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Has anyone ever used the Rust-Oleum 9100 DTM Epoxy Mastic on a car? The guy I bought my 65 from was in the process of using it on the car and swore up and down about it. He's done body work before (and painted cars) and said it did a great job on sealing the fibers.
The reason I'm asking is that I'm thinking about buying some to do my 58 with (sanded down to bare glass in some areas and some areas have been repaired) and was wondering if anyone had used it before or should I look in a different direction???
I attached a link to it on the MSC Direct website.
It may be fine but why take the chance of using a non automotive paint product on your project. Who knows about top coat compatibility, ie, maybe its fine for enamels but not anything else??? I really like the SPI products as well, their epoxy is top notch stuff and about the same price as that Rustoleum product.
corvettes never had gelcoat. spi epoxy is the closest thing to factory resign i have found. i use nothing but epoxy to surface them. gelcoat is weak and brittle without fiber.
corvettes never had gelcoat. spi epoxy is the closest thing to factory resign i have found. i use nothing but epoxy to surface them. gelcoat is weak and brittle without fiber.
I've done the Ecklers spray Gel Coat before but the SPI epoxy is much nicer to use, and builds almost the same. I shot some old fiberglass panels with both products, when they were flexed, the gel coat panels spider webbed and the SPI panels did not.
I've done the Ecklers spray Gel Coat before but the SPI epoxy is much nicer to use, and builds almost the same. I shot some old fiberglass panels with both products, when they were flexed, the gel coat panels spider webbed and the SPI panels did not.
thank you scott i usually get flamed for saying that. the 57 i'm doing was a mess. after body repairs i put 6 heavy coats of spi on it. one at a time with 24 hrs cure. it is 1 year old this month and is as nice as when first shot. no shrinkage or die back.
thank you scott i usually get flamed for saying that. the 57 i'm doing was a mess. after body repairs i put 6 heavy coats of spi on it. one at a time with 24 hrs cure. it is 1 year old this month and is as nice as when first shot. no shrinkage or die back.
My 58 is a mess also. I just came in from doing some more fiberglass work and I feel like I'm over my head but I'm not giving up.
i've worked on some pretty sad ones in my time but that one was very close to destroyed. it just kept getting worse as i blasted off layers. rebuilding the exhaust ports was a ton of fun.
That's bad but mine is worse. The front end was wrecked and being STUPID I jumped in and I pulled a Bubba. I should have came on here for advice before I started....I knew absolutely NOTHING about what I was doing.
When I bought the car the guy had some other front end parts and instead of going by the bonding strips (I know better now) I went to hacking and fiberglassing and taking back off and lining up again and so on. Well I'm about finished now and I'm hoping to get a shot of epoxy primer on it when it warms up (won't be long here in South MS!!!).
I'd attach pictures but I don't want to be laughed at!!!
i've worked on some pretty sad ones in my time but that one was very close to destroyed. it just kept getting worse as i blasted off layers. rebuilding the exhaust ports was a ton of fun.
My car was a drag car and the previous owner sanded the rear smooth and filled in the holes in the rear. How do I build the ridges up around the bumper holes and the exhaust holes?
i use wax paper to make my patches. it works better than release wax. you can make a buck from foam and cover it with cloth and resin. when set simple dig out the foam and glass the patch in.