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C5 panel bonding adhesive

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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 10:25 PM
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Default C5 panel bonding adhesive

I posted this on the C5 Tech forum and was promptly sent here. I also searched here with no luck. So here goes..

I searched and got lots of hits but still no definitive answer. I am ready to bond the front inner fenders to the frame. I tried today with 3M 8116 and it was a flop. I picked it cause they said it met some GM standard. Halfway through the cartridge the black part was so thick it wouldn't come out of the gun. What I did get in place was too liquid and kept running down the frame rail. I finally pulled it back off and cleaned up the mess.

So, I'm wondering what is the stuff to use. I see lots of mention of 3M 8115 but wonder if it also will be too runny. Most of these adhesives are designed for panels clamped together. On the C5 you have a gap of 1/8-1/4" that has to be filled with adhesive. I'm gonna call the place where I buy in the AM but was hoping someone here could make a recomendation.

BTW, I have read the GM manual but no one around here sells the stuff they mention....Pliogrip or some USC product.
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by fendermender
I posted this on the C5 Tech forum and was promptly sent here. I also searched here with no luck. So here goes..

I searched and got lots of hits but still no definitive answer. I am ready to bond the front inner fenders to the frame. I tried today with 3M 8116 and it was a flop. I picked it cause they said it met some GM standard. Halfway through the cartridge the black part was so thick it wouldn't come out of the gun. What I did get in place was too liquid and kept running down the frame rail. I finally pulled it back off and cleaned up the mess.

So, I'm wondering what is the stuff to use. I see lots of mention of 3M 8115 but wonder if it also will be too runny. Most of these adhesives are designed for panels clamped together. On the C5 you have a gap of 1/8-1/4" that has to be filled with adhesive. I'm gonna call the place where I buy in the AM but was hoping someone here could make a recomendation.

BTW, I have read the GM manual but no one around here sells the stuff they mention....Pliogrip or some USC product.
the best stuff yet that i have used for c-5's[c-2,c-3 also] is SEM 39747 two part mixed in the twist nozzle and apply, did a complete left side 1998 roadster, 1972 complete nose, 1969 front clip ice damaged, numbers of various cars, work boots boats dashes etc....takes a GOOD 24 hours to cure and better at 48hrs, but between to pieces of clean metal scuffed with 24 grit, you CANNOT SEPERATE THEM!!, YOU HAVE ABOUT 45 MIN TO 2 HRS TILL ITS SETTING UP THEN GO HOME SOMETHING TILL THE NEXT DAY, the people at SEM have an excellent support also!!
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 07:46 PM
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Thanks, My paint guy hooked me up with Fusor T21 SMC Repair adhesive. GM approved and also reccomended for truck repair. Guess they have a lot of SMC to metal like a C5. It worked great. Nice and thick so it stayed in place...duplicated the factory stuff the way it squeezed out. Only downside is you need a grip like Hulk Hogan to squeeze the gun. I guess that's why they sell those air powered ones.
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 09:33 PM
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The 8116 that you used must have been out of date because it should not run like liquid.

8115 is a stronger material than 8116 and would also work for what you are bonding.

I'm glad you found a product to work for you.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 01:52 PM
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Take your 8116 back to the parts store and get a refund. Our shop always uses 8115, it works great. The Fusor brand is good too.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by vetman1
Our shop always uses 8115, it works great.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 07:43 PM
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Thanks for the replies. Yes I got credit for the 8116 with no problem. Salesman admitted they don't move much of it so he wasn't surprised I got a bad cartridge. Actually a new store I just started dealing with cause the PPG dealer I been dealing with for the last 40 years or so has changed hands and moved twice in the last 5 years and gone downhill big time.

I don't doubt the 8115 would work too. I been at this a long time and jobbers tend to push certain brands for different reasons. Maybe they are more familiar, make more profit or move more of it. One thing I have learned in auto body is there is a lot of product that does basically the same thing.

Again, thanks for the input and hope the thread my help someone else.
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