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I know there's more I can do but on a budget and something quick to get done. Quick rundown. 2001 z06. Cam, fast 102, vararam, auto swap w/ 4k stall, 15" fronts, aluminum 16" t/a wheels out back. No a/c, in the process of going from 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 headers, braille 7# battery, ud pulley, no mufflers for track use. C6z rear shocks and sway bar. No front bar w/ 90/10 shocks. 3.90 gears.
I'm just looking to pick up any little bit I can get. I went 11.06@125 with a soft 1.64 60'. I'm hoping the headers and better track prep will get me in the 10's but it's warmed up alot since my 11.06 pass so idk if DA will let me do it.
Any little weight reduction I can do or something? Eventually will do ewp but don't want to spend that much right now. Thanks for any input
Not budget friendly but.. If you're still on stock heads, I'd do some ported 243s before wasting money on a water pump. You could also run some MR12 fuel straight, that would get you in the 10s.
I wouldn't expect much, if anything from the header swap. Other then gutting the car, not much you can do to go faster without adding power. You can pull the passenger seat out at the track to save 60lbs. That with some MR12 and you're 10.90s.
Whats mr12? I run a mix of 91/110 and pulled the seat last time and that seat was maybe 20-30lbs. Pulling the seats from gto was worth 100lbs total Lol. I don't want to do heads. My block is ****ed up. Going ls2 after I get 10's
Only reason I did 1-7/8 is because my 1-3/4 are kind of cobbled up. The pipe from the collector to xpipe is small and not really smooth flowing. So I might as well get 1-7/8 since I'll get bigger cube later down the road
Yeah I really should have a better 60', I had a 1.51 60' when I was m6 on et streets. I think track prep will get me there though. I like my cam and don't really want to change it again Lol it's my 3rd one. Gonna get the headers on and get it retuned and give her hell. I shift around 7k. Gonna bump it back up to 7300 I think
I have 90/10 Lakewood fronts. What would be a good choice for fronts?
Not sure you need them but show us a launch video and that may help decide.
Low 1.4x's can be had with the stock suspension.
If you are auto now, the right converter/tire combo is more important.
I've been running the stock rear leaf in the rear with dual adjustable Afco coil overs in front with the manual transmission. But unless you are fine tuning, having too much adjustability is not necessarily a good thing esp. if you are not very experienced with shock adjustments.
Yeah I'm gonna have to learn the adjustments. I figured the 255 Hoosier would be about my best bet. I know I should at least be in the 1.5's. I had a 1.51 with the m6 but on bias ply
Yeah I'm gonna have to learn the adjustments. I figured the 255 Hoosier would be about my best bet. I know I should at least be in the 1.5's. I had a 1.51 with the m6 but on bias ply
We'll help!
The 255 50 16 hoosier drag radial is a tire we experimented with many ears ago that seemed to work well for corvettes despite its narrow width and relatively small diameter.
Coupled with a lightweight rim this light dr would produce great 60' times and higher than normal mph despite the fact that it wasn't inteded for out cars. Many of the automatics saw 1.3's after the cars were dialed in without much suspension work. They also tend to wrinkle well which allowed for us to cut some decent 60' times even with the manuals.
Don't be afraid to stretch them out on a wider rim than intedended within reason.
I just have them on a stock firebird wheel right now. Do I want the shocks softer in the back? They have 12 settings. 0 being soft, 12 being stuff. The guy said he liked the setting 2 for drag. I'm sure I'll have to play with it but where should I start?
I just have them on a stock firebird wheel right now. Do I want the shocks softer in the back? They have 12 settings. 0 being soft, 12 being stuff. The guy said he liked the setting 2 for drag. I'm sure I'll have to play with it but where should I start?
If you are talking about rear single adjustable aftermarket shocks on the back of your vette that adjust for compression only I'd probably start around 7-8 and see what happens and adjust from there. This will also depend upon track conditions, rear tire, rear tire pressure, converter, etc.
Shocks are fine tuning and should be dialed in after several other gross adjustments are completed.
Suspension with an auto is much less a priority if you have the right tires on a good prepped track.. (Like Rob said)
Auto cars will go 1.3x 60's no problem on completely stock Z06 suspension, just disconnect the front sway bar links.
Are you not dead hooking and that's why the 60' is slow?
Run the lightest wheels/tires you can.
MR12 is oxygenated, 90 octane fuel, it makes about 8-10% more HP, it helps on the bad DA days. Normally, you would need to add some fuel to your map to get the most out of the MR12 but...I often dump it in and go without retuning on NA cars/bikes..
MR12 straight will net you 20 rwhp I'd bet... Just don't leave it in your tank after you're done racing...Get that stuff out, its real corrosive. Its not real budget friendly either but, its the cheapest 20hp you'll buy.
Yeah I'm spinning pretty bad. It may be track prep too. Where would I buy mr12? I usually just run 100 octane mix. I have the lightest wheel setup I can get for the price. I tried finding some 16" Bogart or Ccw or something but no luck. I just have aluminum 16x8 wheels. I'm going try these qa1 shocks out