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Once I`ve wet sanded the clear coat, what grit of compound should I use to buff it out with? I did it once with a medium, and then with a "finishing" polish, but it doesn`t shine like it should. Any recommendations on what brand to use? And should I hit it first with something with a little more grit to it first, then go with medium?
Wool or foam pads?
Best RPM`s to use on a multi speed polisher?
It has been awhile since I did a paint job,but after wet sanding I used
3M compound 39060 with a coarse foam pad. Follow up with a polish to
diminish swirls. Hope this helps.
Jimmy
first question, what grit did you sand the clearcoat with?
You need to work up to 1500 and then I use 3000 grit on the DA.
It makes the buffing step so much easier. It doesn't really matter if you use foam or wool but wool cuts faster. There are many good compounds on the market but make sure it is designed for today's clears. The compound should not have a grit that you can feel.
I like the 3M 3 step system.
Step 1 compound,with white foam or wool pad
Step 2 polish with black foam pad
Step 3 swirl removal. with blue foam pad
RPMs between 1500-1800
Good luck,
Craig
Thank you gentlemen! We wet sanded with 1000, then 2000. I thought there was 3 steps, but we only did 2 as I mentioned. I still have some work to do to get the shine I want.
I did 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000 and finally 5000 wet... By going to all the way to 5000, it eliminated buffing with compound and a rotary/wool... I used Menzerna products (FG400, SI1500, SF4000 and SF4500) with a DA porter cable and Lake County pads (orange, white, blue, red)... I have a good rotary buffer and good wool pads, but did not need to use them... Ask 100 folks and will get 100 different "best" answers... This worked for me... I sprayed PPG DCU base coat and PPG DCU 2021 clear...
Here's a link to my page and you can see my work on the hood...
Well this is really encouraging! GREAT help here! I think I may need to cut a little more, as I still have a bit of orange peel. (Oddly enough, the car looks great out in the sun, just not real shiney. But in the garage under the flourecent lights, you can still see a little peel).
Yamabob, I bookmarked the page, great reading there!
Rogman, car is stunning! Mine is going to be a driver, but if it looks HALF as good as yours, I`ll be satisfied!
If you want to remove more peel it's the coarser grits that will knock it down. You may have to go back to 1000 and work up to buff again. Resanding with anything finer will just follow the contour and won't remove peel. Then again a little peel on a very shiny car is not always a bad thing. If you haven't got the shine you want, it maybe you are still seeing sand scratches that you haven't worked out or you didn't get it compounded enough.
I was thinking that.... start over with the 1000 again.... but hoping for better results this time, hence asking for advice to improve the outcome on the next go-round!
Wife says she`s getting sick of sanding, so if I don`t get it right this time, I may lose my helper!
Usually takes the coarser grits like 1k to 1200 to get rid of orange peel. Be careful though, I've seen it burned / rubbed through plenty of times when excessively sanding in a concentrated area in an effort to knock it down. Like the other poster said, a little orange peel isn't always a bad thing.
Usually takes the coarser grits like 1k to 1200 to get rid of orange peel. Be careful though, I've seen it burned / rubbed through plenty of times when excessively sanding in a concentrated area in an effort to knock it down. Like the other poster said, a little orange peel isn't always a bad thing.
We didn`t go too hard the first time for fear of burning through like you say. I know we had three heavy coats of clear on it. I wouldn`t mind a little peel in it if it shined more. Like I mentioned, you can`t really see it out in the sun.... but it REALLY shows up in the garage.
Look's like there is to much of a jump in between the 1000 to 2000. Go 1000, 1500 then 2000. Your probably seeing the 1000 scratch (dulling) in the finish that the 2000 is to weak to remove. Also... start with the 1000 going the length of the car. Follow up with the 1500 going across the car and finish up with the 2000 going the length. This way you can track your sanding by using the scratch from the prior grit as a guide coat. Now you've removed all trace's of sand scratch in the final finish. It also level's the paint surface and avoid's sanding rut's in the clear.
If I want to eliminate orange peel, I'll start with 800 then follow up with 1000,1500,2000,2500. Alternating the direction of each grit. Then three session's of buffing.
1967 GT-500 under those unforgiving shop light's after first buffing with 3M rubbing compound and a wool pad.
I buff with a wool pad with 3M 05973. Then follow up with a 3M white foam cutting pad using Meguiar's #83. This will remove the compound micro scratch. I finish up with a 3M foam finishing pad using Meguiar's #9.
This process work's for me. It's all about managing abrasive's.
I buff with a wool pad with 3M 05973. Then follow up with a 3M white foam cutting pad using Meguiar's #83. This will remove the compound micro scratch. I finish up with a 3M foam finishing pad using Meguiar's #9.
This process work's for me. It's all about managing abrasive's.
No kidding! Beautiful! After reading this thread to my wife, I think she`s ready to start again... this time lightly with 800, then moving up through 1000, 1500, 2000 from there. Seems we should have sanded at least 3 times, then buffed 3 times, not twice each.
GREAT advice here, I LOVE CF!
after all that has been done i would protect all edges and peaks with blue painter tape before any more sanding and while buffing. one pass over an edge removes way more than on a flat panel . i remove the tape on final polish . i switched to this system a while back. i use only foam pads since sanding to 3000 - 5000 there is no need for wool.
this sample pack is the best way to see if you like it. plus it goes a long way .