epoxy ???
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 46
From: winter haven florida
St. Jude Donor '12
epoxy ???
i am having my car media blasted in the next few weeks and want to know what epoxy ( type and brand ) to apply after the paint is removed and the body prep is done. i was going to gelcoat but have done enough research to realize the better choice will be epoxy. i am just unsure of what type and brand to go with. thanks for any help.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 87
From: bluff dale tx
i use only spi (southern polyurethane inc ). ppg,dupont and matrix all failed miserably . i use only epoxy and no 2k primers or polyesters. be careful blasting and do not blast the underside of hood/trunk,top deck. there is almost no resin over the fibers. this is the one i'm building now.
1957 restomod
http://www.streetrodding.com/index.c...ersCorner.list
1957 restomod
http://www.streetrodding.com/index.c...ersCorner.list
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 87
From: bluff dale tx
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm
this is the absolute best products i have found in 35 years. this site has a ton of information. spi is designed for this kind of work not slam bam production . it is far superior to ppg or dupont. i painted the 57 in dec and did not cut and buff until march just to test it. i had 0 shrinkage or dieback. good luck with it. let me know if i can help.
Barry Kives who owns the co is a vette guy also and can be reached anytime for help. super guy.
this is the absolute best products i have found in 35 years. this site has a ton of information. spi is designed for this kind of work not slam bam production . it is far superior to ppg or dupont. i painted the 57 in dec and did not cut and buff until march just to test it. i had 0 shrinkage or dieback. good luck with it. let me know if i can help.
Barry Kives who owns the co is a vette guy also and can be reached anytime for help. super guy.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 22
From: Yooperville MI
Epoxy primer is the best choice in my opinion.
I've used PPG DPLF and Transtar because they are available locally. Of the 2, I think PPG is a heavier body paint and provides a harder coating than Transtar. Each one has it's advantages, especially for the weekend warrior who works part time on a project and finds it difficult to work within the time constraints of some products. Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) offers an epoxy primer that many people rave about but I've never tried it.
I've used PPG DPLF and Transtar because they are available locally. Of the 2, I think PPG is a heavier body paint and provides a harder coating than Transtar. Each one has it's advantages, especially for the weekend warrior who works part time on a project and finds it difficult to work within the time constraints of some products. Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) offers an epoxy primer that many people rave about but I've never tried it.
- PPG is twice the cost of Transtar. Transtar pricing is in line with SPI.
- PPG and SPI have window times for recoat, Transtar does not. (a cost saving advantage.
- SPI warns against using over a soda blasted surface.
- PPG has a "non-neighbor friendly" odor for the home garage painter, Transtar isn't as bad.
- Transtar is compatible with all brands and types of topcoats.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Nanuet NY
A touch off topic with some unsolicited advice.
Had my '80 media blasted and have sanded it down, trying to find time to put on the epoxy. I chose Transtar, and am going to test rolling it on with the dense foam. If that works out I' may use their Roll It primer or all epoxy as porchdog recommends before bringing it to a shop for paint.
Pleases be aware that the media particles get EVERYWHERE. If I were doing it again, I would cover/seal the whole firewall and as many other places and things as possible. If water or air can find it's way into a crack or crevice, so will theses beads. I didn't remove my seats and interior because it got hot, and I got lazy... I should have. If you are going to drive the vehicle home, bring a pair of goggles and a mask. The dust from the media came out of everywhere as I drove.
It did make sanding easier, and also revealed cracks, holes and other areas that were bondoed to death and absolutely needed repair.
http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w...t=100_0333.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/100_0337.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/100_0335.jpg
Pictures are after blasting, Random Orbital sanding with 100 and then hand sanding with 150.
Good luck with your project!!
Ed
Had my '80 media blasted and have sanded it down, trying to find time to put on the epoxy. I chose Transtar, and am going to test rolling it on with the dense foam. If that works out I' may use their Roll It primer or all epoxy as porchdog recommends before bringing it to a shop for paint.
Pleases be aware that the media particles get EVERYWHERE. If I were doing it again, I would cover/seal the whole firewall and as many other places and things as possible. If water or air can find it's way into a crack or crevice, so will theses beads. I didn't remove my seats and interior because it got hot, and I got lazy... I should have. If you are going to drive the vehicle home, bring a pair of goggles and a mask. The dust from the media came out of everywhere as I drove.
