89 Bob L

Can anyone offer suggestions on the following issue I have. The car is black and apparently has alot of wax build-up, and you can see water spots all over. How do you remove the build-up and remove the water spots AND not have swirls in the shine?? What brand polish/wax do you use, what is the best way to apply the cleaner/wax - by hand or by machine? How do you make the car shine without the swirls???

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated

roger55

I would wipe it down with a good wax and grease remover like PPG DX-330.
Then I would power buff it using a wool pad and 3M Finesse-It II. Then use 3M Hand Glaze.
Lots of different products out there that would work and everyone has their favorite way but I have had good luck doing it this way.

If you have never used a power buffer with a wool pad before, you will want to practice first. If you catch an edge, you can instantly buff right through the paint.

derek 91 vette

if you want to remove everything use DX 103

clay bar...

maybe DA it with trizact 3000. coarser if need be. Buff with a machine. Using perfect it II. Glaze with 3m's black glaze. Use a Da with a waffle pad to apply some good wax.. after that you will need to spend 60-100 bucks for some perma-plate style wax.

I would recommend taking it to a professional. This is difficult...and you might burn through the paint.

0TH0001@properautocare.com

If you need a glaze then you don't know how to buff paint, IMO.

derek 91 vette

You're right I don't know how to buff. I just paint it. And I'm done.

Dan1

Gotta agree with Todd here. Glazes have no place when it comes to paint correction.

derek 91 vette

after compounding you need to use a type of cleaner glaze. I understand that a filler glaze is a no-no.

If someone knows of a good product. Post it up!

Dan1

Why do you need a cleaner glaze after compounding?

derek 91 vette

After compounding with perfect it II.. there is a slight scratch in the form of a swirl.

The next step is to switch to a new pad. And step down the swirl to a deep shine. ( using mystery product X ...)( ...that every body shop seems to have a different opinion of )then begin several layers of wax. Ending up with a perma plate style wax.

Dan1

Yes, after compounding there will typically be compounding marks, buffer marks, and maybe holograms which need to be removed. However, you dont remove them using a glaze, product X, or several layers of wax. You remove them by stepping down to a finer polish such as Menzerna Super Intensive Polish and a light cutting pad. Insure all imperfections are removed, then step down to a finishing polish/ pad for final jeweling of the paint.

For example, compound, then Menzerna Super Intensive Polish, then Menzerna 106FF, 85rd, or 3m Ultra Fina.

derek 91 vette

never heard of that stuff.

roger55

Derek,

I'm not intending to be disrespectful but why don't you fill out your profile and tell us a little about yourself?

derek 91 vette

I never intended to be disrestpectful on any of my posts...

and I never felt disrespected by any of you guys....


I showed my boss this thread today. We will try this technic as soon as we can find the materials. Thank you for correcting my buffing process. That is why I always hated buffing. It never came out properly. So, over the years. I prided myself on getting a very clean paint job with the proper orange peel for the car I was painting. Then usually sanded only dust spec's.

So thank you for the info I like to do things the proper way.

derek 91 vette

I sold my vette last month

this info is just for you roger...I am originally from Chicago. So corrosion is a big issue with me. I live in the Bay Area now. Been here since 1999.
I have been painting cars since 1990. I love GM's...but drive a Ford currently. Lack of money and bad credit. Caused this dilema.
I paint with Standox currently. Chemical base for the time being. Water is coming soon. I'm shooting out of a semi down draft with no heat!
I use an iwatta 1.4 for base. And a Sata 1.3 nr 2000 for clear. 1.5 sata for primer. 1.7 cheapie for polyester.
I'm a gringo...married to a beautiful latina woman. I'm 36 years old.

peace out!

porchdog

i'm not sure i would want to take a wool pad to a factory finish. not much there. there are so many wonder products today i dont know what to recommend. i use foam pads and 100% canuba wax . does very little cutting but gives a great shine. but then i'm a dinosaur . just be careful with a buffer on factory paint. if buffing to cut i use a black pad and presta polish . good luck with it.

l88rocket

a cleaner wax will remove some of it too

Mark G

I love buffing. I think it's a lot of fun. Hard work, yes, but satisfying to see a nice flat paint job gleam!

Mark G

derek 91 vette

I prefer to spray a nice flat glossy finish. With out removing the uv protection.

roger55

UV protection? Please explain.

derek 91 vette

The clear coat is what protects the color from damaging sun light. I forgot what the minimum film build is supposed to be. If you spray 3 coats of clear and buff the heck out of it. You might only have one coat of clear left. It may not be enough to with stand the sun rays for years to come.