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c3 winter project in progress

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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 07:45 PM
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Default c3 winter project in progress

this is what i am working on for the next few months. this is a 99% original survivor, 1973 coupe 4-speed car. all matching numbers with 67,000 miles on clock. i have completely stripped the body to bare fiberglass and will be repainted oem blue via PPG DBC urethane base coat clear coat. this is going to be a very nice 73 coupe when it is completed. i will post pictures as progress is made. i plan on having this car blocked and prepared for paint sometime in late Jan to mid Feb...Part of my garage converts to a very good spray booth.
THIS IS THE CLEANEST C3 CORVETTE BODY I HAVE EVER WORKED ON!!

this is a customers car.!!!!

BARE FIBERGLASS....




First coat of PPG K-36 primer ( let the wet sanding begin)after hand blocking this first coat of primer down by at least 90% to fill sand scratches etc i will be applying an epoxy.

Last edited by 34RedRage; Dec 17, 2008 at 12:28 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 01:01 AM
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Looks great , I would love to see it when its done. But I was wondering, I am currently set up in my garage also for painting (80gal compressor with an inline desiccant drying system) any way I repainted my 94' and 89' last year at a friend’s booth and took them all the way down to the glass and I was told to never never use the K36 as a primer surfacer (Quote: Any 2k primer will be called a sealer too. but it is a urethane primer and it will shrink, cause solvent pop and a host of other problems. epoxy is used to seal the surface, provide adhesion and color hold out. I would strongly advise not putting K36 on raw glass. and only start with epoxy) is this true? After much research on this forum under paint and spending much time on my own painting, allot of the other experienced painters also agreed. I was just curious, always trying to better my painting techniques. Thanks
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ls1569
I was told to never never use the K36 as a primer surfacer (Quote: Any 2k primer will be called a sealer too. but it is a urethane primer and it will shrink, cause solvent pop and a host of other problems. epoxy is used to seal the surface, provide adhesion and color hold out. I would strongly advise not putting K36 on raw glass. and only start with epoxy) is this true?


I always heard to start with the DP LF Epoxy first too!
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 10:59 AM
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Very nice can't wait to see some pics of it done.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ls1569
Looks great , I would love to see it when its done. But I was wondering, I am currently set up in my garage also for painting (80gal compressor with an inline desiccant drying system) any way I repainted my 94' and 89' last year at a friend’s booth and took them all the way down to the glass and I was told to never never use the K36 as a primer surfacer (Quote: Any 2k primer will be called a sealer too. but it is a urethane primer and it will shrink, cause solvent pop and a host of other problems. epoxy is used to seal the surface, provide adhesion and color hold out. I would strongly advise not putting K36 on raw glass. and only start with epoxy) is this true? After much research on this forum under paint and spending much time on my own painting, allot of the other experienced painters also agreed. I was just curious, always trying to better my painting techniques. Thanks

i agree with that assessment but i just have a different way to get to the epoxy stage.
i will be spraying a coat of epoxy sealer after i wet sand about 90% of this first coat of k-36 primer off at 220 grit. i have always filled any sand scratches ect first with a coat of primer before epoxy is applied. just the way i have done it for years. i have always felt that if you spray the first coat over raw glass with epoxy, then cover with k2 primer to do your first wet sand you will be breaking the epoxy barrier in places which can cause problems. i will post a pic when it has been sanded and prepped for epoxy...ed

Last edited by 34RedRage; Dec 17, 2008 at 12:21 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 04:25 PM
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Wow, great project. Can't wait to see it done.
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by vettesplus
i agree with that assessment but i just have a different way to get to the epoxy stage.
i will be spraying a coat of epoxy sealer after i wet sand about 90% of this first coat of k-36 primer off at 220 grit. i have always filled any sand scratches ect first with a coat of primer before epoxy is applied. just the way i have done it for years. i have always felt that if you spray the first coat over raw glass with epoxy, then cover with k2 primer to do your first wet sand you will be breaking the epoxy barrier in places which can cause problems. i will post a pic when it has been sanded and prepped for epoxy...ed
Thanks Ed. again I’m a young novas painter who is always trying to better my skills (I love this hobby) I will have to try this technique on one of my cars as soon as it warms up a little. I’m thinking about changing the color on my 99'FRC from Black to HOC Tangelo or Sunset Orange.
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1569
Thanks Ed. again I’m a young novas painter who is always trying to better my skills (I love this hobby) I will have to try this technique on one of my cars as soon as it warms up a little. I’m thinking about changing the color on my 99'FRC from Black to HOC Tangelo or Sunset Orange.
the main reason i use the k-36 is it is so much easier to sand and it fills so well...ed
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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 08:51 AM
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Looks like a fun project, Ed. Keep us posted on your progress.
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