Who has broken diff gears in the past? Which gear ratio broke? Who built the diff? HP level or ET? Blown or N/A? Manual or Auto? Tire? Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

You should ask what the circumstances of breakage were. That probably has more to do with breakage than the HP.

 

Try posting question or doing search in the FI section. I have seen several posts showing what high torque and HP motors can do to drivetrain.

I have also seen some comments about broken differentials under posts about DTE brace.

 

i broke one in a stick form 373 power shifting second 650 rwhp 720 tq !!! thats with harden parts !!! danny do what i did buy a spare and letter hang !!!

 

I am driving on my spare diff right now as my race diff is being rebuilt. It's a shame that we can't find a way to keep these monsters from eating up parts. I guess that I should be happy though because this is actually the first thing that I have broken in four years of racing.

 

Broke 3 Difs last year 2 were DTE 4.10's with a lot of trick stuff, RPM made up a 4.10 and it lasted a while before the ring and pinion went also All broke at the Drag Strip on the Launch (I do a 1.38 to 1.45 60' launching at 1000 RPM). Rodney (RPM) made up a 3.42 Getrag unit that did not break!
Switching to an RPM C6/Z06 (close to a 9" ring gear) 3.42 rear end for this year which will hopefully solve my rear end carnage problems. Got Rear End Questions call Rodney at RPM he'll make up something for your application that will hold together, and you will not have to wait a life time to get it either!!!

JR

PS - To clearify all 3 broke at approx. 5800 RPM in 1st gear NOT at the hit of the throttle, to me anything before the 1 - 2 shift is launch, and all 3 sheared basically ALL teeth off both ring and pinion!

 

I broke two from DTE, both 4.10's. I was running an LS1 with bolt-on. I had run a best time on 12.37 with the 4.10s. First time it blew everything to pieces on a 4500 rpm launch with very quick clutch engagement, on a very sticky track running ET Streets. My tuner felt the ring gear gave up first as teeth were broken off deep. Phil from DTE disagrees and should be adding to this discussion shortly. The second was a lazy 3700 RPM launch that broke three teeth off. I actually finished the run but ran 13.0 and drove it home. I replaced it with a new Z06 diff based on the recommendation of Chuck Mallett. I have not broken that one but I haven't beat on it as hard either. I toasted my clutch last year trying get a kinder, gentler launch. My wife would shoot me if she knew how much I spent on three diffs.

Phil, I will beat you to the punch, yes, my C5 is old and tired but all of the old parts still work! DTE does have many satisfied customers from what I can tell, I'm just not one of them.

 

Well Jan, since you seem to have a very difficult time providing the whole *accurate* story here everytime you come on here to unjustifyably bash us, I'll set the record straight for you again.

In every business, there is always one customer that one cannot be pleased no matter what is done for them- even if you give them the keys to your shop, your house, the deeds to your insurance policies and your first born. You are that customer and Lord knows....we certainly tried to work with you, but you are entirely impossible to deal with and continually smacked us in the face for it time-and-time again.

You didn't mention here that your car was a rusty, corroded wreck salvage that was drug out of a junk yard and patched-up enough to get back on the road.... You didn't mention that you have been driving around with both airbags deployed from the crash it was in and that you simply waded up the airbag material in a ball to stuff it back into the steering wheel- only to seal it up with duct tape.... You didn't mention that the frame was bent in the crash- even though you "say" it's straight... You didn't mention that the steering wheel position was off approx. 100* from center, even though the car was heading straight.... You didn't mention that the brake lines were nearly rusted through, the upper shock mounts were already more than half rusted through and the rear suspension bushings were sloppy and moved back-and-forth with the car just setting there..... You didn't mention how *BOTH* motor mounts bolts were completely missing form the chassis, as were other misc. hardware throughout the car... How many *hard* miles did it have on it- 130,000+????

The issues with that car go on and one Jan and it was *YOU* who chose to drive that unsafe, junk car around on public streets, when you shouldn't have. There is *SO* much driveline deflection and free-play slop in that rear suspension, I didn't want to even take it on a test drive when it was first completed here. We had a gut feeling that we would have problems with you and that car; hence the reason I took those detailed photos like I did, because I *knew* you would play down the mechanical issues down to a lesser degree than was actually there. You proved me right....


Also, since you seemed to have forgotten- When you left here the first time after we upgraded the differential, I *STRONGLY* suggested that you fix that car before you drive it again, because it was in such poor mechanical condition. You said you understood, but then you refused to do anything more about it we later found out...

After you shattered your first differential, I asked you if you had fixed any of those mechanical issues I warned you about and you stated that you hadn't, but in your "expert" opinion, that was not the cause for the differential fracture. I wasn't going to argue with you, even though I knew better, so I gave you the benefit of the doubt by giving you a **$600+** DISCOUNT on the second differential -AND- set up the new one for **FREE** for you. We didn't have to do that in light of the situation, but we did anyway out of good faith and yet, it still wasn't enough for you, so you smacked us in the face for it anyway!

Then you called about a week later and you had shatted *another* differential!! Again, I asked you if you had fixed any of the negative mechanical issues with your car and to my surprise, you *still* hadn't touched *any* of it and that you weren't going to either, because you thought your car was "just fine". This time, I didn't warranty anything, because you absolutely refused to listen to anyone and fix that worn-out car before you took it back to the track and you got very rude on the phone.


