Power Tool needed... toe kick saw
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 936
Likes: 6
From: Hamburg PA
Power Tool needed... toe kick saw
I know this is a long shot, but thought i would try anyway.
I am installing a tile floor this weekend and need a Toe Kick Saw to cut the flooring underneath the toe kicks (cabinets) in the kitchen.
Does anyone in the tri-state area have one that i can borrow (for a fee of course)?
i am out in Coatesville, pa 19320.
Thanks,
Rick
rickgrebner@comcast.net
I am installing a tile floor this weekend and need a Toe Kick Saw to cut the flooring underneath the toe kicks (cabinets) in the kitchen.
Does anyone in the tri-state area have one that i can borrow (for a fee of course)?
i am out in Coatesville, pa 19320.
Thanks,
Rick
rickgrebner@comcast.net
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,087
Likes: 4
From: granville mass
never heard of one, it's a great idea though.
are they tile saws, or just for vinyl floors?
did you try Home Depot?
Some of them are getting to have pretty decent inventories for rent now.
are they tile saws, or just for vinyl floors?
did you try Home Depot?
Some of them are getting to have pretty decent inventories for rent now.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 936
Likes: 6
From: Hamburg PA
nothing at Home Depot or Lowes....
there are mainly used for the vinyl/wood floor underneath the toekicks of the cabinets....
you can buy a different blade and use it on tile...
there are mainly used for the vinyl/wood floor underneath the toekicks of the cabinets....
you can buy a different blade and use it on tile...
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,325
Likes: 0
From: You can't get there from here NJ
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I know this is a long shot, but thought i would try anyway.
I am installing a tile floor this weekend and need a Toe Kick Saw to cut the flooring underneath the toe kicks (cabinets) in the kitchen.
Does anyone in the tri-state area have one that i can borrow (for a fee of course)?
i am out in Coatesville, pa 19320.
Thanks,
Rick
rickgrebner@comcast.net
I am installing a tile floor this weekend and need a Toe Kick Saw to cut the flooring underneath the toe kicks (cabinets) in the kitchen.
Does anyone in the tri-state area have one that i can borrow (for a fee of course)?
i am out in Coatesville, pa 19320.
Thanks,
Rick
rickgrebner@comcast.net
This is a specialty tool, and is rather expensive to buy. I have seen them, and used them, but not in a long time.
Rather than use one of these to cut back a toe kick on a cabinet, you would be better off cutting your wood or ceramic tile up to the toe kick, and then using a shoe molding to cover any gap you may have there. REMEMBER, alot of times the installer shims the front of the cabinets to get them level, and if you undercut the toe kick of the cabinets, you will cut away the part of the cabinet that supports, and levels the cabinet. This tool is usually only used to undercut doors or door jambs for flooring installations.
If you have any questions concerning this you may PM me. I am a carpenter/ cabinet installer with over 35 years of exp in construction.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 18,308
Likes: 21
From: Marlton. Increasing performance one speeding ticket at a time! NJ
This is a specialty tool, and is rather expensive to buy. I have seen them, and used them, but not in a long time.
Rather than use one of these to cut back a toe kick on a cabinet, you would be better off cutting your wood or ceramic tile up to the toe kick, and then using a shoe molding to cover any gap you may have there. REMEMBER, alot of times the installer shims the front of the cabinets to get them level, and if you undercut the toe kick of the cabinets, you will cut away the part of the cabinet that supports, and levels the cabinet. This tool is usually only used to undercut doors or door jambs for flooring installations.
If you have any questions concerning this you may PM me. I am a carpenter/ cabinet installer with over 35 years of exp in construction.
Rather than use one of these to cut back a toe kick on a cabinet, you would be better off cutting your wood or ceramic tile up to the toe kick, and then using a shoe molding to cover any gap you may have there. REMEMBER, alot of times the installer shims the front of the cabinets to get them level, and if you undercut the toe kick of the cabinets, you will cut away the part of the cabinet that supports, and levels the cabinet. This tool is usually only used to undercut doors or door jambs for flooring installations.
If you have any questions concerning this you may PM me. I am a carpenter/ cabinet installer with over 35 years of exp in construction.
I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong) they are called undercut saws. As Ralphyboy mentioned, they are primarily used for cutting existing molding. To be quite honest, I'm not certain that tool would even reach into the tow kick area.
Run the tile up to the cabinet and install the cove base(?) to cover up fit.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 936
Likes: 6
From: Hamburg PA
I understand.....
This is the saw i think Ralphboy was talking about....
Jamb Saw: http://www.tiletool.net/812.jpg
this is the saw i am looking for:
toe kick saw: http://www.tiletool.net/785.jpg
there is a difference....
Rick
This is the saw i think Ralphboy was talking about....
