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I'm looking for some Metallic Paint Blending advice. The guys at Speedo-Kote recommend the following process:
Lay down your base coats allowing for proper flash time then for Blending pour the base coat from your cup and Reduce by 35% with Basecoat additive shoot another coat cut blending into the area to be blended. Allow for proper flash time then repeat the process now Reduced 50% with the Basecoat additive and shoot another coat to blend area.
The other recommended process is contained in this link from Paint Society
It seems several painters have their methods so my question is who has done this and which process have you used?
I am shooting PPG using PPG Medium Reducer.
I prepped the blend surface with 800 grit (Everyone agrees with this), My Primed surface is wet sanded with 400 grit. Driver side. PVC is the framing for the Temp Spray booth I am building. Booth will be 6 mil plastic, Fine filters in the rear and front with exhausting fans on the outside with a Zipper door like used when doing Mold remediation. Painter's paper will go in the floor with the booth sealed off. The car will be thoroughly cleaned including tires, then rolled into the booth and wiped down again prior to paint. Passenger side
Blending metallics can be difficult. You will probably always be able to tell the new paint from the old. Getting the metallic flakes to lay down like your old paint will be challenging. You have got all the hard work done. Have you considered painting the whole car? That way everything matches. Base, color and clear on the whole car. When I dont paint in a booth, I keep the floor wet with water to catch the dust. Be carefull with fans and electric motors if they are going to be exposed to paint fumes. The spark in the motors can cause the paint to ignite. Good luck and keep us posted with your progress!
Blending metallics can be difficult. You will probably always be able to tell the new paint from the old. Getting the metallic flakes to lay down like your old paint will be challenging. You have got all the hard work done. Have you considered painting the whole car? That way everything matches. Base, color and clear on the whole car. When I dont paint in a booth, I keep the floor wet with water to catch the dust. Be carefull with fans and electric motors if they are going to be exposed to paint fumes. The spark in the motors can cause the paint to ignite. Good luck and keep us posted with your progress!
Thanks for your reply. Regarding the floor the reason to not use a wet floors is the humidity and other issues. The anti static paper actually works quite well provided you don’t do any prep on it which is why the car is pre prepared and will be blown off and initially wiped down just before rolling the car onto the paper instead of in the sealed booth. The car will be finish taped and a second layer of plastic will be taped over the rest of the car.
Yes I have considered shooting the entire car but have been assure doe with plenty of blend surface and using the Blend additive it should be fine. If after it is done it doesn’t flow well I can shoot the balance.
Hey Mike,
Unfortunately I had Cataract surgery a week ago and it has been raining and cold here in SoCal...Geez, I can't believe I am saying that! Imagine someone looking at this post a few years down the road seeing me talking about cold rainy weather in SoCal and thinking...LIAR!! LOL!
Anyway looks like I will be painting in about 2 weeks providing the weather cooperates. Meanwhile I made up some tire/wheel covers and a couple of 6" tall Scaffolding so that I can spray the hood evenly. My plan it to paint the hood and headlight door edges first with my small gun, Next I'll fully paint the chin area with the smail gun. I will then paint the hood, front end then the passenger fender with two coats allowing the recommended 10 minute flash time. I'll then add the 35% Blend Additive (setting aside a small amount for some touch up work later) and shoot the fenders beginning with the Driver's fender then moving to the passenger fender. Allowing the flash time then thin down the mixture to 50% and repeat. After the front of the car is done I will un-mask the driver's door and pour the 35% into my touch up gun and shoot a small section around my door handle (already prepped with 800 grit) then repeat with the 50%. When the car is all dry I will 800 the rest of the driver's door and clear the entire front end and driver's door together. I plan on using Finishing film on the entire car beginning with 1200 (hand 1200 wet sanding the edges and concave curves), then 1500, then 2000 then 3000 then 4000 Arbolon.
Yep I saw. That's what we are looking for is a 2015-2019 2LZ Coupe. Have been watching BAT. We have a Hot Rod, 719HP Supercharged '56 Chevy Del Rey.
I'm ordering a new Convertible top next week so as soon as the paint is done it will go to the shop and have it installed then it will be on BAT. The C3 is a great fun around town and back road cruiser but on the highway and going up the coast it is noisy and a stiff ride. As my GF says "It's not a comfortable as the Mercedes. LOL
Hey Mike,
Thanks for checking in. I painted the basecoat Sunday and while applying the first coat my exhaust fan died causing a lot of paint dust to settle on the surface causing an Orange Peel effect. Having experience with how to cure "Orange Peel" I decided to finish shooting all the coats of the base coat. After completion I discovered three imperfections. I spent the afternoon doing the old school Wet sanding with 320 followed by 400. This morning I shot over the imperfections with base coat cut with 50% Blend additive which is essentially clear base and I am extremely pleased with the results. BTW, looking at the color to the original color it is excellent from looking at it in the booth even prior to the clear coat. Unfortunately today is windy and too cool to shoot the clear coat so I will patiently wait for better weather conditions.
I have a similar project going....I took flares off the front. This is the last sanded coats of polyester primer before urethane primer.
Man Brian, That looks really good! BTW I built a spray booth out of 1" PVC and 6 mil plastic sheeting. I installed filters and have a 2200 CFM fan. I also laid painter's paper on the floor. I am so glad I did. I found the instructions on YouTube from someone who did it. Nice Harley in the back ground. I have an all original '49 Panhead in one of my garages which belongs to a friend.
Shot the Clear Coat today and I am really happy with it. Just needs to completely cure so that I can begin the cut and buff. One small issue was when I went to shoot the 3rd coat somehow the air on the gun was off so I go a small dribble. No problem, I will cut it down. Been there done that.
Thanks Mike,
I am extremely pleased with the Blend match. Please keep in mind that this is BEFORE the cut and buff so the orange peel doesn't match. BTW, after I cut the front with Wet 400, 600 then 800 I will do a finishing film 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 then an Abalon 3000 wet. I will then do the entire car with 1500, 2000 then the Abalon 3000 all prior to a light buff and wax. Blend Match prior to cut and buff
Blending Metallic Paint
Clear coat!
