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As far as settling? I' say about once around the block. There really isn't anything that needs to settle, other than from having it jacked up.
When the spring moves, a point near the end like where the bolt pad contacts moves in an arc. When you push up on the spring to adjust the bolt, then lower it back down, the pad contacts the arm in a different location than where it sits with the car weight on it. You have to then drive it a while to let the pad slowly squirm to a neutral position. Until then, the pad is kind of bunched up and results in a higher ride height.
It takes a while, a few hundred miles total, but most of it happens in the first couple of hundred miles.
When the spring moves, a point near the end like where the bolt pad contacts moves in an arc. When you push up on the spring to adjust the bolt, then lower it back down, the pad contacts the arm in a different location than where it sits with the car weight on it. You have to then drive it a while to let the pad slowly squirm to a neutral position. Until then, the pad is kind of bunched up and results in a higher ride height.
It takes a while, a few hundred miles total, but most of it happens in the first couple of hundred miles.
I learn something new every day on this forum. LOL
When the spring moves, a point near the end like where the bolt pad contacts moves in an arc. When you push up on the spring to adjust the bolt, then lower it back down, the pad contacts the arm in a different location than where it sits with the car weight on it. You have to then drive it a while to let the pad slowly squirm to a neutral position. Until then, the pad is kind of bunched up and results in a higher ride height.
It takes a while, a few hundred miles total, but most of it happens in the first couple of hundred miles.
I have been wanting to raise my C5 a small amount. Right now, it's lowered on the stock bolts (all the way down) and driving around the South Sound roads and city streets is a pain with all of the local speed bumps and poor roads. Parking lots are a PITA too.
What I don't know is whether or not I should return the car to stock height and then drop it about 3/4" or simply raise it up to where I want it. How would that work given how the bolt and pad contact each other??
I have been wanting to raise my C5 a small amount. Right now, it's lowered on the stock bolts (all the way down) and driving around the South Sound roads and city streets is a pain with all of the local speed bumps and poor roads. Parking lots are a PITA too.
What I don't know is whether or not I should return the car to stock height and then drop it about 3/4" or simply raise it up to where I want it. How would that work given how the bolt and pad contact each other??
When I was trying to adjust my ride height, there were several threads saying that despite turning the bolts, the ride height didn't change. Strange, I thought, but I found that to also be the case with my car. I turned the bolts, dropped it down, drove it around the block, and was at the same height. Turned the bolts some more, drove around the block, STILL the same ride height. Turned the bolts a little more, and it all of a sudden it dropped a lot. Way more than I wanted, so I put the bolts back to their original position. When I did that, the ride height instantly returned to stock, plus a hair more. That makes sense because I think the geometry makes the pad contact the arm in the swing of the arc that causes a higher height than it will equalize to.
I ended up using the "one turn = 1/4 inch" rule, which worked close enough. I think if you have to go all the way back up to the OEM ride height, wait for it to settle, then lower and wait for it to settle again, it's a much longer process than just figuring out how much higher you want it and just turning the bolts that amount, letting it settle, and then you can make some fine adjustments based on how much height change you actually get per full turn of the bolt.
It's hard to describe, they don't look torn, just off center. So I wonder what they were like when new?
i just went and had a look at the 2 spares I have. The pads are a hard material. Sort of a 3 layer sandwich, and the inner layers appear to be rubber of some sort. The part that rides on the lower arm is like plastic. Both that I have are off center. The one that I have that is on center, is bent and I had to cut it to remove it.
Anyway, if you turn the bolt 1/2 turn, the part sits on the control arm wrong, and that is likely why the car doesn't lower. So a full turn woud be wise.
I actually put some antisieze on the control arm to help it slide.
i wonder what the c6 parts look like. And even he new c7? I assume they still use the leaf spring setup?
I think it's really sad that you can't buy new GM parts....someone has to make them....they come in new springs when you buy them.
I wonder if a shot of silicone on the rubber pads wouldn't help them squirm into position faster and reduce the lateral tension placed on them as they reposition after lowering.
Those off center pads in the picture look like they never slid over and just stretched the rubber instead. I assume those are from a lowered car.
The one with the pad centered was off my car. Drivers side. It was frozen in place, as well as bent. I have no idea if someone else had lowered the car before I bought it. The other two were on a Z06 spring I purchased. So who knows.
When my C6 needed an alignment a couple yrs ago, I checked with the Corvette shop in Puyallup (that closed since) and with a friend of mine who owns UP Garage (a mostly Nissan tuner shop, but the owner had a C5 at the time). They both recommended http://www.kimballsalignmentandbrakecenter.com/ very strongly.
Kimballs was booked 2 weeks out when I needed the alignment, so I asked my source if they had a 2nd choice I should go to instead of waiting. Their answer was: Kimball's.
Tell them you have a Vette when you schedule. They have one guy who is fairly known in the South Sound for being very good at what he does and who spent the time explaining a few things to me after finishing working on my car. I would definitely go there again.
When my C6 needed an alignment a couple yrs ago, I checked with the Corvette shop in Puyallup (that closed since) and with a friend of mine who owns UP Garage (a mostly Nissan tuner shop, but the owner had a C5 at the time). They both recommended http://www.kimballsalignmentandbrakecenter.com/ very strongly.
Kimballs was booked 2 weeks out when I needed the alignment, so I asked my source if they had a 2nd choice I should go to instead of waiting. Their answer was: Kimball's.
Tell them you have a Vette when you schedule. They have one guy who is fairly known in the South Sound for being very good at what he does and who spent the time explaining a few things to me after finishing working on my car. I would definitely go there again.
You know-I was thinking about having Kimballs do my alignment. I have been there before with a previous car. They were the only shop in the area that would install an adjustable ball joint in my Acura. I might just go with them-we'll see.
I've only driven my vette 55 miles since the install, so I'll give it a little bit longer.