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I just started to restore a 1956 hardtop (will put it on my "57). I have everything removed down to the fiberglass shell except for the aluminum header. The frame and stainless are in great shape, and I have ordered parts from Glassworks.
I sanded some of the top and I am trying to figure out what I am dealing with around the cracks. It kinda looks like there is a layer added to the original fiberglass, but not sure what I am looking at with the coats of paint. It may have a very very fine mesh under the top coats of paint. Some pictures are attached. Any opinion about the different layers on the top, and how to remove all this stuff would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Garrett
I am still looking for some advice on restoring this '56 hardtop. I am removing a layer of matting and paint with a heat gun set on low and a razor blade. It is a little time consuming, but it is working. There is a lot of crazing in what I think is the original finish, but there are no fiberglass crack. See pictures.
Once I have removed all of the old material, can I do the following to finish the shell:
- Skim coat VPA to fill all the crazing - sand.
- Spray poly primer - sand
- Couple coats of urethane primer - block between coats.
- Sealer
I decided to sand the original paint off the hardtop - about half done. There are quite a few spider cracks in a few spots. See picture detail of one area. What is the best way to fix the cracks? Would VPA fill and prevent them from showing thru the paint?
There is alot of cracks there
I am afraid the cracks would come back with a layer of VPA
I would consider laying a fresh layer of mat over the entire area
I know thats alot of work but it would keep the cracks down
If the top wasnt so thin I would so V groove them - but the tops are sooo floppy
Thank you Chris.
I read a lot of your posts, and appreciate the specific instruction for my top.
A few questions:
- I think I should fill any cracks or gouges in the fiberglass first. What fill material do you recommend?
- What type/size/thickness mat or mesh should be used? I don't know if there is a specific term for this top layer.
- What material should be the first coat over the mat?
Garrett
Garrett
Question
Is the whole top like that or just the 2 areas marked with green masking?
If it is just the 2 areas - I would dremel the cracks from one end to the other and just "deep" enough
Fill the area with VPA and block
Then I would body fill and block as needed the entire top (I use Rage Ultra)
Then poly ester primer - block that
If the whole top looks like your photo - I would consider I layer of mat
Regular fiberglass mat and resin - I would lay it on and roll your resin with a foam roller - works great
If your going to do a large area - I would make 4 or 5 small batches and try to do it in sections - other wise the resin is going to want to harden faster than you can roll
You may need a helper or 2 or 3
Chris,
The entire top has cracks - looks like it had a rough life. As best I can tell, there are no cracks that go thru the shell - just surface cracks in the fiberglass.
Someone tried to fix it many years ago because it had a thin mesh installed over the painted fiberglass. Not sure how long it lasted, but It failed.
I think your suggestion of adding a layer of fiberglass mat is the only solution for this top. Working alone, so I'll just need to do it in sections, and make sure I have everything planned out and prepared before I start.
So:
- Fiberglass mat with Polyester Resin?
- Body filler over the mat? - blocked
- Then polyester primer
Good plan
When I do larger areas I use a painters tray - you can buy smaller ones at Home Depot
and I use 3 in foam rollers
lay your mat down and pour on your resin and roll with the roller
Works wonderful
You could lay big piece over the entire top and have trays and rollers ready to go - add your hardener and stir and pour
I would be afraid of butt joints but it my be fine
Sand / block after it hardened
Fill with filler
Block
Polyester primer
Block
2k urethane primer
Block
sealer
Paint
Chris,
Thanks. All this is extremely helpful, and I appreciate the time you have taken to outline the process. I really like the idea of setting up resin - measured and ready to go for the hardener. That will give me a fighting chance to get the mat on in one piece.
I am going to install the mat tomorrow. I'll post a picture of either success or fail .
Garrett
I installed the mat yesterday. Set the barn temperature to 60, and had all the materials set and ready to go - fiberglass cut to rough size, 5 pints of resin ready for hardener, 4 brushes, rollers, and gloves. I found it helpful to tape the fiberglass in a couple places at the front header until some of the resin was applied across the front header area. I had to cut the fiberglass in the rear curved corners, but overlapped the mat, and used a brush to poke the glass together. I also found the brush to be helpful to seat the fiberglass at the edges. Set the barn to 70 when the job was done.
Anyway, your recommendation to install mat over the entire top was right. It has added a significant amount of stiffness to the top - particularly in the center of the top. Using a roller and setting-up the resin ahead of time was critical to getting this covered - wet out had to move quickly.
I wasn't sure how to get this done. I have restores several cars, but never worked with fiberglass - so thanks for the advice - from installing mat to materials and step to finish!!
Looks like I have hours of sanding and finish work - but happy to do it.
Moving along with hardtop shell. A little VPA along the header, and then a couple stages of filler. I think I am finished with 80 grit sandpaper - need to move to 120. I really like working with the Evercoat Rage Ultra Extra - thanks for the recommendation Chris. I am a little wavy in a few spots, but think I can fix with next stage of blocking.
Thanks Chris. I am using a short yellow soft sander with 80 grit sand paper - just ordered a longer yellow block. I was wondering when I should use a guide coat on this thing. I have some SEM Powder guide coat. Will give that a shot tomorrow.
1956 Hardtop Shell Damage
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