It did make sanding easier, and also revealed cracks, holes and other areas that were bondoed to death and absolutely needed repair.
http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w...t=100_0333.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/100_0337.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/100_0335.jpg
Pictures are after blasting, Random Orbital sanding with 100 and then hand sanding with 150.
Good luck with your project!!
Ed
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 46
From: winter haven florida
St. Jude Donor '12
great info guys, this is what i was looking for. the entire car is stripped interior and all. the only thing not stripped is the suspension and i will be masking it off before the blast. the only original thing that is going back on the car is the marker lights. everything else will be brand new. i will be posting lots of pics in the future as i get closer to finishing it in a few months. thanks for all the info and help.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 46
From: winter haven florida
St. Jude Donor '12
the car has been blasted and came out very well. it uncovered a lot of cracks and small holes. i was amazed how much it uncovered. it will make things so much easier in the long run this way. now i can see what needs to be repaired and i can do it the right way. i am going to get the epoxy done next week. i will take pics as i go. thanks for the help guys.
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 87
From: bluff dale tx
type 6 acrylic is the softest . even still it can cause damage if not done right. remember that resin is only slightly harder than cured paint. i try to leave a thin layer of the orig primer. i then change to starblast and lower pressure and back off 2 ft or more. you can not use a home unit for acrylic. my set up is 1 14 in hose/38 nozzle and 185 cfm.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 46
From: winter haven florida
St. Jude Donor '12
the shop used acrylic beads and the blaster was very careful with the car. he test shot a few areas on the car with me there to make sure there would be no damage before i left the car with him. the owner of the shop did the blasting and is a true car guy. the results were great. i am also using spi products.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,352
Likes: 1
From: Westminster Maryland
When I bought my 68, it had been media blasted, but I don't know what was used. It had a coat of primer, which I took off in sanding and sight coating. I used Corrobond epoxy, at the recommendation of a car guy I know. I never used a 2 part epoxy primer, but I did great with it. It sands pretty hard (which is the whole point!), but it sands smooth. I sprayed it with HVLP, 1.4 nozzle, thined 5%. It really sealed things nicely. I do not profess to be a paint and body guy- I am learning as I go with my first vette. I can tell you it is great so far. The primer was $40 for a gallon of part a, a guart of b, and a gal of thinner. I got it from a local paint wholesaler. That's my $.02
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 772
Likes: 213
From: Auburn Ohio
Epoxy primer is the best choice in my opinion.
I've used PPG DPLF and Transtar because they are available locally. Of the 2, I think PPG is a heavier body paint and provides a harder coating than Transtar. Each one has it's advantages, especially for the weekend warrior who works part time on a project and finds it difficult to work within the time constraints of some products. Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) offers an epoxy primer that many people rave about but I've never tried it.
I've used PPG DPLF and Transtar because they are available locally. Of the 2, I think PPG is a heavier body paint and provides a harder coating than Transtar. Each one has it's advantages, especially for the weekend warrior who works part time on a project and finds it difficult to work within the time constraints of some products. Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) offers an epoxy primer that many people rave about but I've never tried it.
- PPG is twice the cost of Transtar. Transtar pricing is in line with SPI.
- PPG and SPI have window times for recoat, Transtar does not. (a cost saving advantage.
- SPI warns against using over a soda blasted surface.
- PPG has a "non-neighbor friendly" odor for the home garage painter, Transtar isn't as bad.
- Transtar is compatible with all brands and types of topcoats.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,092
Likes: 2
From: walpole ma
Hi folks. i jumped into this forum to see what everyone is doing with their cars.I see all this talk about epoxy.In our restoration shop we use epoxy on all metal cars on the bare metal(I have tried many types PPG transtar,standox,meddalion etc.).On the older vettes I strickly gelcoat. Granted, it adds more time to the job,but it is a much tougher product as long as you apply it properly and leave a recommended build thickness.When we do a corvette over, it always gets taken down to bare glass.I will not warranty a paint job that involves me putting a product on something existing.(factory primer etc.). I have soda blasted some ,chemically stripped some,sanded some and never had a problem with gelcoat.We use PPG and Standox products.Check out our website for reference to see some of our more recent workhttp://www.2ndgenrestorations.com
This is a very informative forum by the way.A lot of good info.
This really shows that there is more than one way to skin a cat and it is all good as long as the finished job comes out great.Good luck with everyones projects.
This is a very informative forum by the way.A lot of good info.
This really shows that there is more than one way to skin a cat and it is all good as long as the finished job comes out great.Good luck with everyones projects.
