to, I can send you the spray cans. You can see if it matches the original grain and works for you. If it doesn't work you don't have to pay for it. If you want me to make the test panel for you, I can do that too.

Thanks for the help guys!

Keep the ideas coming!

Larry

 

not about paint, but you may know... i'm looking to DIY my Q-jet's need to
recolor,,, any help???? thanks

 

As I understand it carbs were originally dyed or plated, depending on the carb. I've painted a few that look close to the correct color. But I have nothing perfected that looks as built or that will withstand the gas real well.
I know there are companies that can do this though using the original method.

Larry

 

Larry,

where are you located? I'm in Southern California.

Sounds complicated but I guess that's why they discontinued the color before it was ever really available to the public. Couldn't make it consistant enough. When you look at the color in bright sun, the pearl really shows up but so does the inconsistancy of the color. Actually, that inconsistancy should make it easier to blend a new section if needed.

Once a sample is mixed and put in a spray can, how long is it good for?

Thanks.

Monty

 

I'm in the UP of Michigan.
The basecoats should have a long shelf life - like years. I haven't been able to find a good spray can clear. So I've been selling the claer with activator and a spray bottle. Once they are mixed and activated (at the customers location) it only lasts a few hours before hardening.

Larry

 

Larry,
Although I can't think of any new ideas that haven't been mentioned here already, but when you've finished compiling the listing of what you have available I'd be interested in a copy. It seems flat to semi-gloss blacks are always a problem to duplicate. I wish someone would prepare some accurate sample chips for comparison purposes that could be referenced against to match the gloss (or lack of gloss) correctly.

:thumbs:

 

Thanks!
Believe it or not, I'm doing that right now. I'm spraying cards out with different levels of flattner in black urethane. What I'm experiencing right now is a huge drop in gloss between 75% flatner and 100% flatner. I suspect that is what is causing the difficulties. Another problem is that it takes days for the paint to aquire it's final sheen.

Larry