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Well i am happy to report that i finally got my car sorted out.
Over the winter i replaced my worn out Monster Stage 3 single disk clutch with Monster LT1-S (with 28lb flywheel for street)
Also installed untouched FAST 90/LS2 TB and switched to TR6 plugs gapped @ .035
Final dyno #s were 440 rwhp 402 rwtq
The car rips after 3500 rpm.
As i suspected i believe my old clutch was the culprit for low TQ numbers.
Well i am happy to report that i finally got my car sorted out.
Over the winter i replaced my worn out Monster Stage 3 single disk clutch with Monster LT1-S (with 28lb flywheel for street)
Also installed untouched FAST 90/LS2 TB and switched to TR6 plugs gapped @ .035
Final dyno #s were 440 rwhp 402 rwtq
The car rips after 3500 rpm.
As i suspected i believe my old clutch was the culprit for low TQ numbers.
Glad you got it figured out, but damn that is one ugly dyno sheet.
Not sure about the dip in the chart but the car is a riot. Put about 200 mi today and had a blast. Didn't notice any issues. Definitely feel more power past 4k rpm
Not sure about the dip in the chart but the car is a riot. Put about 200 mi today and had a blast. Didn't notice any issues. Definitely feel more power past 4k rpm
This is why I don't care for big cams like that as they are very "peaky"
I've seen big cams perform very well on the street and strip even if you can't maximize power under the curve.
It's important to have the rest of the setup dialed in as well and complimentary and to at least make sure you are in the proper rpm band.
Good work and nice numbers! Glad to see the clutch works great.
Trying to pull my car out of storage early, have a couple of things I want to do.
Catch up with you soon (If I can... )
Good work and nice numbers! Glad to see the clutch works great.
Trying to pull my car out of storage early, have a couple of things I want to do.
Catch up with you soon (If I can... )
Thanks Mike, the clutch worked out great! Hope to see you around.
Always, ALWAYS pick a cam as a COMBINATION of what you have... if you don't optimize your set up for what you have, nothing will work right..
Ive seen guys plop in the biggest cam they can find.... ignore everything else....... and get Stomped by the guy that just did some research and optimized what they had.
I agree with Robz......I think your pull should have gone way past 7,000 rpm for a cam in the 230-240 duration range. in the last graph the pull stops just before 6,500 rpm..... if it were me, I'd go until the graph "dropped off" to see how far the cam keeps the power up..... and that "dip" really does need to be sorted out. its in both pulls so something is there like Scotty suggested.
Always, ALWAYS pick a cam as a COMBINATION of what you have... if you don't optimize your set up for what you have, nothing will work right..
Ive seen guys plop in the biggest cam they can find.... ignore everything else....... and get Stomped by the guy that just did some research and optimized what they had.
I agree with Robz......I think your pull should have gone way past 7,000 rpm for a cam in the 230-240 duration range. in the last graph the pull stops just before 6,500 rpm..... if it were me, I'd go until the graph "dropped off" to see how far the cam keeps the power up..... and that "dip" really does need to be sorted out. its in both pulls so something is there like Scotty suggested.
I see this all the time. I don't understand why people stop short? I pull my bolt on set up to 7,000 as well as shift at 7,000 at the track.
Last edited by Scotty2000SS; 04-10-2018 at 11:44 AM.
I see this all the time. I don't understand why people stop short? I pull my bolt on set up to 7,000 as well as shift at 7,000 at the track.
For anyone whose interested in maximizing power under the curve as much as possible.
You want to to start by designing your build with the specific needed parts that can handle the rpm band that the cam and setup will place you in.
Most of the time you won't be able to maximize the PUC but its best to at least try and approach upon it. These LS motors like rpm and most of the time people cannot shift high enough to get the full benefit for various reasons.
Here's a link to a a cam only ls6 setup where in a perfect world the car needed to be shifted @ 8000rpms. Due to risk of failure I was not willing to do so. It still ran great because everything else was in line and I selectively pushed the envelope on a few occasions where I felt I could get away with it. The car saw 7650+ rpms through the traps in competition.
See post #90 https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ossible-5.html
I see this all the time. I don't understand why people stop short? I pull my bolt on set up to 7,000 as well as shift at 7,000 at the track.
Mine was done at 6500 and was nosing over at 6500, I expressed to the cam grinder this is what I wanted.
Plans were to continue to road course the car and I like the flat torque the LS6 cam provided everywhere. I told the cam guy I wanted the new cam to make the exact same curve as the LS6 only higher, I didn't want to give up power down low to get it on the top.
He delivered for sure, car is a ball to drive and has nice torque everywhere. For a stock head port and stock intake car it does pretty well IMO.
At the drag strip I do shift it at 7000, road course I will stick shifting at 6000.
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 04-11-2018 at 11:21 AM.
Mine was done at 6500 and was nosing over at 6500, I expressed to the cam grinder this is what I wanted.
Plans were to continue to road course the car and I like the flat torque the LS6 cam provided everywhere. I told the cam guy I wanted the new cam to make the exact same curve as the LS6 only higher, I didn't want to give up power down low to get it on the top.
He delivered for sure, car is a ball to drive and has nice torque everywhere. For a stock head port and stock intake car it does pretty well IMO.
At the drag strip I do shift it at 7000, road course I will stick shifting at 6000.
Here's the graph from my bolt on set up. Stock cam.
03-29-2018, 08:32 AM
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