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Anyone else here using aircraft stripper to strip the vette? I've read several posts on the forum where corvette restorers (who have done this their whole life) have used aircraft stripper exclusively without any negative results. It was also recommended to me by another local corvette enthusiast. Stuff works great.
I used it quite a while ago, it was messy & smelly, but took off the paint very good, I'd use it again ,,,thing is to not let it sit on the paint too long once you get closer to the end of paint left on the car,,,rinse the surface thourghly to get any and all traces off,,use rubber gloves,, it burns your skin,,Good luck,,,Peace,,,Moosie
I used it on several motorcycles and on a Mustang i did once, scary, the paint slid off the car before I could get around to the other side with the spray bottle. Nekid car in under 30 minutes
The paint on my car was like 12 coats (including all the coats of primers/paint/clears). The Captn' Lee's didn't phase that at all, but I used Kleen Strip (Fiberglass safe) and that worked well. I had to leave it sit on for a couple hrs that's how thick it was. Two applications and it was done. No harm to the glass. I used Aircraft stripper on metal projects. It worked well, but I can't say it was like a miracle product or anything. I've had good luck with other strippers as well. A lot depends on the type of paint and thicknesses you're trying to take off.
The Captn' Lee's worked great in the door jambs when I got around to that point.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Bad Stuff
A friend stripped his 67 vert in his garage with aircraft stripper. The stuff worked great, but, it crystallized his wife's lace curtains inside the house! This stuff needs to be done outside, away from the house.
I used some paintstripper that was safe for fiberglass and lacquer thinner with 00 steel wool when I did my 72. It took longer, but, my wife wasn't yelling at me
I used Tal-Strip to remove 2 layers and it worked great. No problems so far. The only area it did not clean was the front bumber cover. It must have something to do with the flexing agent, cause the paint would not come off and it distorted the urethane.
I used this stuff many years ago. Worked very well to strip a metal bodied car. Smells bad, very toxic (Wear HEAVY gloves, respirator too, to be safe) use this stuff in a very well vented area away from things that are dear and precious to you.
Brushed it on, let it sit, then pressure washed the hell out of it. It worked great. I used soap and water for the final wash after...and then more pressure washer. Works great on undercoating!
careful with that stuff itll attack the glass (fiberglass) if left on too long!
any metal part left unclean will corrode overnite.
I did my camaro with it years ago and had to repaintafter finding spots that didnt rinse well and the stripper ate through the metal after a year .
wear a good respirator too!
I purchased some stripper (Kleenstrip for fiberglass) intending to do the whole car; glad I didn't. Many parts of repaired 'glass that was exposed under the crummy black paint job. That stripper would've leeched into the fibers and who knows how long or even if it would come out. I would'nt hesitate to use stripper on metal parts. Wet your hands before you put on the rubber gloves; if that stripper gets on your dry hands, they'll burn all the way to the nearest faucet.
I used it.
I think it was called Tal 3 or somethng like that.
I used it becasue the shop that was doing the painting and whihc works only on Corvettes recommended it. The owner has been in business for 27 years in same location and owns several Corvetttes himself and works only on Corvettes in his body shop , so I believed him.
I had no problems
Kurt
If you run a single line of masking tape along the body gaps (door to fender, ,hood to fender, etc) cover the gap so the tape covers both edges?? When you strip, it won't gunk up on the insides of the doors or puddle on the sill. What you are left with is a small paint edge that you can work in smaller sections and eliminate the problem of dried stripper residue when you start working the door jambs/frames etc.....picked that tidbit up from a guy that did it for years....
I have always liked a final wipe with lacquer thinner after stripper , just seems to do a much cleaner job, its a little messy (like the stripper isn't) but it really wipes clean...
Good info guys. I'll leave the link here for a while, but move it to Paint\Body for hopefully, some more advice.
Now that this thread has been moved from an older generation forum, I would like to comment that using chemical stripper on 84 and newer SMC panels will ruin them. Don't do it, you will total the car as it will never except paint again.
Roger
Last edited by roger55; Mar 27, 2007 at 10:54 PM.
Reason: grammer
It worked great for me too. I only used it for my hardtop which had many coats of paint. It's very aggresive and you have to make sure to neutralize it before it can get to the fiberglass. It definitley will soften the fiberglass if it gets the chance. Some brands say to clean it with water but acetone or laquer thinner and then soap and water worked for me. Others have had problems with it screwing up the new paint. Plenty of time before priming and some days in the sun would help to make sure it all gets out. I wouldn't want to prime it right away. Epoxy primer over it would be some insurance. If one is willing to assume the risks then I say go for it.