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You need a tire to get any type of accurate reading.
Weight and track conditions will play a significant role.
MPH is significantly influenced by driver despite what people think.
PUC will have a much greater impact than peak hp on et and mph on a drag strip.
Clutch type can/will influence mph.
Many other factors play a role too and they all add up to make the difference.
That's why one car with 700whp may trap 130mph and another may trap 150mph.
You need a tire to get any type of accurate reading.
Weight and track conditions will play a significant role.
MPH is significantly influenced by driver despite what people think.
PUC will have a much greater impact than peak hp on et and mph on a drag strip.
Clutch type can/will influence mph.
Many other factors play a role too and they all add up to make the difference.
That's why one car with 700whp may trap 130mph and another may trap 150mph.
Running a stick, I can't leave on boost (haven't been serious enough about it to run a 2-step), so that hurts me a bit.
FLT level VI 4L65E . I’ve got a PTC converter that I can foot brake to 3800 and I had my tuner mess with the tune on the 2 step. I can build a few lbs on a cold tire on the street. I haven’t tried at the track with a sticky tire. I’d be content foot braking 5lbs of boost for me to leave with. I didn’t make it to the track this year with my most recent tune
Better/bigger rear brakes will help on the foot brake.
I added a set of strange single caliper drag brakes. It did help a little but not like I was hoping. There’s not much for brakes for a 16” wheel. I haven’t been to the track yet to see the exact results. Just a little alley testing. I left the factory booster on. I do have the strange manual master but haven’t put it on