Jamb Saw: http://www.tiletool.net/812.jpg
this is the saw i am looking for:
toe kick saw: http://www.tiletool.net/785.jpg
there is a difference....
Rick
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,325
Likes: 0
From: You can't get there from here NJ
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong) they are called undercut saws. As Ralphyboy mentioned, they are primarily used for cutting existing molding. To be quite honest, I'm not certain that tool would even reach into the tow kick area.
Run the tile up to the cabinet and install the cove base(?) to cover up fit.
Actually, you are correct. The motor housing of the saw is vertical, like a router, and the blade does not extend that far out from this. I doubt if it would reach the toe kick because it would hit the front of the cabinets first, since the whole unit is about 8 to 10 inches tall ( I think).
Shoe molding is the term for the small molding that covers the gap at the baseboard and the flooring. It is about 3/4 inch high and 1/2 inch wide.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,325
Likes: 0
From: You can't get there from here NJ
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I understand.....
This is the saw i think Ralphboy was talking about....
Jamb Saw: http://www.tiletool.net/812.jpg
this is the saw i am looking for:
toe kick saw: http://www.tiletool.net/785.jpg
there is a difference....
Rick
This is the saw i think Ralphboy was talking about....
Jamb Saw: http://www.tiletool.net/812.jpg
this is the saw i am looking for:
toe kick saw: http://www.tiletool.net/785.jpg
there is a difference....
Rick
You are correct. The first image is the saw I was referring to. It is designed to undercut doors, and vertical door jambs where it can be pushed right up against the material to be cut.However, the second one would still not allow you to get under the cabinet far enough ( look at how the blade and the shaft to the motor housing is oriented). Also, as I mentioned, you don't want to cut the shims or the base of the cabinet, or it will drop down and throw them out of level. It would be so much easier to use the shoe molding, and it would still give a clean, neat apppearance.
Last edited by Ralphyboy; Jul 27, 2009 at 08:13 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,600
Likes: 88
From: Springfield PA
Philly 'Burbs Events Coordinator
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,087
Likes: 4
From: granville mass
hen we re-did our kitchen the boss wanted to keep the tile, now she's changed her mind, and I don't know how to deal with what's there. I can get the old tile and thin-set off the bulk of the floor, but what do you do with the pieces that go under the cabinets?
If I break the tile up to and under the cabinet, I'm worried about not having proper support for the granite like someone posted above....
mk
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,325
Likes: 0
From: You can't get there from here NJ
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I am a union carpenter too ( 24 years in local 620 Madison, NJ). Unless your brother installs wood flooring for a living he will not have one of these saws, since they are useless for anything else, and are not cheap.
How would you handle re-tiling a floor where the tile goes under the cabinets? W
hen we re-did our kitchen the boss wanted to keep the tile, now she's changed her mind, and I don't know how to deal with what's there. I can get the old tile and thin-set off the bulk of the floor, but what do you do with the pieces that go under the cabinets?
If I break the tile up to and under the cabinet, I'm worried about not having proper support for the granite like someone posted above....
mk
hen we re-did our kitchen the boss wanted to keep the tile, now she's changed her mind, and I don't know how to deal with what's there. I can get the old tile and thin-set off the bulk of the floor, but what do you do with the pieces that go under the cabinets?
If I break the tile up to and under the cabinet, I'm worried about not having proper support for the granite like someone posted above....
mk
To retile a floor, chip up the old tile, and use a brick chisel ( large flat blade) to break tile right against the toe kick of the cabinet. If you see that any shims are knocked out, use new wood cedar shakes to slide under the base of the cabinet to hold them level.Score the edge against the cabinet with a utility knife and break it off. Then tile up to the cabinet as close as you can get. You can use scraps of tile as a base molding against the toe kick, or shoe molding as I mentioned. However, on the sides of the cabinet where there is no toe kick, a tile base doesn't look good ( no finished top edge, unless you use a bullnose tile which has a radiused or rounded over egde). Shoe molding is usually used since it is less noticeable.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 14,639
Likes: 39
From: Winston-Salem North Carolina
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Yes I'm an electrician, but my father was a remodeling contractor.(50+years) This is the method he alwas used, when I remodled my first floor, its the method I used. Shoe molding is very useful. In most new construction, its the method used.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,600
Likes: 88
From: Springfield PA
Philly 'Burbs Events Coordinator
How would you handle re-tiling a floor where the tile goes under the cabinets? W
hen we re-did our kitchen the boss wanted to keep the tile, now she's changed her mind, and I don't know how to deal with what's there. I can get the old tile and thin-set off the bulk of the floor, but what do you do with the pieces that go under the cabinets?
If I break the tile up to and under the cabinet, I'm worried about not having proper support for the granite like someone posted above....
mk
hen we re-did our kitchen the boss wanted to keep the tile, now she's changed her mind, and I don't know how to deal with what's there. I can get the old tile and thin-set off the bulk of the floor, but what do you do with the pieces that go under the cabinets?
