Hi, I read through the various posts and the Wilcox paper on the procedure and everything is going great. Drilled the rivets from underneath, header bar popped right off and then used Dremel to make a quarter sized hole in the bonding strip to dig out the rivet remnants. Immediately the bumps on the hood settled down somewhat.

Now at the stage of trying to decide if getting the bumps the rest of the way down and reattaching the header bar is a home project or let the body shop finish off the job. I'm looking at the very last couple up bumps on the outside ends and wondering how hard is it going to be to get a clamp and pressure on the surface with angle of the body on the sides. Any home shop tips on getting these things to settle all the way flat again? Would like to see them down ahead of reattaching the bar, unlike the Wilcox directions that say to just let the pressure of the clamps putting the header bar in take care of it. What happens if the adhesive fills the holes and the pop does not lay down flat?

There seems to be some success out there attaching the header bar back in with two part marine adhesive, and West System Six10 being recommended in several threads I came across. I picked up a couple tubes while work had me near the store and have 30 days to decide whether to use them or not. Needing to buy a gun for the fusor/3m stuff ruled those out for this one time project. Any opinions here on trying out the Six10?

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...w#.UBVWTpaDl8E

 

I used some boards, and a lot of clamps. On the curves, just clamps. All of them settled down, I didn`t have a problem with any staying behind.

 

Good to here yours turned out OK. I really just need them good enough for the paint shop to be able to work with the results I guess. I imagine they would charge a few hundred to put the header bar back up and press everything down and after having spent several of my own hours to get it this far might as well give the home fix a go.

Hoping the West System Six10 will work out OK, saw several posts on people that used it, but never any follow-ups to affirm that things were still holding up OK.

 

Yup, no reason you can`t do this on your own. I just got a bunch of different type clamps from Harbor Freight. The glue I used was Evercoat 813, which I got from my local paint & body supply place. It has plenty of working time to get it set in place and clamped. I also had one of my boys help hold it in place for a minute while I adjusted and tightened the clamps.
As you can see in the pic, I replaced the very front nose brace at the same time.

 

Like Old Gto say, its an easy job you can do but you are looking to use a product that could give you fits and is not made for the job.
Read the reviews right down to 1/2 tubes?? How many you need???

Go to an auto paint store and get the right product as you will have a choice of about 4 brands and all will work good.
3m, Duramix, Sem, Norton, FE and they will all over a bonding of 30-60 minutes worktime.
I like the 4288 or 89 of the duramix best but they are all good.

Pay attention to the one review here it cracked the fiberglass boat, that boat is a whole lot stronger then your vette.