Paint/Body Corvette Materials, Techniques, and How To

Safe degreeser, cleaner?

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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 08:18 PM
  #1  
Frankenvette 63's Avatar
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Default Safe degreeser, cleaner?

What should I use to clean & degreese my hood (some bare glass areas) prior to priming?
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 09:15 PM
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I've used PPG DX-330 Wax & Grease Remover and never had a problem.
On the last Vette I primered, I used PPG Omni MX-190. I swear it's the same stuff only a lot cheaper.
Be certain to give it plenty of dry time.

Do not use lacquer thinner under any circumstances.

Roger
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 09:22 PM
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Thank you Roger, I'll look for it tomorrow!
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 10:39 PM
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Jim, not sure how much grease your hood has suffered the effects of, but I have seen Vette hoods on the underside have trouble with grease being driven up into the fibers, by the fan etc. Roger is correct that DX330 (or its equivalent) is the proper wax and grease remover prior to painting or priming but if you have grease that has permeated the underside, DX 330 may not be strong enough. PPG DX 440 is the stronger version of wax and grease remover. I always have at least a gallon of each in my shop. Both serve a purpose although 440 is overkill with the normal prep just prior to prime or paint. I always found that avoiding paint problems is easier than solving them.-Jim
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 10:52 PM
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I just wanted to ask a related question since I am going to be in the same situation except my car is stripped to bare SMC. Is the grease and wax remover to strong for the bare glass ? I had seen some threads earlier that suggested acetone on the bare glass as a final cleaner before priming.
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 11:09 PM
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No neither DX440 nor DX330 are too strong for bare glass. I have tried all sorts of chemicals in my attempts to remove grease and/or silicones. I have tried slow thinners and acetone and some other strong stuff that may not be too healthy but found DX 440 to be the best. One of the reasons that I like it is that it stays wetter longer than some of the other chemicals, and that is why it beads up and is a bit slower to evaporate. It stays wet so that it can actually do its work of soaking out the grease and or wax and then since it is wet it allows you to remove the bad stuff suspended so to speak in the wetted surface. Everyone has their own solutions to problems so I cannot say acetone does not work, just that my own experiences has been pretty favorable with DX440.-Jim
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 08:36 PM
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We mostly use the House of Kolor KC-20 post sanding prep but have used most of the other final preps without issues. Just be sure that it is designed for use in the final prep stage to avoid issues.
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