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I take off in 3rd, competitive driving mode, flash the converter to about 1500 rpm, let the trans shift by itself....my best times that way....
+1
I guess it would depend on the set up too though. I'm assuming you're stock so I can't attest to that. We run a 3.90 gear, Yank SS4000, and 27" DR. Our car likes to leave from an idle best and hit the converter. Best 60' is 1.50.
Do make sure you're in competitive driving mode and 3rd gear and just try different things keeping a record of what works best. Tire pressure is going to make a difference as well.
It will depend on your tire choice and hp level.
I have a 3500 stall, and even when I had low 400rwhp and Nitto 555's, I had to load the convertor slightly (1500-1800) and ease progessivly harder into the throttle to avoid going up in smoke.
I practiced a LOT with my G-tech pro, and the difference is amazing.
light loading and punching resulted in 3.6-3.8 - 0-60mph
Loading the converter and easing into full throttle gave me consistent 3.09 - 3.15 - 0-60mph
place in drive and traction control off
Practice was FUN
It will depend on your tire choice and hp level.
I have a 3500 stall, and even when I had low 400rwhp and Nitto 555's, I had to load the convertor slightly (1500-1800) and ease progessivly harder into the throttle to avoid going up in smoke.
I practiced a LOT with my G-tech pro, and the difference is amazing.
light loading and punching resulted in 3.6-3.8 - 0-60mph
Loading the converter and easing into full throttle gave me consistent 3.09 - 3.15 - 0-60mph
place in drive and traction control off
Practice was FUN
almost the same specs, 3600 Yank, 3.42, heads/cam, etc.... trans is programmed for shift points/pressures/rpms/ etc so I just have to step on the gas ....some DRs I can dead hook, some brands I can spin...MTs are usually pretty good for mine, and I have a set of Nitto NT 05R that arent too bad either... I use competative driving mode rather tha TC off since it allows for active handling ... saved me once when they sent me down after a turbo car blew a rad hose and wet the track at 900 ft - I took out the 1000 ft light and went through the traps sideways at 120 mph and managed to save it.... was heading for the wall otherwise...
there's a youtube video of one of my runs, 11.07/124 ish, shows I just flash the TC a bit and let the trans shift at it's set points... check "hot vette kill" that run was on the Nitto NT05R at i think 1.49 60'....
With a stock converter I would leave off idle. Last bulb.. Nail it. Every car is different especially when modded. Flashing a stock or aftermarket converter tends for better gains. Just look at the fast list for stock and for ones running bolt ons or NA. The threads I've reviewed throughout the years makes it pretty clear not to stall it to 2000+
With a stock converter I would leave off idle. Last bulb.. Nail it. Every car is different especially when modded. Flashing a stock or aftermarket converter tends for better gains. Just look at the fast list for stock and for ones running bolt ons or NA. The threads I've reviewed throughout the years makes it pretty clear not to stall it to 2000+
+1
IMHO it puts the suspension in a bind and doesn't allow as much weight transfer as when you leave from an idle and flash it. This has just been my personal experience however each car is different and experimenting is your best friend.
Thanks my motor is built but it is stock tranny converter, I am hoping it will last through the summer. My next winter build will be monster in a box tranny upgrades and a 2800-3000 stall. So in drive with the traction control off. My tranny has been tuned by ECS for shift points and torque management.
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