FuglyHippo

About to take my car to MIR on Sunday to try and knab a 10 sec pass.

The car currently has these mods. (2002 Z06)
Stage 4 Monster Clutch
150 shot
315/40/17 MT Street radials (Starting to dwindle down in tread)


I know the track will be a ton stickier and I would like some advice on how to launch it.

Thanks in advance,
-Hippo

JDS99

No diff upgrades??? Bringing a trailer? Haha.

Good luck on the quest! Let us know how you do.

FuglyHippo

I thought the output shafts were the weak point for my power level?

Any advice on launching?

Thanks,
-Hippo

JDS99

That's what I meant by diff upgrades. Left side shaft is usually the first to go.

I'm no expert in launching, but several others on here are. Juat had mine out on Friday, and my 305s hooked hard at a 5k rpm launch. I am trying to get used to the level 3 monster I just put in, and need to put the throttle to the floor a tad sooner. I'm trying to plant it just before the clutch engages. If you want 10's I imagine you are going to need to come out of the hole at 5k or higher.

SargeZ06

Get RPMs up and don't release the clutch hard and you'll be fine. Come out just like you would at any stop light. A little slip, a little pedal, engage when it's rolling and hammer it.

robz

I would take an n/a pass first while keeping the tires aired up high and a very small burnout to get a feel for the track.
As everone will tell you don't dump the clutch and be fairly agressive on the throttle.

That should give you some insight on your nitrous pass.

Use feedback from n/a pass. Ask advice from people with a Monster clutch and who race at MIR because all act differently. Fartpipe comes to mind.

I would start conservatively.
20+ psi in tires
good burnout
medium rpm launch (under 3500)
That's the only true way to figure it out that day on that track.
You won't figure it out on the first pass so enjoy the day and work up to your goal.
As you get more comfortable and figure out what the car wants, start raising the launch rpm in small increments.
Make sure you get several full passes in with conservative launch techniques and deliberate shifting before you try to run any number.
That's my opinion.

SargeZ06

^^^ good advice. Fartpipe is in a whole nother class though ... LOL

I run the Monster Stg 3. Love it.

98vettedave

A lot of good advice given here. The 315 40 17 MT is a lot of tire to be running on a well prepped track with a stock differential. If you come out hard and your clutch can't be slipped you'll dead hook and the results could be disastrous. The entire differential including housing along with the tranny main shaft having known to blow under such loads. I would suggest airing those big boys up to 25 psi during your initial N/A run and make adjust thereafter if necessary...better to spin the tires than to dead hook. A good set of MT or Hoosier DR's 275 40 17 would better serve your present purpose (setup) on a well prepped track...over kill on tire size is a common mistake.

robz

Take advice from guys like this above who have experience with 6 speed and nitrous.

Keep us posted and don't stray from the plan. MIR is hard on parts.

FuglyHippo

I actually am only running this tire because I traded a set of headlamps I had for them lol.

Fartpipe, Bruce, is actually the main guy who has been helping me via facebook with all kinds of things including this. I'm meeting up with him tomorrow (Hopefully if I get everything done, afr etc.) at Cecil Dragway to run his new Z06 and him help me find that 10 sec slip.

I'll be sure to do many N/A passes to feel out the track and practice my clutch slip and be sure to pump the tires up to 25 lbs.

Thanks for all the advice and thanks for putting in my mind "My car is SOOOOO gonna break tomorrow" LOL.

-Hippo

98vettedave

I wasn't trying to be overly critical of your tire selection,but it's an important factor non the less. Unless I'm mistaken ole Fartpipe ran 275 40 17 DR's on his orange florescent C6Z. The Fartster is very familiar with how fragile the C5 differential can be when the car dead hooks. Good luck this weekend and be smart!

Does Bruce have a new ZO6 or is he running the ZR1 that he just recently purchased?? If he bought another new corvette,then I know he must be related to Romney.

FuglyHippo

Nah, he sold the ZR1 already (traded it in) and has a newer Z06 now.

Thanks for the luck!
-Hippo

Joe_G

Only thing I would add is don't be afraid to ride out the clutch. It is your safety valve which will take the abuse and not break like the rear will. If you dump the clutch it's game over..spin at best and break at worst.

Good luck! Hitting the 10 second goal is a great feeling. With the juice you could probably launch n/a and hit it from second on. I don't think I'd launch a manual on the juice...but I wouldn't juice so I'm not the man to ask.

04goatman

Keep us posted !!!

Fartpipe

OK I got this guys.


Take the right pedal just before you're ready to launch until you hear atleast 3 ringatingtings. Then promptly slide your left foot off the clutch to get the fastest release. After picking up the driveline. Rinse and repeat NO WORRIES!!!


I was unable to go on Sunday due to wifely duties. However I do know he ran into a shifting concern at upper RPM's. We've been chatting here and there and defintely have some things to try. Just need to narrow down the shifting problem but sounds like it may be a internal transmission issue since this concern showed its ugly self prior to a couple upgrades including the clutch. Hopefully we'll see this puppy in the 10's with the shot sometime soon

FuglyHippo

As Bruce said, I approached the dragstrip with EXTREME caution since you scred the **** out of me of breaking my car lol.

Only did 3 runs since I couldn't get 2nd to snag.

