Starting my search for a compressor that I will use to sand/paint my '78. I presently have 2 small compressors that can't do the job so in my searches I came across the California AIr https://www.californiaairtools.com/c.../cat-60040cad/. Not sure how important oiless or decibel levels are but this seemed like a good starting point. I don't have any spray gun equipment yet but figured that the compressor is the biggest expense so start there. All opinions welcome. Thx.

 

If your budget allows, I would look for a quality true 5 hp dual stage compressor, with a minimum of a 60 gallon tank. If you use a DA sander they take a lot of air. Tractor Supply normally has Ingersoll Rand Compressors in stock or you might be able to find a good used one.
No experience with oil free compressors, but I have read they are louder and have a shorter life than ones that use oil.

 

Mark, thanks for taking the time to get back to me. I actually have an Ingersall Rand and a Dewalt on my list of possible compressors. More HP and within my budget. The real reason I have been looking at the California compressors is the decibel levels. Most of the bigger names are in the 90 db levels. The California one is 75 db. A significant drop in noise. Part of that is the electric drive motors. Back when I was younger that wasn't important to me. Which is one reason why at 73 yrs old my hearing is shot. I didn't realize how much it bothered me until last week when I turned on my little Kobalt 1.5hp machine it and nearly drove me out of the garage. That is what started me looking at alternatives. I reached out to California Compressors with some questions about what I need and if their product will work, so I am waiting on their reply. I will report back on their response.THx. Jim

 

I run a 6.5 hp 80 gallon tank 2 stage compressor. Yes it is loud. Any time I'm using it I have a set of ear muffs on. It does keep up with my 30 gallon sand blaster. Also my DA. The trouble with smaller compressors as you use them and they cycle on/off a lot and they can create heat that can attract moisture as they suck air into the intake.
If you can put the compressor in a separate room that helps a lot.

 

Thank you 71. I know about the cycling and the condensation and believe I have that under control. I don’t have a blast cabinet but if I did I would definitely go for more power. In reality I don’t use that many air tools any more. Haven’t had my air gun out in a long time since I got a battery powered one. I have talked to a few people who think this will be ok for what I am doing and I have even been in contact with this company and their communication has been great. I think I will pull the trigger on this. I will update this thread when it gets here. I would like to think I will do a DIY paint thread but I might be too lazy to follow up on it. But maybe not. Thx.

 

As a follow up I got the California Air model 60040CAD compressor yesterday. Ordered it on Amazon and it arrived via truck in 2 days. Free shipping. It has two 2 hp motors and is oilless. Puts out 12.8 cfm @ 40psi and 10.6cfm @90 psi. Granted not the most powerful compressor in the world but I believe from all my research it is enough to do what I need. They also have a 6hp model if you need MORE POWER. And it truly is QUIET @75 db.. I had a small portable pancake style compressor for work projects and it is as quiet as that one, if not more. Comes complete with an air regulator, an automatic water drain valve, and a 220 plug! All I had to do was screw on the 4 air filters, one per pump. Quality of the work is very impressive. SO my review is that if you are in the market for a compressor, check out what they have to offer. And they responded within an hour of my emails.

 

I know money is always a factor, but simply put, a compressor is the 'heart' of your shops power system. It's an investment. If you can stretch it (or save a couple more months) .....I wouldn't F-around, buy a really good one from the get-go like THIS (or something along those lines). Preferrably 16.5 CFM at 100 psi or higher. Not a so-so unit which you'll be under-sized down the road. One which you will never have to worry about or have capacity issues with. I've been doing tons of paint work and sandblasting lately and I was thinking the other day that even with all the frustrating issues I've been having with my project, I'm super-thankful my air compressor has just been a real joy and I've never been under-air'd or had a problem with it.

That compressor you're looking at, the specs say 12.8 cfm at 40 psi suggests to me it will barely run a HVLP spray gun once you put some black pipe line to it, install a legit moisture trap/regulator and tack on 50' of hose. The Harbor Freight Black Widow spray gun specs are 11.8 CFM at 35psi. And that's with a 1.3mm tip. What about a 1.8mm tip needed for primer? And I haven't seen compressor companies under-estimate their outputs. Like i say, you still need to add all the other stuff (line moisture trap min 20' from compressor, etc) ...to do good paint work. I'm sure the compressor you're looking at wouldn't run a Master Pro Elite (amazon) spray gun. No way. And would be frustrating for sand blasting. The motors are small...and dual motor?? Just like buying a wire-feed welder, stretch as much as you can up front with a quality unit and you'll never look back or have ANY regrets (how many people finally sell their 2nd Chinese welder and buy a good one?). Seriously. And with a good compressor you can sandblast with a legit blaster with a 'real' tip....off 50' of air hose all day long on future projects. My brother has bought 2x small 60 gal compressors. The motor went out on one, the compressor on the other. At first he re-did the compressor. Then it locked up (aluminum compressor). He couldda just bought one 'real' Ingersol rand compressor for $2,800 (Probably $3,200 nowadays) and spent the same money and had a tool that had real value (vs a no-name import).

