Well, after getting 10" of rain on Friday in East Texas (yes, you read that correctly) the streak of Lord knows how many 90+ degree days has ended. Today was in the low 80s, breezy, low humidity and DAs hanging around 1800' or so. Not perfect air like we'll have later this fall but better than we've seen all summer. We'll take it for September.

Best run of the evening was 11.74 @ 113 with a 1.53 60'. Car is basically a bolt-on with a stock lift and stock duration Bullet Pure Stock cam. It was very consistent running an 11.74, 11.75 and 11.77 despite us playing with tire pressures and not attempting to cool it at all except ice on the intake.

We run Hoosier 27" x 11" x 16" DOT drag radials. Tire pressure was adjusted from 23psi all the way down to 18psi and 60' times never changed. I was very surprised by that.

Finally, if you believe drag race times and their density altitude calculator conversions at sea level (we'll see those conditions later this fall) the 11.74 would translate to an 11.49. Car is still at full weight other than wheels/tires.

Scott

 

Sounds like it is running pretty strong for 1800 DA Scott. Texas should see some negative soon

 

Yes, we hope so. There's a 2-day race at Dallas Raceway October 19th ... some domestic vs. import shootout. There's an all-motor, cam only, no power adder class that we "might" be able to be competitive in and if not we'll run the 11.50 index class. The first pass of the night was 11.74 with 1800' DA but by 11:30pm the DA was down to 1100' and it still went 11.75. Weird. Putting the car in the garage at 2am I heard a squealing ... may be the water pump so we might look into a Meziere pump to help with cooling between rounds.

 

Some times it doesn't make sense. My last 2 runs at MIR were pretty much back to back. I cut a better 60' but was a hair slower in ET. It could be I got a degree of knock somewhere and it pulled a degree or two of timing. I didn't log those runs.

Unless you log everything, it is just a big guess.

 

Congrats on the new PB.

Keep the tire pressure as high as you can without spinning. Lower pressure can slow you down.

No need for ice on the plastic intake. It never gets hot enough to make a difference.

Electric water pump is a good idea.

Good luck vs the import crowd...

 

Nice times. I noticed a big difference down south after the rain too. Hopefully you get a chance to run in even better weather in the future.

 

The thing is really getting it done in the 330. Dang good ET for not much mph.

Ron

 

Maybe because of the tire pressure and unlocked convertor on the top end? Front half is awesome though.

 

390 gear and an SS4000 stall is doing the trick

 

Yes, we love the 3.90 gear, Yank SS4000, and 27" Hoosier DOT radials! I honestly think it would like a 4.10 better with more converter. Best 330' time was 4.68. 660' MPH was 91. I think in Pure Stock, with our tiny cam with stock lift and stock duration, it just doesn't make any power up top to bring nice MPH numbers. Since the motor doesn't make any power the goal I believe is to maximize what we have and get it moving. Boy, it does leave hard and pulls strong in the first half. We also have to run springs with OEM open and closed pressure. When we put the cam in we added fresh springs but again they're stock-like.

Weren't able to take pictures racing (when my wife drove it was just lifting the front tires) but we did snap these. We'll get some the next time we're out in the day.

 

That's the way to travel. The wheels look great on the vette

 

Thank you. Other than having to buy a set of LG spindles to get things to clear we love the wheels. Wendy has wanted an RV for some time and found that one in Dallas. It's a 2007 and had 9,000 miles. Last night was the first time we towed with it. Boy, how nice! We watched the UT game on ABC in between runs while the car cooled. We look forward to using it for some 2- and 3-day races.

 

Congrats.

 

Can you grind on the crank at all for your class? What fuel are you allowed to run? Do you have a link to the rules for the class you run in?
Edit: Think i found it. Are these the rules? http://www.mydigitalpublication.com/....php?id=949427
Do you need to go any faster?