The bottom line is this:
- You purchased a HP differential from us to use in a completely worn out car that you refused to fix...
- We warned you about that worn-out chassis and that you should take care of it first, but you refused to listen and did nothing...
- You broke a differential anyway, (no surprise) we took care of you and *again* warned you to take care of that car this time. You once again refused to listen and did nothing...
- You broke another differential (no surprise) and you wanted us to fix it again on our dime... I don't think so for the reasons clearly stated above.

Jan, if you installed a brand new engine in your car that already had an old, clogged radiator in the chassis that led to engine over-heating and ultimate failure- is it the engine's fault for the clogged radiator that caused it to overheat? Of course not and it's a wonder that *any* differential lives in that rusty, corroded, worn-out chassis of your car- let alone anything else. You *need* to get that thing fixed or return it back to the junk yard....

Old and tired are one thing Jan..... but your car is ***WAYYYYYYYYYY*** beyond that and the photos attached clearly show that. That car should *not* be on the road, let alone on a drag strip!!! It's entirely unsafe on many levels!!!!!

We tried to work with you on multiple levels Jan and you refused... We tried to offer you some free, sound advice to get that car fixed so you wouldn't have any of this happen again and you refused to listen.... We even professionally answered your other questions you asked of us via email about other things since all of this happened- even though you come on here and bash us every chance you get and you *still* smack us in the face for it and bash us anyway...

There is nothing more we can do for you Jan and it's too bad that you had to be one of THOSE customers that just can't be pleased no matter if Jesus came down here himself to take care of you. You are impossible to deal with and you refuse to look at the facts that are staring you straight in the face regarding that very unsafe car you're driving aorund. I'm glad I don't live near you to see that car on the roads....


Phil
Good luck....

 

Photos

 

Phil, I'm surprised you let me drive it home! Do you have a story for JR-CRUZN-C5, he broke two of your diffs as well?

 

None of our differentials broke- the failure came from the supplied 3.73 gear set from Motive Gear that had questionable mettalurgy issues that we're still taking up with MG as I write this. This very reason is why other builders who supplied him a differential using that same 3.73 gear fully treated *ALSO* broke the same 3.73 ring and pinion set as well in the same fashion, until they switched to the Getrag gear, which has a different hardning process and/or material.

Nice try.....

 

Nice addition..... Jan, you're a big boy and you saw what that car looked like from underneath when you saw it at the shop- so don't play the blame-game on us here. You can make adult decisons all by yourself..

This type of behavior from you is precisely why I stated that you are impossible to deal with and you want everyone to take responsibility for your poor decisions.... You've had next to 2 years to get that car fixed and I'd be willing to bet my life that you haven't touched a thing on it to correct any of it to this very day!!!


Phil

 

Pretty interesting Phil because when I suggested it was the Motive Gears that broke twice, you kept saying it is my car. And I repeat from earlier threads, you never suggested any repairs to my car except for the brake lines until I called with a broken diff! Why didn't you include the photo of my ring gear that shows that damage?

 

You've got me a little worried Phil. I bought a 3.73 stage 4 rear last year. Can you tell me if it has the "bad" set of gears, or the good ones?

Thanks,

Adam Griffin

 

Stop trying to grab at straws here that aren't there, just to hedge your inaccurate, bogus claims.... In case you didn't know or don't understand- *YOUR DIFFERENTIALS HAD 4.10 gear sets within them that were built with gears **2 YEARS AGO** and we've never had an issue with them to date. The other gear sets that I spoke about earlier were 3.73. Can you understand that simple concept of the differences between gear ratios?

Also Jan, you have eyes, you saw the car and you knew of the junk you were driving around, long before you ever got here, so do you REALLY think that it even needs to be said to fix that heap you're driving based on those photos???? You've got to be kidding me....

 

My claims are no more bogus than yours.

JR-CRUZN-C5 "Broke 3 Difs last year 2 were DTE 4.10's with a lot of trick stuff, ....."

And yes, I understand gear ratios, I have an engineering degree, do you?

Your turn, I'm done. I know how you always get the last word in.

 

We're wayyyyyyyy beyond that issue Adam.... Jan just wanted everything for free despite the obvious issues with him and that "salvage car" of his and when he didn't get his way twice, he stomped off mad and gets his fun by coming on here and postong erroneous, inaccurate, incomplete information about that wreck he's driving.


Phil

 

Indeed and it's common knowledge- but thanks for asking.

There is *nothing* bogus about any of my *FACTUAL* statements I've made and how much of a POS your car really is. The photos clearly describe in great detail what I've been saying all-along, but to this day, you still refuse to acknowledge the poor mechanical condition of your car- even though it blatently stares you in the face.

You cannot expect a differential, a transmission or an engine to live in a poor mechanical environment like that for very long and the shear amount of driveline deflection that exists in that chassis makes it a wonder at all that the car even goes down the road. You were warned about it many times, but you *still* insisted on ignoring us and refused to correct the issue.

You really need to take that car off the road for good, or get it fixed- once and for all. It's a danger to anyone or other cars on the road within striking distance....

 

I just got through telling you already... The gear sets were 3.73 *NOT* 4.10.

If you're going to post, post accurate information, rather than speculation, conjecture and any other non-sense that holds no validity.


Phil

 

Get YOUR facts right, the steering was taped with electrical tape, duct tape would have been way too obvious!

Oh, by the way, keep a look out for my POS, I have a new job and my territory includes Ft. Wayne but I will probably on the back of a AAA flatbed!