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I KNOW I need shocks.
What shocks are working for mainly street, rarely strip action?
I'm running MT 305/35/18s DRs. They don't hookup, even in 3rd with a decent burnout. I've ran them down to 18#s, but leery about going lower until I hear from others that have. I know its because I have no weight transfer, so that's why I'm asking about shocks. Bilsteins all the way around. Great for corners, but off the line, terrible. Car stays flat.
Another problem is, I'm also a 6sp and I am aware it will be hard to get the DRs to stay hooked up, especially at the launch and gear change. I don't dump the clutch. I roll quickly into it. Yes, I also am aware that I may have to go to bias ply slicks because they work better with a manual, but I really like the DRs for the daily driving stability.
I would really like to use the N2O, but as is, no way.
Also, sway bar(s) disconnect?
Coupe, all forged ls6, Ported heads, 85MM TB, .650 TSP cam. dual disk McLeod clutch, M12 trans, 4.10s
Sure there are guys with Penske double adjustables running 7's on street legal Vette's and CTS-V's but it doesn't sound like you need that. Just look for rebound and compression adjustment at a minimum.
On my 01Z, I used the Lakewood 90/10 shocks on the front. I drove that car a lot on the street and track. No front sway bar. I'm not an aggressive corner burner, but I didn't notice any issues with handling. I had stock shocks on the rear of that car.
Currently, I have single adjustable QA-1 shocks on all for corners with stock springs. This car is not a street car, track only.
I know it's hard to convince people of this, but the stock suspension is very good for most applications, and has been mid 1.3 to the 60' mark by an experienced driver. If you're not getting the launch you'd like, it's more likely the driver, than the car.
And, 18psi is about the lowest I'd go with a drag radial tire. Especially one with very little sidewall.
You know the bias ply tire will help you out... Make that switch and get back to us.
on the street i'm using some nitto 555r's 22 psi 456rwhp 401rwtq n/a + 125 shot and 40mph they hook pretty good on my zo6 stock suspension, it transfers pretty decent at the track with my dias ply's consistent 1.50-1.56 60ft's
are you at 18psi hot or cold? maybe it is the Bilsteins? if you have your stock shocks i'd put the fronts back on and see how it gos or maybe pick up some stock zo6 front shocks?
Maybe not as popular as some of the bigger name brands, but you might look into a set of Viking coilovers. They're double adjustable, made in USA (ex-employees of QA) and quite reasonable. I've read good reviews on them here on CF too. The reviews looked good enough for me to buy a set and we'll be installing them next week. From what I've read, you can use them for super soft street to hard core drag racing. Just twist that dial... Can save a little weight as well since you can remove the leaf springs. True independent suspension.
Just remembered one more thing. Viking also offers double adjustable shocks as well and if I remember correctly, they're about ½ the price of the coilovers.
How much power are you producing? I find it odd you can't hook 3rd.
First check the date code of the tires...if more than two years old replace. As others have mentioned a set of coil overs and a larger sway bar for the rear will help. Have an alignment done and focus on straight line traction, zero camber and minimal toe.
If all that doesn't help, replace 4.10 gears. Those gears combined with the MN12 trans produce very low gear ratios.
Originally Posted by Coc5
I KNOW I need shocks.
What shocks are working for mainly street, rarely strip action?
I'm running MT 305/35/18s DRs. They don't hookup, even in 3rd with a decent burnout. I've ran them down to 18#s, but leery about going lower until I hear from others that have. I know its because I have no weight transfer, so that's why I'm asking about shocks. Bilsteins all the way around. Great for corners, but off the line, terrible. Car stays flat.
Another problem is, I'm also a 6sp and I am aware it will be hard to get the DRs to stay hooked up, especially at the launch and gear change. I don't dump the clutch. I roll quickly into it. Yes, I also am aware that I may have to go to bias ply slicks because they work better with a manual, but I really like the DRs for the daily driving stability.
I would really like to use the N2O, but as is, no way.
Also, sway bar(s) disconnect?
Coupe, all forged ls6, Ported heads, 85MM TB, .650 TSP cam. dual disk McLeod clutch, M12 trans, 4.10s
Shocks for Drag racing and setup advice
