Ontario Orange Help!
I am not familiar with RM paints, but most basic rules are pretty much universal between paint companies. So, you describe your color as a "firemist". Do you mean it's a pearl, rather than a metallic? If so, you SHOULD be ok spraying the parts separately IF....you do everything EXACTLY the same. And, I mean EVERYTHING. Make sure the paint is thoroughly stirred. Pearl's will always want to settle to the bottom. Make sure your air pressure, gun pattern, and the way you lay the coats down are also exactly the same.
I am currently piece painting a 1957 Chevy Bel Air, and it is a ford color, J7 code. It is a super high metallic dark gray. This is a super expensive, full rotisserie restoration. I have done every piece exactly the same and everything matches absolutely perfect. I have been sealing, then applying 2 coats of basecoat at 26psi, 75% overlap, about 9" away from the panel....a nice, consistent, wet coat. Then third coat at 16psi, about 18" back, and apply a quick, uniform dust coat.
I hope that will help you out.
If you are spraying water base, how are you getting it to dry between coats? I have built in air blowers on the walls of my paint booth. I'm just curious how you're getting the basecoat to dry in a garage.
RM Paints are in the BASF family...I am paying about $220 CDN a quart...so far I am quite pleased with the results I am getting (inexperienced). You are correct it is a pearl. I’m using a Devilbiss gun with DKups.
My first spray of colour and clear, on the lower rear valance resulted in what I believe (after a bit of research) was solvent pop. I knew I laid the colour on fairly heavy in a couple spots, then cleared it not waiting long enough for the colour to flash off (30 Min). I did other parts, door jambs, convertible top covers etc at different times, waiting much longer (3 hours) after the colour coat eliminated the issue.
So far I have painted at three separate times and cannot see any colour variation. It would be so much easier to do the hood, wiper door,grills and convertible top cover separate from the car.
I understand the importance of...same air pressure, same overlap, same distance, same fan size...this is the toughest part, especially not having a digital gun.
As far as my set up for drying the paint......I am working out of a regular 2 car garage, 14ft ceilings. I hang a tarp to cut my spray area in half and improve the air flow. I have 4 box fans as well as a set up I built using two furnace blowers to remove the air , everything is filtered using furnace filters. I have a door to my basement that I leave open and this pulls the air (air conditioned or heated) from the house creating a negative pressure in the garage. I don’t paint if the outside humidity is above 65 to 70%.
I am getting the odd bit of crap in the clear but I think the air flow is good enough as the “fog” is not too bad and I’m not seeing any overspray on the finish. I know I will eventually be colour sanding and buffing. I am figuring on 3 coats of clear.
Having come this far with this project, in particular the fiberglass work, bodywork, fitting the doors, the primer coats, blocking, primer coats and more blocking until my fingerprints are gone I have a new appreciation for you guys that do this for a living. Anyone that b#$&he’s and moans about a $15,000 paint job on one of these cars should try doing it themselves...just once
Thanks Again DW for your help.
Last edited by Norm07; Nov 5, 2019 at 09:01 AM.
Yeah I had heard of RM paints, but it's one of those brands that isnt readily available in my area, so I have never sprayed it.
Keep us posted on the progress!
I too want to do my Vette Ontario Orange and may be tempted to try it myself so will be watching this very closely.
Does it have some pearl in it vs metallic? Does it sparkle? Can't tell from the pics.
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