First run I launched at 3k to feel out the track (Just like I do on the street) and I bogged and damn near stalled the car out, pretty sure it hit 100rpm. Followed by missing 2nd and took 3 or 4 tries to get it in. It was an N/A run and I only ran a 14.00, which to say the least, was extremely embarassing. After that I basically said screw it and would obviously try much higher rpm drops. On a side note, slipping and launching on an LS6 clutch is simple as pie, however slipping the stage 4 is extremely difficult for me.


For the next 2 runs it also took 3-4 tries to throw into 2nd.

Next run I launched at 4500, bogged like hell again and 2nd gave me hell. 12.54
Last run I tried 5k, bogged like hell AGAIN, with 2nd issues. 12.60

After that, I was sunburnt and the woman and I were hungry so we said our goodbyes and left MIR.

I have come up with a few theories/ideas from friends and my thoughts..
-I have read some places that a short shifter will sometimes mess with the linkage if not lined up right so I am going to try throwing the stock shifter in and seeing if that helps.
-Some people have told me that exchanging the clutch fluid in between runs will help the issue. (I already swap out my fluid Ranger Method style damn near weekly).
-I honestly think that heat could be the problem. On the way home from the track after the car had been driving a while, I did a couple test 0-80's and my 1-2 shift felt pretty stiff to shove in, but I was able to do it. Maybe a tranny cooler is needed? Gonna get a buddy with a golfcart to push my car to the line so i don't have to sit in line and have my car heat up to 220 degrees like it usually does.


I would really want to find the issue asap and hope it to be NON-trans related to avoid shelling out $$$ for a built trans or 6060 before I even get the 10 sec slip lol.
Any other suggestions?

Thanks to you guys in advance and Bruce on helping me in private.
-Hippo

98vettedave

Glad to hear that you made it home in one piece.

1,I doubt seriously that the short shifter is causing the the 2nd gear engagement problem. That issue is normally related to the clutch master cylinder or the tranny itself. Also on rare occasions the throwout bearing can cause an issue if not properly installed.

2,Not to beat a dead horse,but 275 40 17 DR's would have provided a much better launch with less stress on the components. I run Hoosier 275 40 17 DR's and activate the nitrous with a .6 second delay...

I'm assuming that you have all of the necessary safety items (components) that nitrous requires. Remember that activating nitrous below 3000 rpm's is very dangerous...if a serious bog (as you experienced) happens with the nitrous activated a very big boom will blow your **** apart.

3,A tranny cooler is not necessary when drag racing a M6/M12.

Ranger did a writeup on a method of keeping the low fans running continuously while at the drag strip,this entails pulling two modules and inserting a small wire bypass. Do a search for more details. I personally took Rangers advice and had a buddy of mine (professional wirer) make me up a bypass connection. The method works great at keeping the coolant temperature down between runs.

Joe_G

Sometimes the aftermarket shifters have "stops" built in to the shifter ring, and those stops vibrate loose and end up blocking the shifter rod from moving as far back as it should. Easy to check for that problem...but I wouldn't get my hopes up.

How is the 1-2 shift in normal driving? Does it act up only at high rpm shifts?

robz

After the first pass you want to air them up to 30psi and just clean them off in the burnout box. MIR usually has killer prep.
I agree with all the fellas.
I will say that if the clutch/fluid gets real hot from burnout and launch it can lock you out of 1st at high rpm. A larger adjustable master cylinder and a longer throw can often resolve that issue IF nothing else is broken. Some food for thought.

FuglyHippo

98VetteDave: I have the Tick Master and all new clutch system components, however - how exactly does one mess up the throw out bearing? It seemed to come on the Slave so just about no one messes it up. But maybe I did.

I plan on getting the 275/40/17 MT Bias Plys, but like I said, the 315 ET street radials were free, they are bald and when they start to clearly not provide anymore grip, the biasplys are going to be on order. Want to figure out what's wrong with the car before spending $$ on tires. I hear you though, working on it. ;-)

I do have all the necessary components, except a filter, which is on order. I use an FJO progressive controller which is set to 100% spray for the entire 3200-6300 window. Also have a purge, bottle heater and digital pressure guage. I have a wideband installed and planned on logging some runs for AFR, but never got to. But N/A, it is saying I'm at like 11 flat at WOT. This normal?

Found the fan trick! http://www.rangeracceleration.com/C5_Fan_Trick.html
Very nifty! THANKS!

JoeG: I'll be sure to look at these stops when I get home from school tomorrow. I talked to Rick Kim at RKT56 and he said it could possibly be the shifter if it wasn't aligned correctly via this: http://rpmtransmissions.com/files/c5...adjustment.pdf
Since I have grinding in 4th and sometimes 6th, yet 1st, 3rd and 5th are fine, he thinks this is worth trying, so let's pray it's something as simple as this!

The 1-2 issue is usually after I have been ramping on the car for quite some time. So I think it's a Heat thing to be honest. On the way home from the track I did a 1-2 shift at some lights and it worked fine. I'm gaming on using race DOT4 brake fluid with the fan trick might posisbly fix it. Hoping. -It doesn't really do it at low rpm.

RobZ: I have a 100% Tick clutch setup. I have been told to run the tires pumped up, but I'll be honest, the guys at the track convinced me to let some air out to 18psi. I'll definately try hiigher psi and cleaning the tires next time out!


Thanks for all the help guys! Your time input into this thread is NOT unappreciated!
-Hippo