 

You got it. Those are the rules. No, to my knowledge no crank work permitted. There is an IHRA list of permitted racing fuels but we run pump gas because of the oxygen sensors still being used. Saturday we got some 104 unleaded at the track (for $9 a gallon!) but I don't think it makes a difference on a stock engine. Of course we would like to go faster ... when is quick enough ever quick enough? However, to my knowledge we are the quickest B/PS in the country at more than 7 tenths under our index and in good air and getting down to race weight (3275) it will go 1 second under which is kind of the magic number for really fast Stockers. Do you have cheap ideas on how to go quicker? There is ET left but when you get to this point and are really trying to squeeze out the last hundreths it gets expensive now and for us personally the small gains are worth the dollars.

 

Congrats....sounds like a great time and it is truly awesome to be able to get the wife involved....

What weight reduction mods have you done ?? Also, what does your exhaust system currently consist of ??


Again, congrats on getting out and enjoying your car !!

 

When I looked the rules up it made it appear like there is an ET limit for classes. Thats what I was asking about. Can you go faster without changing classes?
AIR CLEANER: Optional. Build custom ram air with or without filter

BLOCK: Must be OEM for horsepower claimed. No filled blocks. Deck block for compression, Might be able to modify for better bay to bay breathing

BRAKES: Must be OEM complete, Line lock accepted. OEM up grades allowed. upgrade to oem smaller and lighter rotors cailpers. or turn the stock ones down to save weight

BUMPERS: Must be OEM complete.

CAMSHAFT: Aftermarket cams allowed as per horsepower claimed. Must check on or under factory specs for lift, duration, and overlap.need to find out at what location they check the cam at and maximize the other areas. You might have done this already?

CYLINDER HEADS: All cylinder heads and valves and valve train must remain stock and unaltered as originally produced per year and horsepower claimed and also have correct casting number. Would have to talk to a pro but I bet there is some power here.

ENGINE: Must be same year and make for car used. Engine equipment, other than original, factory installed prohibited. Cylinder bores must not exceed .070 overstock. Bores are measured at the top of the cylinder where ring wear is not evident, Engine balancing permitted, however, excessive lightening of component parts is prohibited. Porting and/or polishing, any grinding in ports or combustion chambers, removal of any flashing, sandblasting or any other modification to cylinder heads and/or manifold or carburetors on cars in this section is prohibited. Stroke alteration is prohibited. Lots you can do here. Max bore, may be able to go farther if you nitride them.Lighten crank maybe a slight offset grind."prohibited" lol. Rod work to lighten and raise compression.I was talking to a well known racer and tuner about the cam setups once, asked about the stock lifters and he didn't say anything the first couple of times I asked, but there is some power there too.

EXHAUST SYSTEM: Stock OEM exhaust manifold mandatory with open exhaust. Headers permitted with OEM type mufflers, must be baffled and/or chambered. No straight through type allowed. Must be separate unit with outlet turned down or out to side of vehicle. custom headers, mufflers

FAN, GENERATOR, WATER PUMP: Must be connected and operable at all times. Belts must be tight enough to drive equipment in a satisfactory manner and without excessive or noticeable slippage. Must retain original factory produced fan. Stock size and material pulley must be retained. Water pump must remain stock. Electric fan may be added.
remove anything running on the belt you dont need.Dont know if all pulleys have to be stock size or not? put bigger ones were allowed.

PISTONS: Replacement piston must be stock as originally produced. Stock type and number must be used. Wrist pins, rods, and crankshaft must be factory original per horsepower claimed. Replacement piston may be forged or cast. Stock OEM dome must be retained.get them light, more compression, Coatings. Talk to machinists about best hone and rings.

POLLUTION CONTROLS: May be removed.pull it off

POWER STEERING: Power assist accessories and/or air condition pump drive belts may be disconnected during competition, provided they do not drive the fan and/or generator, or that removal of the power-steering belt would adversely affect the car steering. Power steering pump and air conditioning equipment may be removed. If you dont need it get rid of it. Lighter and more power to the wheels

SUSPENSION: Must be OEM per horsepower claimed. Any stock type shocks permitted. No other suspension changes or additions permitted.custom valved stock type shock. Drag race alignment.

TIRES: Any DOT tire permitted with full tread pattern. No recaps. Slicks may be 9 x 30 x 15 maximum sidewall designation. might go faster with different tires,maybe even smaller ones.

