cloudy
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 291
Likes: 17
From: Woodinville Wa
cloudy
I have stripped my car block sanded sprayed expoxy primer On top of that I used a ss black.When buffing the paint looked good but if I look at a different angle it looks cloudy. Buffing some more and even blocking with 2000 it seems to go away,but in areas it looks like I have gone through the paint to the primer.I plan to sand and paint again.Just looking any ideas of why this is happening Help!!! Vince
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 84
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Vince, it is more likely one of two things before i point those things out remember Black single stage is the worse to buff out, even by a pro that paints every day.
It can just be solvents that have not gotten out and one of the best things you can do for an SS is after painting the next day wet sand and set in sun for a full day or two, this will draw the tail solvents out and 1/2 day in sun is worth a week or two inside.
This will also cut your buffing time in half because as the solvents come out, your sand scratches will shrink as the paint contracts.
What I think it is?? Buffing!!!
Could be pads, compounds used not matched up or not using proper speed for the compound you are using, now you can get way with things like this buffing a clear but a black SS is not for the faint hearted.
The SS does not need to be taken off, just wet sand with 400-800 paper, I would put in sun after that for a day and repaint.
When you get to the buffing part PM me and let me know best time to call and we can see what you are using and I can perhaps help you out.
All compounds and pads are different and there is no one right way to use all of them.
It can just be solvents that have not gotten out and one of the best things you can do for an SS is after painting the next day wet sand and set in sun for a full day or two, this will draw the tail solvents out and 1/2 day in sun is worth a week or two inside.
This will also cut your buffing time in half because as the solvents come out, your sand scratches will shrink as the paint contracts.
What I think it is?? Buffing!!!
Could be pads, compounds used not matched up or not using proper speed for the compound you are using, now you can get way with things like this buffing a clear but a black SS is not for the faint hearted.
The SS does not need to be taken off, just wet sand with 400-800 paper, I would put in sun after that for a day and repaint.
When you get to the buffing part PM me and let me know best time to call and we can see what you are using and I can perhaps help you out.
All compounds and pads are different and there is no one right way to use all of them.
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Joined: Feb 2010
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Vince, I just got PM'd by someone that says he knew what you used and the reducer used with it, I'm not here to bash any product but if he was right, you have done the best you can.
One way to tell is take a black piece in the sun next to a well known black like a black Toyota, land rover and hold next to and you will see a brown shade, if that is the case you are just plain screwed.
Then look at a good black like PPG Concept, Spies, Standox or HD in Basf.
Not sure the case and don't really care, just hate to see you go through more work and money and end up with the same thing.
One way to tell is take a black piece in the sun next to a well known black like a black Toyota, land rover and hold next to and you will see a brown shade, if that is the case you are just plain screwed.
Then look at a good black like PPG Concept, Spies, Standox or HD in Basf.
Not sure the case and don't really care, just hate to see you go through more work and money and end up with the same thing.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 291
Likes: 17
From: Woodinville Wa
I suspected that the paint had not cured before I buffed.Some areas looked good other not so much.To try and fixed the problem I sanded and buffed causing to hit the primer coat.I tried touching up the bad areas just to dig a deeper hole.My plan is as you said to sand again most likely with 600 and repaint.
As for buffing I have a dewalt variable speed buffer at about 1200 to 1400 speed. with a wool pad (white) I was using Meguiar's diamond cut and fine cut.I had no problems with sanding marks.Like I said some areas looked ready good others not so much.
I do not know if I will be able to repaint this year the weather I live in the seattle area and the weather is changing.I may have to let it cure over the winter and repaint in the spring.
This has been a learning curve at all stages At frist I supected I would get just primer on and paint next year I guess I will still be ahead of the game.
Thank for the information Will see how far I get I will PM you on how it is going Thanks again Vince
As for buffing I have a dewalt variable speed buffer at about 1200 to 1400 speed. with a wool pad (white) I was using Meguiar's diamond cut and fine cut.I had no problems with sanding marks.Like I said some areas looked ready good others not so much.
I do not know if I will be able to repaint this year the weather I live in the seattle area and the weather is changing.I may have to let it cure over the winter and repaint in the spring.
This has been a learning curve at all stages At frist I supected I would get just primer on and paint next year I guess I will still be ahead of the game.
Thank for the information Will see how far I get I will PM you on how it is going Thanks again Vince
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 291
Likes: 17
From: Woodinville Wa
Vince, I just got PM'd by someone that says he knew what you used and the reducer used with it, I'm not here to bash any product but if he was right, you have done the best you can.
One way to tell is take a black piece in the sun next to a well known black like a black Toyota, land rover and hold next to and you will see a brown shade, if that is the case you are just plain screwed.
Then look at a good black like PPG Concept, Spies, Standox or HD in Basf.
Not sure the case and don't really care, just hate to see you go through more work and money and end up with the same thing.
One way to tell is take a black piece in the sun next to a well known black like a black Toyota, land rover and hold next to and you will see a brown shade, if that is the case you are just plain screwed.
Then look at a good black like PPG Concept, Spies, Standox or HD in Basf.
