We vatted the frame and re-welded and gusseted it. We also used solid motor mounts. Other than that, we didn't do anything special to the chassis.

I already had offset trailing arms and a composite leaf spring in the rear. We installed coil-overs and Steeroids rack and pinion steering from Speed Direct up front. We also added a Tru Track serpentine set-up, a Be Cool radiator and did a few other things to further lighten up the front.

The big issues will be hood and other clearance problems, transmission, traction and exhaust.

Clearance - We used my existing L-88 style hood but had to mill my intake manifold to get the carb to fit. When we did the fuel injection, we customized the sheet metal intake to fit. You will also have a little clearance problems with your AC box and the brake booster/valve cover. The first one will require a little reshaping of the box. The second one can be fixed by a smaller box, a switch to a Hydroboost system or an ABS electric system like the one I have.

Transmission - I am running a Richmond 6-speed. I got this when I still had the original (albeit modified 454) because of its torque ratings. Some people have used a T56. There are trade-offs, but I have been very happy with the more rugged Richmond.

Traction - You will need big wheels and tires. I was already running 17" Fikse FM5's, 8.5" wide in the front and 9.5" wide in the rear. My tires are Michelin Pilot Sports, 275x40x17's in the front and 335x35x17's in the rear. I wish I had used 18's in the rear. Even with this set-up and 2-way adjustable QA-1 shocks in the rear dialed in, it will spin in place from 50+ mph. If it were to hook-up, I would be concerned about the drive shafts, etc. in the rear. I have oversized half-shafts and Spicer u-joints and am adding a DragVette loop system and possibly a Tom's set-up to further strengthen the rear-end set-up.

Exhaust - I am running Hooker Competition Plus Headers with 3" aluminized mandrel bent exhaust. I had 2.5" but it did not work.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you need anything else.

 

great info. could you tell me of any driveline changes i might need to make, and also what rear end should i use. I think the richmond transmission is one i would go with. My frame looks ok visually, but i am no expert. I am converting from an automatic transmission and a 165 hp 350. I have the transverse leaf spring and also the trailing arms. I am planning on beefing up the steering and suspension.

 

Welcome to the Forum.

 

I have 3.36 rear end but am switching back to a 3.08. I put the 3.36 in about 20 years ago to get a little more low end umph but still allow me to take road trips comfortably when I had the 454 and the original 4-spd. tranny (M21). With the 572 and the Richmond 6-spd., you really don't need the 3.36 (unless you are trying to build a drag racer) as it makes 1st gear too low/short. I will probably go with a Tom's set-up. Check out their website for drive shaft options. Another good choice is Van Steel.

 

Welcome

 

Welcome to the forum..

 

Regarding the tom's setup, do you mean tom's differentials in california or the one in Idaho? I decided to get a 502ci engine, have an automatic tranny, and am also going with the van steel trailing arms so i can beef up the rear wheels. what I am wondering is if i should change out my rear end, leaf spring, and rear suspension completely, or just wait and see what happens. at this point my rear end and suspension is original and i am worried about whether it will handle that engine. what do you think?

 

i was wondering about the tom's setup. is this tom's differentials in idaho or the one in california? what does the tom's setup entail? I am looking at my old differential and see some oil leakage where the half shaft comes out, and also am wondering about my rear spring. I may just see how things go when I put my new engine in. anyway if you could let me know it would be great. your car looks fantastic!

 

Welcome aboard!

 

Thanks for the kind word about my car, and I am sorry to be so slow to respond. As for the rear-end, I meant Tom's in Idaho. Unless you plan on doing some serious drag racing with your car, Tom will recommend the 1350 axle kit for your car. He didn't recommend the bigger ones for my set-up. As for the differential, Tom has lost his previous assembler and is now using Steve at Perfect Pattern in Spokane, Washington. Go to Tom's website and peruse catalog to see what his axle kits and differentials include. As for the rear spring, I would recommend a higher rate composite one, such as the ones from Vette Brake Products. Check out Van Steel also.

My only advice is to be careful with hard standing starts and first to second gear shifts. I have busted two u-joints at about 60 mph. It is no fun and busts-up darn near everything underneath the car.

Good luck.

 

I appreciate the info. I finally figured out that Tom was in Idaho, and am trying to figure out what to do about the rear end. It sounds as if the 1350 axle kit would work for me, because this isn't a drag racer, more of a cruiser, but I would like to take it to the track a time or two for fun. I will check out Vette brake products regarding the spring. I am a long way off, but it will be great when this comes together. Thanks again.

 

You are most welcome. Good luck and please post pics.

 

I will send some pics, a before and after. I am going to start on it next week, will probably take a couple of months to complete it (I hope). This is very exciting, hope it turns out well.