Paint/Body Corvette Materials, Techniques, and How To

Time between Prime and Paint

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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 06:02 PM
  #1  
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Default Time between Prime and Paint

Hi Guys...How long will I have after spraying 2k primer filler before I have to paint..Pretty sure it will be a week before I can BC/CC after I prime and sand...Right now I'm sanding the clear coat off my 86 (whats left of it) with 150 and will finish up with 500 then Prime...no bodywork needed..Just paint..But I know it will be at least a week inbetween..Is this O.K.
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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Happydad
Hi Guys...How long will I have after spraying 2k primer filler before I have to paint..Pretty sure it will be a week before I can BC/CC after I prime and sand...Right now I'm sanding the clear coat off my 86 (whats left of it) with 150 and will finish up with 500 then Prime...no bodywork needed..Just paint..But I know it will be at least a week inbetween..Is this O.K.
A week is more than enough time.
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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 11:32 PM
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If you sand it before painting, you can wait as long as you want.
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 07:27 AM
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2k primers are made for build up and block sanding. If you are only putting it on as an undercoat, Then why not forego the 2k and put an epoxy sealer on the car before painting? But the previous posters are right. Seldom is the problem someone not waiting long enough for the primer to dry, it is that they let it wait too long before painting. Once the primer or sealer hardens, 18 hours or longer, you will have to rescuff with a scotch brite or 400 grit sandpaper.Otherwise youre new paint won't stick.
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 07:42 AM
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Use the manufacturer data sheets for the answer. You should have a data sheet for each paint product you are using. These will tell you the correct grit sandpaper, compatibility, mix ratios, drying and recoat times, etc. They are available at your paint store or usually on the mfr. web site.
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 11:31 AM
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If you are sanding it all the way down, you would be best to seal it with epoxy first, then spray your 2k..

Once the 2k is blocked in your garge, you will have an almost indefinite window as to when you get around to painting it.. as long as it stays indoors.. It cant be driven or that changes everything..

You can topcoat most 2k primers within 6-8 hours, some faster.. Its best to let it set for a few days and gas off and shrink.. Also most of your 2k's dont reach full cure for about 3 days
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 06:20 AM
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Thanks Everyone...I thought I didnt have to use epoxy primer on SMC..(For some reason I thought it was for metal)....Will the epoxy Prime make everything stick better?? If so epoxy first I will, then 2K
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 10:21 AM
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I think you will find a number of guys on here that believe epoxy is a wise starting point when refinishing your Corvette. Any surface be it metal or fiberglass or SMC needs an adhesive primer and epoxy seems to work really well. So to answer your question it will make everything stick better. There are several epoxy primers although the only one I am familiar with is the PPG line DPLF which I have had good success with. I am sure there are other good products and you may talk to your local paint store and they may be able to help you with the products and the product literature which will tell you all of the particulars of how to mix and spray and recoat times etc. Remember if you use DPLF and use the 401 hardener to allow the mix to sit for recommended induction period before spraying-Good luck-Jim
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 10:33 PM
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if your sanding down to bare smc and/or fiberglass you have to polyester prime the cra first, block it with 180, then prime it with 2k type primer. then reblock with 320 then 400 then you base. it for going metallic you have to go atleast 600, or 800 grit or you scratches will show in the metallics.

and Jim, the 401 has no induction time, the 402 is 30 minutes. - Roger
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Hippiehead025
if your sanding down to bare smc and/or fiberglass you have to polyester prime the cra first, block it with 180, then prime it with 2k type primer. then reblock with 320 then 400 then you base. it for going metallic you have to go atleast 600, or 800 grit or you scratches will show in the metallics.

and Jim, the 401 has no induction time, the 402 is 30 minutes. - Roger

No, you don't HAVE to use polyester primer but certainly can be done the way you suggest with great results.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Hippiehead025
if your sanding down to bare smc and/or fiberglass you have to polyester prime the cra first, block it with 180, then prime it with 2k type primer. then reblock with 320 then 400 then you base. it for going metallic you have to go atleast 600, or 800 grit or you scratches will show in the metallics.

and Jim, the 401 has no induction time, the 402 is 30 minutes. - Roger
Roger- I think if you look at your product literature you will see on page 2 that 401 has 30 minute induction and 402 has no induction period. I have asked PPG reps why anyone would use 402 and they said it is used manily for touch up and body shops asked for a hardener that did not require induction. I have never run any tests with 402 and therefore have never endorsed it. It may be perfectly suitable though-Jim
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 11:34 PM
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ive used both, but my reps told me it was the other way around. i dont have a PPS sheet for it though
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 11:00 AM
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My local store said that you use the 401 if you are going over bare plastic. 402 if you are sealing a painted surface.
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