spi epoxy
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 87
From: bluff dale tx
spi epoxy
dont know if i mentioned this or not. the guys using spi have discovered it works best to shoot a reduced coat as a sealer before color. you will get better adhesion this way. i sand down to 600 then seal before color.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 87
From: bluff dale tx
just a little. maybe 10%. just enough to shoot it smooth. doing this will give you a better adhesion. most everything is cross link now days. just sanding does not ensure a bond. i seal over 320 or 400 then start base color.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 62
From: West Kingston RI
Pardon my ignorance, just trying to understand. First you mentioned sanding with 600 then sealing and then you mentioned 320 to 400. When would you use one rather than the other. Thanks for your time I enjoy doing but am not the most knowledgeable but am learning from guys like you and others here.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 87
From: bluff dale tx
if the epoxy has cured for a long time i hit it with 320 or 400 depending on how it looks. if the epoxy is a week to 10 days old i'll hit it with 600. i scuff the sealer with 600 if i have trash to get rid of.
older epoxy 320-400 for some teeth .
fresh epoxy 600 for trash before color.
older epoxy 320-400 for some teeth .
fresh epoxy 600 for trash before color.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 155
Likes: 3
From: torrington ct
if the epoxy has cured for a long time i hit it with 320 or 400 depending on how it looks. if the epoxy is a week to 10 days old i'll hit it with 600. i scuff the sealer with 600 if i have trash to get rid of.
older epoxy 320-400 for some teeth .
fresh epoxy 600 for trash before color.
older epoxy 320-400 for some teeth .
fresh epoxy 600 for trash before color.
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: N. Tustin Ca
P-Dog, last time I used SPI epoxy I thought it went on, on the thick side. If I mix to spec. to the data sheet do you thin more with laguer thinner or What? Or just less epoxy base?
And thanks again for all your advice. You Da man!!!
And thanks again for all your advice. You Da man!!!
Last edited by mayordaly; Jun 26, 2009 at 05:05 PM. Reason: I'll learn to spell some day
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Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Porchdog,
I contacted Barry at SPI about my '80. It is very clean and needs very little body work.
He told me on such cars he'll just use epoxy primer only for blocking... no urethane primer whatsover.
1) Do you agree this is a good idea?
2) What is a good process for the urethane bumpers? Can I use epoxy on the these as well?
Thanks!
I contacted Barry at SPI about my '80. It is very clean and needs very little body work.
He told me on such cars he'll just use epoxy primer only for blocking... no urethane primer whatsover.
1) Do you agree this is a good idea?
2) What is a good process for the urethane bumpers? Can I use epoxy on the these as well?
Thanks!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 62
From: West Kingston RI
if the epoxy has cured for a long time i hit it with 320 or 400 depending on how it looks. if the epoxy is a week to 10 days old i'll hit it with 600. i scuff the sealer with 600 if i have trash to get rid of.
older epoxy 320-400 for some teeth .
fresh epoxy 600 for trash before color.
older epoxy 320-400 for some teeth .
fresh epoxy 600 for trash before color.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,332
Likes: 63
From: PARADISE
St. Jude Donor '09-'11-'12-'13-'14
Hey Porch. Are you using the standard silicon carbide 3M wet or dry sandpaper for wet sanding?
Thanks a lot for helping us out here, very much appreciated. Wish I was closer to Texas, you'd likely be painting my '64.
Dave
Thanks a lot for helping us out here, very much appreciated. Wish I was closer to Texas, you'd likely be painting my '64.
Dave
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 87
From: bluff dale tx
i wet sand everything except final clear . jim c on the spi site got me to doing it. works pretty well with the da.
when i first talked to barry i told him i had 0 use for urethane or polyester primer. i wanted an epoxy for surfacing. his did the trick. it reduces with urethane reducer. for build i shoot it 1:1 and use my iwata. shoot it slick and wet. after my final blocking i will reduce about 10% for a sealer coat. then start color. it works great on urethane bumpers with no flex added.
i just shoot one coat of epoxy really thick and wet. let cure for 24 hrs or so and block. when i'm happy with it i start painting. i parked the 57 in the sun a few days ago for an hr or so. very little ghosting so i'm happy.
clay , my next project is a 56 210 for a fellow in California . it's strange. most of my work shows up in a transport. somehow the last 3 have been within 110 miles. good luck with it.
damn forgot your question . i use 3m and mirca paper.
when i first talked to barry i told him i had 0 use for urethane or polyester primer. i wanted an epoxy for surfacing. his did the trick. it reduces with urethane reducer. for build i shoot it 1:1 and use my iwata. shoot it slick and wet. after my final blocking i will reduce about 10% for a sealer coat. then start color. it works great on urethane bumpers with no flex added.
i just shoot one coat of epoxy really thick and wet. let cure for 24 hrs or so and block. when i'm happy with it i start painting. i parked the 57 in the sun a few days ago for an hr or so. very little ghosting so i'm happy.
clay , my next project is a 56 210 for a fellow in California . it's strange. most of my work shows up in a transport. somehow the last 3 have been within 110 miles. good luck with it.
damn forgot your question . i use 3m and mirca paper.
Last edited by porchdog; Jun 28, 2009 at 03:11 PM.
