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It was mentioned about 'rolling on primer' in another thread. The idea is to use a foam roller (no knapp) to lay the primer on. The primer is sanded after it sets up.
Has anyone done it this way?. From what I've gleaned in the archives an epoxy type primer should be used. Would Slick Sand be a good choice of primer?
The car is a '64 and is down to fiberglass and areas of red oxide factory primer.
Please do your car a favor and go buy a compressor and a decent spray gun if you wish to prepare the car yourself. Neither SEM spray bombs or primer applied by roller are appropriate for your classic vehicle which is more valuable as a completely decrepit garage find than my 1977 will be as a finished ride. If you lack experience, the beautiful thing about applying primer is that much of it will get sanded off anyway so if you mess up you can simply reapply until you get the hang of it. Modern HVLP guns create almost no overspray if used correctly so the huge noxious clouds of vapor which used to be associated with spray application are no longer an issue.
I certainly appreciate what you say about the right way to do this - via spray gun and compressor. Since moving here to my current home, in my case, that could be a potential problem (neighbor) and that's why the question about 'rolling it on' was asked. It was mentioned that the solvent out gassing odor isn't as bad when rolling on primer vs. spraying it on.
Otherwise, I have 3 Sharpe spray guns, all HVLP, and a too small (good for airing tires up) compressor. The last time the car was primed (years ago) a compressor was rented. All things considered, that worked 'ok'. Might reconsider the spray option and time it when the neighbor's gone.
Thanks for your reply.
Epoxy primer doesn't roll on for sh*t. The consistency of spray materials is not the same as stuff designed for brushing or rolling. Plus it really needs to be atomized. You will have outgassing no matter what, with a HVLP gun you should have less overspray, but paint smells no matter how it goes on.
20 gal, min compressor,bought used for $50 bucks, a good water filter. hvlp spray gun, water born paint/primer, not much smell, not much overspray, prep is critical, thinning paint to the right consistancy , bought my hvlp guns at harbor freight tools, $14 bucks, dont try to clean them and reuse them, just throw them away and buy another one. NOT a show car job, but for a daily driver, I like it. hope this helps
I certainly appreciate what you say about the right way to do this - via spray gun and compressor. Since moving here to my current home, in my case, that could be a potential problem (neighbor) and that's why the question about 'rolling it on' was asked. It was mentioned that the solvent out gassing odor isn't as bad when rolling on primer vs. spraying it on.
Otherwise, I have 3 Sharpe spray guns, all HVLP, and a too small (good for airing tires up) compressor. The last time the car was primed (years ago) a compressor was rented. All things considered, that worked 'ok'. Might reconsider the spray option and time it when the neighbor's gone.
Thanks for your reply.
Buy the neighbor a "weekend at the lake" and get after it then.
Are you by chance a veteran? Many bases have auto shops which might be available to a former serviceman to spray your car away from troublesome neighbors. BYOP... bring yor own paint and gun... air's on the house!
I understand the neighbor thing I have lived it myself. Perhaps you (spray) prime a section of the car at a time rather than all at once. Rolling in on is going to mean a lot of blocking.
I don't know of any automotive primer that can rolled, although I have considered it while repairing 45' busses. If you don't have a problem substrate that demands polyester, I would suggest a HS 2k like PPG K38 sprayed at low pressure, A LVLP gun would be best if you have one. As stated above doing a panel at a time will save your health and peace in the hood. If you must blast all at once, there are carbon filled duct chambers to install in your garage fan exit duct designed to remove odors of certain indoor gardening activities, they will also work for paint fumes.
spi epoxy can be rolled or brushed successfully. not the best choice but can be done. you will have a little more texture to deal with but other than that you will be fine.
Wow, thats cool! I had always hoped someone would come out with a high build primer that could be rolled on, the benifits would be great: 100% transfer efficiency ( even with LVLP guns your lucky to get 60-70 percent ) no overspray ( high solid primers go deeper in jambs if masking fails, also much harder to remove once it cured. You could prime outside over a tarp then let sun bake it to cure.
PPG makes Selemix 2.704.0100 a two component Polyamide-Epoxy primer/filler specifically designed for use on composite wind turbine blades. I undrstand it's quite expensive though.
spray gun , check out this site. southern polyurethane inc has some really great top shelf products. this site is people who use it . some really nice top shelf painters on there. http://www.spiuserforum.com/forum.php
spray gun , check out this site. southern polyurethane inc has some really great top shelf products. this site is people who use it . some really nice top shelf painters on there. http://www.spiuserforum.com/forum.php
Porchdog (good to see you back) turned me on to SPI a few years ago. Great products and great people