por-15
#1
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por-15
I think i read where you can shoot the stuff, am i correct? i know there are alot of people who have used it so i just want an honest opinion. they sell it with a brush, which concerns me alot. is por-15 pretty leveling, or does it show all the brush marks if you paint it with the brush? i know it seems like a great product, but do you have to spray to make it look like a good product?
#2
Le Mans Master
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It says you can shoot it. It won't leave brush marks if you follow the directions.
#5
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You can shoot it but you will need a special mask and ventallation. READ THE CAUTIONS. THIS STUFF IS REAL NASTY WITH FUMES.
I used a dense foam roller and it worked super. No marks what so ever, it looks sprayed. My friend used a brush and to my amazement it looked just as good as sprayed also.
This stuff drys very slow according to the humidity and is very thin and self levelling.
I used a dense foam roller and it worked super. No marks what so ever, it looks sprayed. My friend used a brush and to my amazement it looked just as good as sprayed also.
This stuff drys very slow according to the humidity and is very thin and self levelling.
#6
Tech Contributor
Contains isocyanides you need a fresh air system to spray it. Respirators will not filter out isocyanides. I know a guy who didn't read the label and ended up in the hospital ER. Brushing is ok, use a fan if you want to blow the vapors away from you. Will self level. Need to top coat or it will weather in UV light.
#8
Le Mans Master
Like Gary says .. best to topcoat it.
After the POR gets tacky (partial cured), you spray a dusting
of your favorite enamel onto it. This creates a bonding layer
for an enamel topcoat, while allowing the POR to still cure.
It needs water vapor to get in to cure. The next day, you are
all set to spray on a beautiful layer of whatever you choose.
I used Krylon semi-black spray bombs for most stuff ... looks great.
After the POR gets tacky (partial cured), you spray a dusting
of your favorite enamel onto it. This creates a bonding layer
for an enamel topcoat, while allowing the POR to still cure.
It needs water vapor to get in to cure. The next day, you are
all set to spray on a beautiful layer of whatever you choose.
I used Krylon semi-black spray bombs for most stuff ... looks great.
#10
Burning Brakes
I love the stuff, use the prep and do it right! It has awesome leveling properties & will look like glass on good surface. I have inadvertantly banged it wrenching and it hasnt chipped.
#11
Le Mans Master
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You can spray it. The even have a solvent to dilute the stuff for spraying. Just remember to have a good air system to do it. This stuff will make you sick if sprayed indoors. I personally brushed the stuff on my car. I can tell you this the paint is so good it survived a week in Katrina water without so much as flinching. It looks just as good as when I put it on the car. I plan on using this stuff on every metal piece I can get my hands on.
#12
Burning Brakes
Not to long ago I read up on a comparison test between POR-15 and Eastwoods Rust-encapsulator, I found it through Google. It was very interesting, At the end the tester does state that both products work very well but Eastwoods came out better. POR-15 was prone to rust creeping under and lifting the coating from unpainted areas, you can fix this problem by making sure you coat everything completly. Also eastwood sells a spray bomb of there product for ease of use. I did not check how much the products cost but for me this would be the deciding factor, Also the spraybomb is interesting,,,
#13
Burning Brakes
Contains isocyanides you need a fresh air system to spray it. Respirators will not filter out isocyanides. I know a guy who didn't read the label and ended up in the hospital ER. Brushing is ok, use a fan if you want to blow the vapors away from you. Will self level. Need to top coat or it will weather in UV light.
First of all it is "isocyanates" that you refer to. Not "isocyanides".
And OV (carbon) cartridge respirators DO filter isocyanates. Also, POR-15 does not contain isocyanates. Hardeners in 2K paint systems are what contain isocyanates.
The 3 most common isocyanates found in 2K hardeners are:
HEXAMETHYLENE DIISOCYANATE
ISOPHRONE DIISOCYANATE
DIPHENYLMETHANE DIISOCYANATE
Here is a link to the 2007 3M Respirator Selection Guide that I have downloaded:
http://home.austin.rr.com/lt1/3mRespGuide.pdf
As you can see, 3M's recommended cartridge for these isocyanates is OV/N95. (Organic Vapor with particulate pre-filter)
However it states either "Warning Unknown" or "Poor Warning". What they are saying here is, when the cartridge is saturated you can't tell by smell because isocyanates have no odor.