The key elements of a good compressor are: 1) A slow turning compressor, cast iron (for longer life)..and dual-stage. Hopefully one you can get parts for. 2) One that's rated at like 16+ CFM at 90+ psi. If they're rating a compressor at 40psi...keep looking! 3) A decent-sized motor with a real starter. A lot of compressors are 'under-motored'. You might buy two motors for it...so you couldda bought one good compressor up front! 4) A finned cooling coil (loop) between the compressor stages, which helps reduce moisture. 5), 80 gal is good. 60 gal ok, but usually 60 gal compressors are low CFM and good for tires. I don't personally have any experience with the E-Max company but it looks like it has the important things.

DeWalt has some good looking compressors. Ingersol Rand. Get one with a starter and a legit 'real' 5hp (7.5hp even better)...not a compressor with a ****-ant little garage-sale motor that'll last a yr. Like I say, many guys, esp starter-outers, go cheap and eventually after their 2nd cheap compressor has konked-out they finally break down and buy a good one. My recommendation is to save the wasted time/money and get a good one up front. Best of luck!

 

Whoops! I guess I didn't notice you already bought and received the compressor. Plz disreguard the post above. But I'll leave it there for other guys wondering what compressor to shoot for.

Best of luck and much success with your projects.

P.S. dont make the mistake a lot of newbies do and hang the moisture trap off the end of the compressor. It needs to be 20' away to allow the condensation in the warm air to cool down and condense-out BEFORE the moisture trap. Black pipe helps it condense out better than plastic. If you hang it on the end of the compressor, the warm compressed air (carrying moisture) will go right through the moisture trap, and then condense out somewhere in the airline as it travels (cools down) to your tool or [gulp!] spray gun.


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Mark, yes I got the compressor and am pleased with it. it has 4 1HP electric motors on a 60 gal tank. And it is only 75db. So far I have used to to run a DA and the recovery time is pretty quick. I don't plan on any sand blasting or even to use very many big air tools. Those days are long behind me, this is just to paint, this one car. I did not hook up to any black pipe but ran a plastic line about 30 feet and then added another moisture trap, like the one on the compressor and then a Motor Guard 60 paper filter. I put a gauge after all of that and there was hardly any pressure loss. I also plan on a disposable in line filter at the gun. I think (HOPE) I have the moisture issue covered. Right now I am taking it all down to fiberglass so I won't have to worry about what is underneath. Then bodywork and if all goes as planned I will start up my own painting thread and get some color on the car right after the holidays. OR for sure before warm weather here in SC with the 95 % humidity that comes with it. Thanks for your input, I see you in a few thread here and along with another member I have been talking with off line I think I can make this happen. Thank You. Jim

 

Congrats on the compressor set-up. Based on what you need, it should work for you. I'm sure you can make the project a success. It's a lot of work, but also extremely rewarding to drive around in a car you painted. The smiles will never go away! Luckily, there's more info and videos online than ever before. Let me know, I'll be glad to offer thoughts and perspective as best I can if you get stuck or are unsure on a paint and bodywork issue.

When you get a spray gun, try to get one which uses a CFM in your compressor's range. Maybe you have a spray gun already. Chances are you're going to spray base/clear and probably wetsand & buff the car. So therefore you don't really need a fancy or expensive spray gun ...truth be told. If you ended up with dry spray on the whole car, it would still look better after buffing. You're better with dry-spray than run. You can't ever really work runs out such that a keen eye cant see them.

Cheers

 

Mark I will take you up on your offer. I know enough to know what I don't know, if you get that. I have painted a number of vehicles over the years but that was a long time ago with a siphon gun and single stage enamels. I know the feeling of pulling off the tape and paper and seeing your finished product and I want that same thing when I am finally DONE with this car. I have a neighbor who bought a Devilbliss starting line set with the regular and small touch up gun with a total of 3 tips for primer, BC/CC and touch up tips. He was going to paint his hot rod but chickened out at the last minute and just wrote some guy a BIG check to do the work. He gave be the brand new, unused gun so equipment wise I am in good shape. Per my calculations the compressor will handle that gun. And I will touch base with you regarding question sI have, I am sure there will be many. Thanks.