TRANSMISSIONS - AUTOMATIC: Must be stock OEM for horsepower and body style claimed. May not be altered except for addition of aftermarket shift kit. Aftermarket converters allowed.maximize converter for launch and top end.

UPHOLSTERY: Must have full factory upholstery, including factory carpet in place, No interior gutting permitted. It is required that the driver’s seat tracks be securely bolted down. If roll bar is installed, the rear seat may be modified to allow proper installation. Get rid of everything you can while keeping stock appearance

VALVE SPRINGS: Stock replacement per OEM spec. and must check on factory spec. open and closed pressure.Misht be able to shim them or other mods to increase pressure while they are on your heads if you need it

WEIGHT ADJUSTMENT: Same as Stock Eliminator. Lowest weight your allowed

WHEELS: Any type, as long as they are as strong as the original.Lowest weight possible

WINDSHIELD/WINDOWS: Windshield and all windows must be clear except for factory tinted safety glass and in good condition. Windows must be operative but closed during competition. Decals not permitted on any front door window or windshield, or rear window. z06 glass, lexan

Fuel, find the one that lets you make the most power by making timing adjustments.You might make more power if you raise the fuel pressure to get better atomization. I have heard the lt1 stock eliminator guys run 80-90psi fuel pressure. If you talk to someone who has been doing this awhile I'm sure they could tell you what works best. Sure I missed a bunch of things too. Stock racing still takes ingenuity, testing and lots of $$$$. Just have to maximize everything. If there is a better stock part that's legal run that. Lots of tolerance in the engine build, use the tolerance that will make the most power. These are just some of the things I would try but it might be cheaper, easier less wasted time if you talk/pay some of the pros.

Left out vacuum pump and reduce windage.

Another edit. The stock eliminator cars I have seen ran the 30x9 slicks. They make more power than you so they may not be the best tires for your setup.

 

Interesting post SBC.....but if he is the fastest B/PS around, I would think he just needs to go race the car.
If IHRA PS is like stock eliminator, it's a bracket race unless he comes up against another B/PS car in which case at heads up, he will win handily.

Scott, awesome 60ft times. 1.53 is good!

Ron

 

Thank you sir! No real weight reduction really other than the wheels/tires, removing the smog equipment, converters, ... We have a minimum weight we have to adhere to and we're there as it sits and then we'll adjust with fuel.

The exhaust system is 1 & 7/8" ARH off-road headers, X-pipe with no cats, and Ti exhaust.

Yes, Wendy loves racing and would be at the track every weekend if we could. Her daily driver is a 300C SRT8 and she simply loves cars. I catch her online in the evenings looking at early Corvettes. She has only been to the track as a spectator with me and has never driven so we put her in the car Saturday. She loved it and did great! I went 11.74, 11.75 and 11.77. Her first pass (EVER) she went 14.50, then 13.05 and finally 11.98 and 11.91. That's a steep learning curve and she did wonderful. She is 140+ lbs. lighter than me (no comments please ...) and loves, LOVES being in the car so we are going to let her take over the driving duties and I'll do the maintenance. With her when she gets it figured out I know there is an 11.5x in it.

 

Thank you SBC for taking the time to comb through these. It looks like you have a good handle on Stock Eliminator racing without (I'm assuming) being involved in it. To address a couple of your points we do run a Vararam and have it tuned for no element. Any block, crank, internal engine work we've held off on as we aren't interested in having the engine out of the car now. Regarding heads there is power to be made. Dave Layer at Heads-Up Cylinder Heads in Dayton, Ohio is one of the best in the business (although there are other very fine head guys and engine builders) and a set of his heads are $3500 and will pick up around 35hp which would translate to another 0.15 or so for us. In my opinion if we go that route I'll call Texas Speed or someone and buy a head/cam package for $2700 and put the car solidly in the 10s and just bracket race. Drag shocks are in the works ... a nice winter project.

You've listed lots of "little" good ideas that will definitely add up and help. We're now to the racing and tweaking stage.