If I break the tile up to and under the cabinet, I'm worried about not having proper support for the granite like someone posted above....
mk
I am a union carpenter too ( 24 years in local 620 Madison, NJ). Unless your brother installs wood flooring for a living he will not have one of these saws, since they are useless for anything else, and are not cheap.
To retile a floor, chip up the old tile, and use a brick chisel ( large flat blade) to break tile right against the toe kick of the cabinet. If you see that any shims are knocked out, use new wood cedar shakes to slide under the base of the cabinet to hold them level.Score the edge against the cabinet with a utility knife and break it off. Then tile up to the cabinet as close as you can get. You can use scraps of tile as a base molding against the toe kick, or shoe molding as I mentioned. However, on the sides of the cabinet where there is no toe kick, a tile base doesn't look good ( no finished top edge, unless you use a bullnose tile which has a radiused or rounded over egde). Shoe molding is usually used since it is less noticeable.
To retile a floor, chip up the old tile, and use a brick chisel ( large flat blade) to break tile right against the toe kick of the cabinet. If you see that any shims are knocked out, use new wood cedar shakes to slide under the base of the cabinet to hold them level.Score the edge against the cabinet with a utility knife and break it off. Then tile up to the cabinet as close as you can get. You can use scraps of tile as a base molding against the toe kick, or shoe molding as I mentioned. However, on the sides of the cabinet where there is no toe kick, a tile base doesn't look good ( no finished top edge, unless you use a bullnose tile which has a radiused or rounded over egde). Shoe molding is usually used since it is less noticeable.
Last edited by Rex Ruby; Jul 28, 2009 at 09:53 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,325
Likes: 0
From: You can't get there from here NJ
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Just to add, instead of a manual brick chisel method rent a hammer drill from HD with a tile chisel in it and use the hammer only part of the tool. The demo will go a lot easier, leave a cleaner surface to install the new tile and it would be easier to get a clean edge at the toe kick, leaving the existing tile under the cabinets. Only do a few feet of the cabinet edge at a time then make sure that is supported before continuing. If you'$re doing another tile floor use the poly fortified thin set at HD costs about $29- 30 a bag, great stuff. (NOT the $13 a bag stuff)
The modified thin set has additives to make it stickier, and more flexible which makes it less prone to cracks or weak spots. It can even be used over existing tile if it is solid, like where there is a mud job ( wire lath and cement) with no cracks or loose tile.It is worth every penny, and eliminates problems later on.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,087
Likes: 4
From: granville mass
Thanks guys, never thought of the hammer drill.
My plan was to just run an air line up from the garage and use a chisel bit on the air chisle.
Yes, I will be re-tiling.
It is set over the existing tile, so I'll just break up to the edge and some how fake it out/trim it so it looks right.
I put the existing tile over thinset, so don't think I can tile over the existing tile, though all the tile are tight after 15 years.
Sorry to the OP for stealing this tread.
mike
My plan was to just run an air line up from the garage and use a chisel bit on the air chisle.
Yes, I will be re-tiling.
It is set over the existing tile, so I'll just break up to the edge and some how fake it out/trim it so it looks right.
I put the existing tile over thinset, so don't think I can tile over the existing tile, though all the tile are tight after 15 years.
Sorry to the OP for stealing this tread.
mike
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,600
Likes: 88
From: Springfield PA
Philly 'Burbs Events Coordinator
Just to add, instead of a manual brick chisel method rent a hammer drill from HD with a tile chisel in it and use the hammer only part of the tool. The demo will go a lot easier, leave a cleaner surface to install the new tile and it would be easier to get a clean edge at the toe kick, leaving the existing tile under the cabinets. Only do a few feet of the cabinet edge at a time then make sure that is supported before continuing. If you'$re doing another tile floor use the poly fortified thin set at HD costs about $29- 30 a bag, great stuff. (NOT the $13 a bag stuff)
Thanks guys, never thought of the hammer drill.
My plan was to just run an air line up from the garage and use a chisel bit on the air chisle.
Yes, I will be re-tiling.
It is set over the existing tile, so I'll just break up to the edge and some how fake it out/trim it so it looks right.
I put the existing tile over thinset, so don't think I can tile over the existing tile, though all the tile are tight after 15 years.
Sorry to the OP for stealing this tread.
mike
My plan was to just run an air line up from the garage and use a chisel bit on the air chisle.
Yes, I will be re-tiling.
It is set over the existing tile, so I'll just break up to the edge and some how fake it out/trim it so it looks right.
I put the existing tile over thinset, so don't think I can tile over the existing tile, though all the tile are tight after 15 years.
Sorry to the OP for stealing this tread.
mike
