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Need a little advice. I am working on a ‘73 and am nearly ready to install new rear quarters, but need to fix the forward lower leg bonding area. This car had significant damage to the rear quarter and taillight panel. I’ve already replaced the taillight panel and am moving forward…. The bonding area needs to be build up, can I/should I use the West System epoxy resin and powder bound mat to repair this area prior to epoxying the rear quarters on? I understand that afterwards I would have to address amine blushing. Is there a better/smarter way?
I have, on hand: Pro Set 175/275 epoxy, West System 105/207 resin, USC polyester resin, mat for poly, powder bound mat, fiberglass cloth, and Evercoat VPA for SMC and fiberglass.
Thanks for the message
So what I think your showing is a gap between the bonding strip and the new panel?
If that is true - I would just fill it.
Before I tell you that......
How is your door gap and door alignment and style lines?
How is the quarter to rear panel
How is the height and wheel opening?
If all is great
Set the quarter where you want it.
If it was me - I would bond it with 3M panel bond 08115
That is what we use in the shop on all fiberglass
If your asking should you build that up then bond to it....you could but not needed
Looking at your material list......you could VPA it - it will set fast.
Problem with VPA - you have very little working time........
You can back fill it - then sand it smooth.
After bonding it in place you could make that area look OE.....
Chris
Thanks for the message
So what I think your showing is a gap between the bonding strip and the new panel?
If that is true - I would just fill it.
Before I tell you that......
How is your door gap and door alignment and style lines?
How is the quarter to rear panel
How is the height and wheel opening?
If all is great
Set the quarter where you want it.
If it was me - I would bond it with 3M panel bond 08115
That is what we use in the shop on all fiberglass
If your asking should you build that up then bond to it....you could but not needed
Looking at your material list......you could VPA it - it will set fast.
Problem with VPA - you have very little working time........
You can back fill it - then sand it smooth.
After bonding it in place you could make that area look OE.....
Chris
Chris thank you for posting!
the wheel opening alignment, rear bonding area, door gap, and upper bonding area are great. From the belt line down, the forward part sets a little farther in than the door. Almost an 1/8th inch. These quarters were better quality than I imagined they would be (I’ve received some ugly bumpers and hoods in the past). My biggest concern is the small contact patch for bonding the lower leg (about 3/8th inch) and the large void in the wheel well created by the flare that would leave a large portion of the original bonding area exposed.
You ARE going to remove the remaining adhesive down to the bonding strip/s, right?
The little bit left on the forward, lower leg? Yes. That darker area on the long horizontal is a previous hand-laid repair that feels like it is still intact.
On another note, I’ve never seen that bonding strip (the vertical one between the wheel well and the door) available for purchase. That is the other reason why I was thinking of building it up with powder bonded fiberglass and the west system epoxy. It’s a little thin compared to the upper horizontal bonding strip. At some point in this car’s life that rear quarter was reinstalled. Well pictures don’t do it justice. If you look closely, there are a couple spots where you can see they use screws to secure the fender while it was being bonded.
Chris thank you for posting!
the wheel opening alignment, rear bonding area, door gap, and upper bonding area are great. From the belt line down, the forward part sets a little farther in than the door. Almost an 1/8th inch. These quarters were better quality than I imagined they would be (I’ve received some ugly bumpers and hoods in the past). My biggest concern is the small contact patch for bonding the lower leg (about 3/8th inch) and the large void in the wheel well created by the flare that would leave a large portion of the original bonding area exposed.
Chris
Fill it and come back and smooth it after wards - or there are ways to make it look OE !!!!
On another note, I’ve never seen that bonding strip (the vertical one between the wheel well and the door) available for purchase. That is the other reason why I was thinking of building it up with powder bonded fiberglass and the west system epoxy. It’s a little thin compared to the upper horizontal bonding strip. At some point in this car’s life that rear quarter was reinstalled. Well pictures don’t do it justice. If you look closely, there are a couple spots where you can see they use screws to secure the fender while it was being bonded.
If it is super thin you could lay a couple layers of glass and resin - but once you bond to it.....it all becomes one strong part
If it is super thin you could lay a couple layers of glass and resin - but once you bond to it.....it all becomes one strong part
Using the West System, I layed 2 layers of cloth and 2 layers of powder bound mat. Cured nicely with no evidence of blushing. I cleaned it as if it did though. Tonight I am going to finish the clean up and finish fitting the quarters. Tomorrow I am planning to epoxy them on. 🤞. I’ll be back soon!
Bonding area build up