Due to the danger of the isocyanates and the poor warning combination, supplied air respirators are the only recommended way to go.
If you are going to use the OV cartridge while shooting 2K paints, I would use new cartridges everyday and make sure your mask fits tightly. Also make sure you get the best ventilation possible in your garage or spraybooth to keep the concentrations as low as possible.
The fact is that it can be done and it is done all the time. I have done it before but intend to get a supplied air system before my next paint job with 2K paints.
Roger
Last edited by roger55; 02-23-2007 at 11:43 PM.
#15
Burning Brakes
Not quite right.
First of all it is "isocyanates" that you refer to. Not "isocyanides".
And OV (carbon) cartridge respirators DO filter isocyanates. Also, POR-15 does not contain isocyanates. Hardeners in 2K paint systems are what contain isocyanates.
The 3 most common isocyanates found in 2K hardeners are:
HEXAMETHYLENE DIISOCYANATE
ISOPHRONE DIISOCYANATE
DIPHENYLMETHANE DIISOCYANATE
Here is a link to the 2007 3M Respirator Selection Guide that I have downloaded:
http://home.austin.rr.com/lt1/3mRespGuide.pdf
As you can see, 3M's recommended cartridge for these isocyanates is OV/N95. (Organic Vapor with particulate pre-filter)
However it states either "Warning Unknown" or "Poor Warning". What they are saying here is, when the cartridge is saturated you can't tell by smell because isocyanates have no odor.
Due to the danger of the isocyanates and the poor warning combination, supplied air respirators are the only recommended way to go.
If you are going to use the OV cartridge while shooting 2K paints, I would use new cartridges everyday and make sure your mask fits tightly. Also make sure you get the best ventilation possible in your garage or spraybooth to keep the concentrations as low as possible.
The fact is that it can be done and it is done all the time. I have done it before but intend to get a supplied air system before my next paint job with 2K paints.
Roger
First of all it is "isocyanates" that you refer to. Not "isocyanides".
And OV (carbon) cartridge respirators DO filter isocyanates. Also, POR-15 does not contain isocyanates. Hardeners in 2K paint systems are what contain isocyanates.
The 3 most common isocyanates found in 2K hardeners are:
HEXAMETHYLENE DIISOCYANATE
ISOPHRONE DIISOCYANATE
DIPHENYLMETHANE DIISOCYANATE
Here is a link to the 2007 3M Respirator Selection Guide that I have downloaded:
http://home.austin.rr.com/lt1/3mRespGuide.pdf
As you can see, 3M's recommended cartridge for these isocyanates is OV/N95. (Organic Vapor with particulate pre-filter)
However it states either "Warning Unknown" or "Poor Warning". What they are saying here is, when the cartridge is saturated you can't tell by smell because isocyanates have no odor.
Due to the danger of the isocyanates and the poor warning combination, supplied air respirators are the only recommended way to go.
If you are going to use the OV cartridge while shooting 2K paints, I would use new cartridges everyday and make sure your mask fits tightly. Also make sure you get the best ventilation possible in your garage or spraybooth to keep the concentrations as low as possible.
The fact is that it can be done and it is done all the time. I have done it before but intend to get a supplied air system before my next paint job with 2K paints.
Roger
#16
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I have used the POR-15 a good bit and it is awsome stuff, very tuff. As stated above follow the directions and prep and its good to go. It is UV sensitive so i always paint a topcoat over it. But it really does self level with a brush and looks just as good as being sprayed on. Only thing is use a brush that does not lose it's bristles easly. I had some cheepo brushes and the bristles kept coming of on the parts in the paint .
Two other tips, wear a long sleave shirt and gloves to keep this stuff off of your skin. Once it dries on you it's there for days! Second is use it in a well ventilated area even when brushing or rolling it on. The fumes can make you light headed and sick. I use a 3M mask now whenever I use it.
Good Luck.