Not sure the case and don't really care, just hate to see you go through more work and money and end up with the same thing.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 291
Likes: 17
From: Woodinville Wa
I have looked online to see if I could see my problem.The closest I could find was edge mapping,solvent penetration.It's the looks somewant of my problem. I was using a different brand of reducer not Omni.The reducer is med and the activator is fast. I set the hood in the sun for a couple of days hoping to see the problem go away no luck.Before I shoot the rest of the car I would like to get these fact correct if it matters. Thanks again Vince
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,709
Likes: 3
From: Savannah GA
I used Omni on my 1977 but I only paid $450 for the whole car. Your car is worth considerably more so I would council that using cheap paint is a false economy. My advice is to sand the Omni off completely and seal then shoot a quality urethane SS using all products from the same manufacturer, following the recommendations found on the product cans or from the tech sheets available where you buy your paint. You could be both time and money (if your redo time has any value at all) ahead if you had used a better product (and their complete system). One and done is nice!
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 84
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Barryga
I have looked online to see if I could see my problem.The closest I could find was edge mapping,solvent penetration.It's the looks somewant of my problem. I was using a different brand of reducer not Omni.The reducer is med and the activator is fast. I set the hood in the sun for a couple of days hoping to see the problem go away no luck.Before I shoot the rest of the car I would like to get these fact correct if it matters. Thanks again Vince
My mistake on the bad post by me as I assumed considering the year vette, you were doing it would be top notch stuff.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 291
Likes: 17
From: Woodinville Wa
I was working on my hood buffing.I got rid of some of the problem but I buffed through to the primer again.I have decided to repaint,if i put 5or6 coats of the Omni it may be OK I am not willing to go down that road.I am going to use SPI SS black so back to sanding ( I just love it) I talked to a SPI rep and we both agree that it is better than Omni.T this point I think anything would be. Iam disapointed with the people at the store as the direction they gave me,with the advice if you call it that about the Paint,reducer,and the activator to use. Will so much for that I will start over and with the lesson learn I stand a better chance.
Thanks for all the help Here we go again Vince
Thanks for all the help Here we go again Vince
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 291
Likes: 17
From: Woodinville Wa
I have the paint but it looks I will wait untill the spring and weather warms up .I also want the paint that is left on will cure and should not give me problems.I have resanded the car so it is pretty well preped.As I said before I will be using SPI I have the paint in hand.The second time around should go better.If not I could resanded and do it again HA!! Vince
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 136
Likes: 3
From: pittsburgh pa.
your problem may be a result of spraying the paint with a compressor that didn't have an air dryer. or maybe the air dryer wasn't working. sounds to me that the air had moisture in it. did the compressor have an air dryer. it filters the air by cooling it , similiar to an air conditioner,and extracting the moisture. it makes the paint look dull and if there a lot of moisture , you will be able to see the pattern that you applied the paint. if this happened you will want to put a sealer on it before applying additional paint as it will continue to show thru. i would wet sand it back to primer and still seal it.
Last edited by chrldo; Nov 15, 2012 at 09:29 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 291
Likes: 17
From: Woodinville Wa
Good point I do have a filter on the output of the compresser I will look into to see if was working or maybe a upgrade. I have block sand and plan to put a sealer on before painting Thanks for the info Vince
Do you have a suggestion for a filter ???
Do you have a suggestion for a filter ???
Last edited by VinceP; Nov 15, 2012 at 04:25 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 136
Likes: 3
From: pittsburgh pa.
thats not an air dryer. an air dryer is used commercially by body shops or any commercial facilty to keep moisture out of the compressed air to protect any air controlled devices. if your using a portable air compressor you will need an automatic drain and filter for air outlet of compressor and you want to paint on a day when outside humidity level is low. if compressor is in your house ,even washing and drying clothes could be a problem. talk to your paint supplier to be sure your using right products for painting without an air dryer. GRAINGERS has an automatic drain that works with 110 volts. it is adjustable. did you paint it in your garage? i got away with it once. wife stopped that. did you use acrylic enamel , synthetic enamel ,urethane or do they still sell lacquer?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 291
Likes: 17
From: Woodinville Wa
Yes I am painting in my garage,I know it isn't the best place.I am using a single stage from SPI I plan to put a expoxy sealer then paint.I found a dryer from global for a little over $150 I was told that it is pretty good.Thanks for heads up on the dryer.I consider myself a novice with the paint I hope to get a good paint job not a great one we will see when done Thanks again Vince
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 136
Likes: 3
From: pittsburgh pa.
just wanted to make sure i was on the right track with the question on painting in the garage. i've done many overall refinishes in a garage. but that tells me that my statement on humidy is probably correct. when you are ready to do it , make sure outside humidy is low ,i also recommend that you spray entire garage down with air ,especilly the ceiling and garage door tracks , etc. anywhere a little blast of air from spray gun might knock something loose. let it settle for a day then wet the floor down just prior to painting. that will help keep the dust down , just watch you don't splash water while dragging the hose around the car. be carefull not to put too much paint on top surfaces,you will find you put more on top because its easier than the sides. a new spray gun is the best way to go, if you don't know how much use the gun you have now has had. primers , metal flakes and metallics wear the tip out. a worn tip may spray a heavy application on the outer edges of spray pattern. correct pressure is very important. GOOD LUCK!