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Adding roll bar, how to offset weight?

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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 08:14 AM
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Default Adding roll bar, how to offset weight?

I have been sitting here putting together a parts list for my winter build and decided to go ahead and pull the car of the street. I will retain a mostly factory appearance.

So far the plans include a 5point RSD bar, race seats(have a cheap jegs seat already) possibly a dual line lock kit, new wheel and tire setup in the rear and a small bit of spray.

I am looking for ways to offset the 50lbs the bar will add. The car already has some weight removed. No passenger seat, front swaybar, wiper fluid tank, radio and speakers, and all the extra lids and covers. Since both headlights have striped gears now I will be removing them from the factory assembly. The AC, HUD, and air bags and insulation under the carpet will also no longer be needed. Will that be enough to offset the bars weight? I have looked over the detailed weight list and can't really find an answer on the airbags and AC weight.

For those who have done this, what steering wheel is a good affordable replacement? I also don't see any reason to keep the exhaust from the xpipe back. Anybody running turndowns or short mufflers off of the xpipe?
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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 10:30 AM
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Before you pull out the head lights, remember that some classes require them. If you're ever thinking you might enter one that does...

The heater box assembly is a good bit of weight to pull out. Once the dash pad is out, there's a lot that can come out.

Manual steering. After market brakes. Light weight battery. Use an ATV battery. Saves at least 20 lbs.

Sounds like you've got a good start on it though.

My coupe is 2900 lbs with out me.
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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 08:27 PM
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the airbags, radio and front speakers are like 25 lbs. - the carpet and padding weighs in at over 45 lbs
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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Capthuff
Before you pull out the head lights, remember that some classes require them. If you're ever thinking you might enter one that does...

The heater box assembly is a good bit of weight to pull out. Once the dash pad is out, there's a lot that can come out.

Manual steering. After market brakes. Light weight battery. Use an ATV battery. Saves at least 20 lbs.

Sounds like you've got a good start on it though.

My coupe is 2900 lbs with out me.
Thanks. There are currently no classes around here I plan on running in that require the headlights. The Super Chevy show has a DOT Class that requires mufflers that I would like to run this year. I have found some cars that had issues with heat busting the rear leaf spring when running the exhaust foward of the rear end but those all seem to be road race cars. Still looking into a way to fit short mufflers with dumps under there. Cant get under there and measure until I get back to land.

I would really like to make one of the LSX races next year but all of them are just too far away. If we can get some of that Jersey Air down this way I might be able to sneak up on that #2 spot on the bolt on list.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 09:55 PM
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As you know, your rotating and parasitic weights dominate the returns compared to the static weights.

I'd be willing to bet that drag brakes and some parasitic focus will provide a higher return than all of the weight you've mentioned.

I'm under 2800lbs (car only) and still retain A/C, HUD, heat, air bags, cd player/speakers....etc......My personal opinion is, if I wanted a car with zero creature comforts, I'd still be driving my '66 Chevy II. One of the only advantages of a late model car IS the creature comforts...IMO.

Here is a pic of my old exhaust system. Full 3" with Dynomax 6" long bullet dumped.
Remember, there is some magic with collector length and pressure waves, Larry Meaux is your friend.




Good luck with your build........

Last edited by LSOHOLIC; Jun 10, 2014 at 09:58 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 05:05 AM
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Thanks for the exhaust pics, that is exactly what I was looking for.


I know the rotating mass is huge but it just isn't in the car budget this year. Brakes and rims and damn pricy. If I had any intention to keep it on the street I would never think of getting rid of the ac but I plan on racing this car for years to come and it will eventually end up a full blown race car one way or another.
With 150k on the clock and closing in on a 3rd season as a bracket car I have a feeling the engine or trans is going to be the next thing to need money thrown at it. Thanks again for all the info. I will keep everyone updated and post some pics of the upcoming mods as well as the bolt ons I did last winter.
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