ok i'm looking for 10's N/A with my 01z

my last time out this was my best run
60'............. 1.600
330'........... 4.784
660'........... 7.383
660’ mph.....95.45
1000'..........9.610
1320'..........11.489
1320’ mph… 120.72

I also had 11.54 @ 120,96mph, 11.6 @ 119.66 mph shifting at 6500-6600 rpm's the last owner was shifting at 6800 rpm's and was trapping 122.xx mph with a ls7 clutch & 3.42 gear (i swapped to monster stg2 and 3.73)

ET Street 26x11.50x16 bias ply 15psi
Performance Mods:
TSP Lt's, Off road X, cam, 2.5 PRC cnc'd heads, ported fast 92mm,VR Ramair, Monster Stage2, RPM Lv5, Tuned & 3.73

last time out i could not shift over 6600 rpms was getting locked out so i adjusted the clutch and now can shift at 6800 so hopping for a little more mph next time out, I'm shifting a little fast since i swapped from a hurst to a mgw shifter now shifts are smoother. i also have gto spares for up front now those times with my aftermarket wheels

on speedinc's dyno with the ls7/3.42 unported fast 92 it made 430rwhp 390rwtq, have not dyno's it since the ported 92, monster & 3.73

I'm confident I can shave some tenths with my driving, skinnys & higher shift points but is 10's possible or am i dreaming? all the time slips i see in the 10's are 7.0, 7.1 @ the 660' and 123+ mph in the 1/4

your thought? advice?

thanks

 

I've seen 10s at 122 mph, but not too often...the guys with powerglides and 4.33 gears like my son have an easy time doing it though.... never done it myself, but I can go 11.0 at 119 all day.... have gone 10.90s at 125 ish running 1.53 ish 60'.......

 

Yes, 122 MPH is fast enough to run a really high 10. You've got to get the 60' down and the rest of the run will fall into place. It's not a Vette but my 2000 Camaro with 459 to the tires and a raceweight of 3300 pounds ran a string of high 10's @ 122-123 MPH. 1.45-1.47 60'. Yank PT4000 converter was the reason I was able to do this. Didn't have the MPH of a M6 but the ET was certainly there.

 

121mph will be tough to go 10's unless you murder the 60'. (~1.3x)
In good air, and when you and the car are dialed in, you may be trapping 124.
I believe any well setup H/C c5 is capable of 10's in good air.

Not sure what info I gave you in the past but:

when you are ready to make some hard launches the tire pressure should be closer to 12psi
the highest rpm you feel comfortable shifting without hitting the limiter will likely be your best best
find some more power in the tune
4.10 gears will help if possible

You have a chance, but you'll have to work for it and work up to it.

If I had your setup to work with and your goal I'd go in this order.

1) Find some more power with bolt-ons and tune if you can. (things that can net you ~.1)
2)Remove any weight that you don't want/need from the car.(stuff that can net you .05)
3) Go to the strip and focus on shifting at the highest rpm your setup will allow smoothly and confidently without hitting the limiter. You should see your et dropping slowly but consistently each time out and factor in da as well. You want to get your et in the 11.2x range with mild launches in the 1.6's and 1.7's in good air proportionately less in bad air.
4) Only after the car is running strong and shifting is solid and consistent the start working on the launch. The car is capable of 1.4x's as it sits so work toward that by increasing the launch rpm and rate of throttle squeeze a little at a time. I'd go right to 12 psi cold and do quick burnouts with smoke. You must try and keep the clutch as cold as possible and still heat the tires. (There are so many posts and threads I've written on this, please do a search or simply make a new post just for launching when you are ready.)
5) Practice Ranger shifting drills at home.
6) Check the weather, and find a day that will have a high barometer and cool temps and take all your skills and lay them out there.

If you don't follow a priority list like above I don't think you'll get there. The sooner we realize we can improve by operating the car better the quicker the process goes.
You get me a 11.2 on a high 1.6 60' and I'll get you in the 10's. You have some work to do. Goodluck.

 

Those cars are so different from the OP's car that you just can compare them.

