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I accomplished a repair and blended the base paint using Wanda HS and cleared with SPI universal clear, I used a Binks M1-G with 30 psi at the gun inlet, fluid adjust one turn out and air 80% open, but I ended up with either dirt, solvent pop or both. I lightly passed a tack cloth after the final coat of base but not on the clear. two coats of clear applied. Was hoping someone could Identify my issue and give me some advise on resolving it. I'm honestly thinking I din't let the clear flash long enough but I'm not sure. The base was mixed 2:1 and the clear 1:1 with fast activator as the temperature in was in the high 60s in the shop.
One picture is a complete view and the second is a close up and difficult to see the issue. In the picture it looks like white craters and little peaks.
The dirt is because well we live in the world where dust exists. I’ve been painting high end restorations for years and I still get dirt. I have a top of the line booth, I take every precaution and it stil happens from time to time that’s why you need to learn to cut and buff. As for the solvent pop it’s due to not enough tack time between coats. Even with a fast reducer and fast activator you should be waiting around 15 minutes between coats if it’s around 60 degrees. Basically to fix the issues you have I would wet sand the part down with 800 and apply more clear. If you can find an anti stat before you apply more clear you’ll have less chances of dirt
Last edited by Captainahab; Mar 2, 2019 at 04:12 PM.
not solvent pop. solvent pop will be fairly evenly spread in an area. may be moisture or just some airborne dirt . make sure you do not have the filter in the cup. they cause more problems than they cure.
with spi clear be sure to cut off the fan as soon as the fog clears . i have pushed this clear further than any other clear could take. flash time is your friend. i wait 30 min between coats .
not solvent pop. solvent pop will be fairly evenly spread in an area. may be moisture or just some airborne dirt . make sure you do not have the filter in the cup. they cause more problems than they cure.
the with spi clear be sure to cut off the fan as soon as the fog clears . i have pushed this clear further than any other clear could take. flash time is your friend. i wait 30 min between coats .
It has to be those things Porchdog. I did not use a filter inside the cup, I let the fan run until the fog clear after the second coat and I waited about 15 minute between coats. A test piece which I shot to see base coverage, Was Moved outside under the carport. About 45 minute or so I used the left over clear to spray over the test panel outside, I was just experimenting with it. It came out great.
I chose the 15 minute flash time base on spi recommendation of 10 to 30 minutes.
I'll wet sand it and shoot it again following the recommendations given.
It has to be those things Porchdog. I did not use a filter inside the cup, I let the fan run until the fog clear after the second coat and I waited about 15 minute between coats. A test piece which I shot to see base coverage, Was Moved outside under the carport. About 45 minute or so I used the left over clear to spray over the test panel outside, I was just experimenting with it. It came out great.
I chose the 15 minute flash time base on spi recommendation of 10 to 30 minutes.
I'll wet sand it and shoot it again following the recommendations given.
Shot again, this time waited 35 minute between two coats clear using fast activator, turn out great! Now, I'm encourage to finish painting my 62. Thanks for the help.
in cool weather it takes much longer for tail solvents to come out. i use slow acc in winter but i keep my booth at 70 while shooting . after it sets for 30 min or so i heat the booth up to 80+ for a few hours. but i have found that flash time is all important. even in summer i wait 30 min . i like to be able to touch the paper on the last pass before starting again .
SPI Clear issues