Two other tips, wear a long sleave shirt and gloves to keep this stuff off of your skin. Once it dries on you it's there for days! Second is use it in a well ventilated area even when brushing or rolling it on. The fumes can make you light headed and sick. I use a 3M mask now whenever I use it.
Good Luck.
#17
Guys, you would all be much better off to use an epoxy that you can buy online or from your local jobber ( auto paint store ).. POR is supposed to go over rusted surfaces, cleaned and prepped rusty surfaces, but rust no less.. I have stripped the junk off of cars I was restoring for customers more than once, and it is just trash IMO.. It does not have that great of adhesion and will lift and I have also seen rust come back thru it as well on parts my customers had coated it with.. I have also seen it used as a primer on a car, that started to delaminate.. why?? it went over non rusted surface that was prepped with 36 grit and still failed with all that tooth to bite into
Floor pans, rear ends, entire undercarriages, I have seen this product fail..
I am not in any way trying to rain on the parade, but I dont like to see people spend money on products that wont last.. Of course there are going to be some who swear by it, but epoxy would be a much better choice and it can be brushed on as well as sprayed.. No Iso's in it either
Its just another point of view is all
Floor pans, rear ends, entire undercarriages, I have seen this product fail..
I am not in any way trying to rain on the parade, but I dont like to see people spend money on products that wont last.. Of course there are going to be some who swear by it, but epoxy would be a much better choice and it can be brushed on as well as sprayed.. No Iso's in it either
Its just another point of view is all
#18
Burning Brakes
Guys, you would all be much better off to use an epoxy that you can buy online or from your local jobber ( auto paint store ).. POR is supposed to go over rusted surfaces, cleaned and prepped rusty surfaces, but rust no less.. I have stripped the junk off of cars I was restoring for customers more than once, and it is just trash IMO.. It does not have that great of adhesion and will lift and I have also seen rust come back thru it as well on parts my customers had coated it with.. I have also seen it used as a primer on a car, that started to delaminate.. why?? it went over non rusted surface that was prepped with 36 grit and still failed with all that tooth to bite into
Floor pans, rear ends, entire undercarriages, I have seen this product fail..
I am not in any way trying to rain on the parade, but I dont like to see people spend money on products that wont last.. Of course there are going to be some who swear by it, but epoxy would be a much better choice and it can be brushed on as well as sprayed.. No Iso's in it either
Its just another point of view is all
Floor pans, rear ends, entire undercarriages, I have seen this product fail..
I am not in any way trying to rain on the parade, but I dont like to see people spend money on products that wont last.. Of course there are going to be some who swear by it, but epoxy would be a much better choice and it can be brushed on as well as sprayed.. No Iso's in it either
Its just another point of view is all
#19
I was not speaking of a rattle can anything.. I was speaking of 2k epoxy that you can buy online or at your local paint jobber.. It is designed to be sprayed, but you can brush on a frame if you so chose to
#20
Drifting
POR and Epoxy paint are for 2 entirely different applications in my opinion.
POR is a short term, and quick dress up coating designed to be applied over rust for certain applications and has very limited use in the restoration process. POR is good product to improve the undercarriage appearance of a driver quality car or as touch up on an older restoration, but should not be used on a quality restoration project to replace rust removal or conventional paint methods. Due to POR's limitations, it should not be relied upon to last the life of a restoration especially in difficult to access areas.
Epoxy is a very good choice for frames and undercarriage components during a restoration project where all parts are disassembled, cleaned, and painted. Epoxy will provide a durable surface as well as corrosion protection and excellent adhesion to clean steel for many years.
POR is a short term, and quick dress up coating designed to be applied over rust for certain applications and has very limited use in the restoration process. POR is good product to improve the undercarriage appearance of a driver quality car or as touch up on an older restoration, but should not be used on a quality restoration project to replace rust removal or conventional paint methods. Due to POR's limitations, it should not be relied upon to last the life of a restoration especially in difficult to access areas.
Epoxy is a very good choice for frames and undercarriage components during a restoration project where all parts are disassembled, cleaned, and painted. Epoxy will provide a durable surface as well as corrosion protection and excellent adhesion to clean steel for many years.