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So here's the question, I have some acid etching (rain, bird droppings ?) in my clear coat. Can I spray clear coat over the original GM clear coat? What do y'all recommend for prep, sanding grits for scuffing .etc - the general procedure in this case.
( I've painted a few cars before in the '70's and early '80's but not since, know enough that I think I know what I am doing )
Any advice is appreciated. I am most interested in what will "stick" and not delaminate? Can I cut my new clear coat with a buffer and have a smooth polish surface w/o orange peel. ? How can I tell if I cut through the clear into the base coat?
Does it really need to be recleared. Usually these types of things can be taken care of with a good complete detailing. Wash, clay car, if looking to eliminate or minimize orange peel wet sand (if you don't know what you are doing on this step you can burn through your clear), Buff and then polish.
Does it really need to be recleared. Usually these types of things can be taken care of with a good complete detailing. Wash, clay car, if looking to eliminate or minimize orange peel wet sand (if you don't know what you are doing on this step you can burn through your clear), Buff and then polish.
Thank you for the response. I might try this first, but the clear looks like it has been "worked" on before and is really thin. That's why I'm asking about a respray of clear coat.
Yes if can be recleared
clean it first - wash it
Then wax and grease remover - both water based and solvent based
Then scuff it with a white scuff pad (there are different scuff pads) - white is for blending clear and is the lease aggressive
wipe it clean
wax and grease remover again - both
mask it
shoot it
Yes if can be recleared
clean it first - wash it
Then wax and grease remover - both water based and solvent based
Then scuff it with a white scuff pad (there are different scuff pads) - white is for blending clear and is the lease aggressive
wipe it clean
wax and grease remover again - both
mask it
shoot it
What kind of clear is on the car now.? What type of clear are you going to spray? I only ask because not all materials are compatible. If you are sure what you have. If not, be sure. It will save a big headache.
What kind of clear is on the car now.? What type of clear are you going to spray? I only ask because not all materials are compatible. If you are sure what you have. If not, be sure. It will save a big headache.
It's the original GM clear over Magnetic Red. Do you know the type GM uses (or used in 2005)?
From what I have learned catalyzed polyurethane clear coat is a cross linked polymer. Most professional painters will tell you it cannot be done because the new clear coat cannot cross link with the existing cured clear. For the most part this is correct. How ever some collision repair shops can and do blend clear coats after respraying repairs. Most say the blend will not last more that a couple years. They use blending solvent mixed with the new clear.
I planned my repair to start and end at panel gaps and body lines, lightly wet sanded the entire area with1500 (DO NOT SAND ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE ORIGINAL CLEAR), cleaned with isopropyl alcohol, dried dust free of course, then put down a thin coat of clear mixed with blending solvent for the bond coat, let it flash, then hit with two coats of straight clear which gives me the UV protection of the original clear. So far its holding up very well after a year and a half and you cannot tell its been repaired except for one tiny spot that was sanded through to the base coat. This was all in an effort to repair deep scratches in the clear coat while saving the original base coat. In the end it can be done.
From what I have learned catalyzed polyurethane clear coat is a cross linked polymer. Most professional painters will tell you it cannot be done because the new clear coat cannot cross link with the existing cured clear. For the most part this is correct. How ever some collision repair shops can and do blend clear coats after respraying repairs. Most say the blend will not last more that a couple years. They use blending solvent mixed with the new clear.
I planned my repair to start and end at panel gaps and body lines, lightly wet sanded the entire area with1500 (DO NOT SAND ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE ORIGINAL CLEAR), cleaned with isopropyl alcohol, dried dust free of course, then put down a thin coat of clear mixed with blending solvent for the bond coat, let it flash, then hit with two coats of straight clear which gives me the UV protection of the original clear. So far its holding up very well after a year and a half and you cannot tell its been repaired except for one tiny spot that was sanded through to the base coat. This was all in an effort to repair deep scratches in the clear coat while saving the original base coat. In the end it can be done.
So spraying new clear over the "bird crap" etched clear coat will fill in these etched areas so that they are no longer visible? Most etching of this type can't be sanded out without cutting through to the base coat.
You can definitely clear over the old clear
The sanding provides a mechanical bond / etch for the clear to adhere to
Wash the car
Clean with solvent based wax and grease remover
Clean with water based wax and grease remover
The small etching will be filled
I would recommend at least 2 coats
3 would be better if you plan on wet sanding and buffing
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