 

I'd say yes ... we did it with even less mph @ MIR in 2009

 

Robz, I pulled the car out of storage last week to get back behind the wheel and even though i mostly just been putting around i've been practicing my shifts (trying to shift faster with hand and foot) with the mgw my shifts are smoother and a little fast then before i'm hopping to see the difference in et's,

last year i only made 8 runs with the car but playing with air pressure, burn out time (4 seconds 2nd gear burnout 6000+ rpms worked best at that time) and lunch rpm i was able to lower my 60' from 1.9x to 1.6x (1.60 best) and et's from 11.9 to my 11.48 best but from 11.9x every run was faster so i'm moving in the right direction, with the gto spares, mgw & higher rpms shifter i'm pretty sure i can shave .2 to .3 off my et's this year i'm going to keep a log of weather, tire pressure, launch rpms & shift rpms hoping seeing it on paper will help me get the car and myself on the right track


that gives me hope! awesome pass! nice 60' times

i'm not sure if i can shave .5 off my 1/8 times 6.8x compared to my 7.3x

 

Thanks Stroker87 - that was with the 243 heads and before somebody else got a hold of it ...

Then after changing the cam and going with trickflow 215 heads, here is my best so far N/A for reference



The 10.76 was 414 rwhp (mustang type dyno)

The 10.22 first read 418 rwhp on a pretty stingy mustang dyno ... finally just made it to the tuners and the tuner was able to get the numbers up a bit higher from the 418 to 442 rwhp, I'm hoping it will reflect those numbers with a low 10. 1X or better time will tell but everything on it is fresh and ready to go

Keep going

 

Then start on #2 from the list above without skipping any steps and keep us posted.

 

impressive time slips for the HP #'s are you auto or manual? what gear you running?


i'm more focused on this and hopping what ever records i keep will help me instead of just line up and go kind of what i've been doing, last couple of summer i've learned what felt good on the street didnt work well on the track

 

HP #'s don't tell all IMHO - mph is a better indicator of HP...
I am guessing that with a 10 - 15% difference in dyno's that I am pretty close to that 500 rwhp mark from a dyno jet either way, i'm really only interested in the gains of before and after the tune.

auto
3:73 gears
346 Ci SBE
3800 yank PA series (I also can spray)
bogart drag package
EWP
fast 92
TF 215's
light battery
seat removed
floor mats and everything else that can come out of the compartments are removed, still has air conditioning, radio, airbags etc.

took it out in November and ran a bunch of 10:3x's 10.40's before the tune which was 418 rwhp
It's pretty consistent

also has the extra weight from roll bar

 

OP are you using a pedal stop? Might help shift even quicker if you aren't using one.

 

not sure what a peddle stop is?

I have a tickmaster adjustable master so clutch peddle travel is less then stock, I swapped over to a MGW shifter from a hurst and am shifting a little faster

i've been looking at a lot of 10 second pass slips all the ones i seen the cars ran right around 7.00 or under in the 1/8th mile my car with a 1.60 60ft ran 7.38 so i really need to work on my hole shot and shifting for sure it get my 1/8 times down

 

It mounts to the clutch pedal so you don't have to lift it as far when you shift. ECS sells one. But you don't need it with the Tick Master.

 

You will need to be in the 123-124 range and mid 1.4s to see tens. That is achievable.
Good luck.

 

I plan on having the car re-tuned so i'm kicking around the idea of doing a re-cam been less then 10k miles since the h/c/i with all the other goodies that go along with it so thinking just a cam, gaskets & crank bolt ($500 extra) my labor to pick up 20+ rwhp

i got about 30 days til the track opens to see where i stand since i now have skinnys, mgw and can shift higher hopping it can at least get me in the 11.2 or faster area

 

I have a custom cam and springs NIB that I spec'd out for a 346 that wants to fly.

 

this is my summer daily so need to keep drivablity in mind when picking out a cam, the cam you have if its max effort i have to pass if its ok for a DD let me know the specs?

the currant cam was installed by the last owner with the intentions of going FI 219/230 606/605 117lsa, I been asking around and almost every one told me if i swap cams i should be able to pick up 20+ @ the wheels

 

The cam you have now should have excellent drivability characteristics based on those specs. Other cams designed for better N/A performance will not drive like this one.

 

Why change the cam at all? Plenty of stock internal cars have broke into the 10's. I'm sure with a few more minor tweeks you can get the job done.