Paint/Body Corvette Materials, Techniques, and How To

Could use some help here??

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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 06:14 PM
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Default Could use some help here??

Hi guys..I shot 2 coats of epoxy,and 2coats of 2k..can i use glaze on the low spots and then seal with epoxy?Also bought new L88 hood,you can see all the seams where it was mounted..What do I use to cover them?Any help is appreciated.Thanks Doug
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by GrtDanes
Hi guys..I shot 2 coats of epoxy,and 2coats of 2k..can i use glaze on the low spots and then seal with epoxy?Also bought new L88 hood,you can see all the seams where it was mounted..What do I use to cover them?Any help is appreciated.Thanks Doug
I sure wouldn't think it's a good idea to use a polyester glaze over a 2K primer and I wouldn't do it that way. But, I don't really know whether you can get away with it or not. You should have used your polyester directly over the epoxy then used the 2K and epoxy seal over that. If you just have a few of those low spots, I would sand off the 2k and apply the polyester on to the epoxy then 2K primer again and then seal.

Pictures would help on your second question. I'm not sure what you are talking about.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 09:31 AM
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If your epoxy and 2k are different colors, I would block sand the entire body and hood, and stop sanding when you break through to the epoxy, same as regular block sanding. Now you have eliminated some of your primer build, leveled the surface a little more and you can judge by feel whether additional 2k primer and blocking will smooth things out or if you need to use putty. If you have not blocked the car yet, you still have a long way to go. Personally I use primer unless putty is absolutely needed. Putty is going to shrink, primer is more stable especially in the long run. If the low areas are to deep to fill with repeated primer and blocking, you'll need to recoat with epoxy first before you can apply putty. Follow the mfr. dry time for the epoxy before you apply putty. The only 2k primer I know of that will accept putty is PPG NCP. You didn't say what products you are using, but you could switch to NCP and compatible PPG DF putty for the duration of the project but make sure NCP is compatible with what you are already using.

On the hood I assume you are referring to lumps in the areas where the 2 parts are bonded together? Block sanding with a long board or putty will fix the lumps but will take some work. If the hood is fresh from the mfr., you may want to set it out in the sun for a few days to make sure it's fully cured before you work on it.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 10:06 AM
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I am useing ppg..I just have a few deep low spots..On the hood when they bond it onto the frame,thats what shows .You can see the shape of the whole frame around the hood.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by GrtDanes
I am useing ppg..I just have a few deep low spots..On the hood when they bond it onto the frame,thats what shows .You can see the shape of the whole frame around the hood.
If the hood was made a few months ago, you are safe to start block sanding the gel coat, if it's fresh from the mold it could still be curing and I would wait before working on it. If you think it's fully cured, you can do quite a bit of smoothing by blocking the gel coat first, just stop when you hit fiberglass. Then epoxy it (top and bottom) and while the paint is still wet you can sight across the top and see how bad the low spots are now. Then decide if they need putty or primer. Epoxy the underside, this will keep oil and other fluids from absorbing into the fiberglass which could ruin your paint one day.

If you used DP and K36, they are both compatible with NCP. NCP sands just like K36 and you can apply DF putty over NCP. Just read all the tech sheets.

Last edited by crazywelder; Jul 3, 2008 at 10:56 AM.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 11:07 AM
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The hood is a few mnths old now.Like I said you can see the outline of the frame so would glaze be okay to fix this or should I use short hair bondo.Its to deep for primer?Thanks ahoover.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by GrtDanes
you can see the outline of the frame so would glaze be okay to fix this or should I use short hair bondo.
These marks are typical even for aftermarket steel hoods, but after you block the gel coat I can't imagine them being so deep that primer or putty wouldn't straighten them out. I really doubt you would need a heavy filler. Post a pick that shows them. If they are to deep for primer or putty, I would say you have a bad hood that I would not mess with. What brand is it? Maybe you need to have them send you a good one. The DF filler putty is compatible over DP epoxy and the NCP.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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I will block some more and see what happens.Cant send pics now my camera id on the blinks.Im thinking i havent blocked enough yet.Making it harder caude I threw out my bk.Good timming.lol
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 08:22 PM
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well i sanded the **** outta er and finally got er looking good.guess i might have to buy a new camera while i pick up more sandpaper.lol
Thanks for the helpguys.
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