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Recently did quite a bit of work to my convertible, started with a trans repair, 2nd gear synchro, and turned I to a cam and head swap.
car is 6 speed 47k miles on it Stock LS1 bottom end
243 heads milled .030” with .051 head gaskets
TSP 228R camshaft, pushrods and double spring kit.
new lifters, stock rocker arms with Che Precision trunnion upgrade kit.
Speed engineering long tube headers careless x pipe and mid America mufflers
Stock intake, throttle body, injectors and MAF.
3.42 gears.
It’s a pretty humid day today, we have had a run of rain and it is in the 80’s.
The adjusted number 403/403 with a smooth power curve and great pull. I know it’s dirty, has been parked for a while and needs a bath.
Last edited by SeanyB; Sep 4, 2020 at 01:31 PM.
Reason: Forgot something
Nice. How close to maximizing the MAF and stock injectors are you?
80-85% duty cycle in the injectors, tuner recommendation is to get a fast intake and throttle body to wake it up some more. I did not port the 243 heads, doing that along with an intake and tb combo could bring it closer to 450hp. I didn’t ask about the MAF but I am sure the stock one could be replaced.
I know changing wheel and tire sized can add or remove rolling weight, I took the car to the tuner with the 20x12 CCW wheels with 315/30/20 tires in the rear. I decided to start cleaning those wheels up today so i put the stock wheels back on. I weighed the tears for my own information and the difference is substantial. 20 inch setup weighed almost 61 pounds each, while the stock 5 spoke 18s and 275 tires weighed 49 pounds each. I don’t think that adds any real HP or torque but it definitely changes the way the car drives and acceleration from a stop. Stock 5 spoke with 275/40/18 Nitto 555 CCW 505a with 315/30/20 Nitto 555
MAF should be fine. Stock clutch? Once I hit 430whp level, my stock clutch was worthless and started sticking to the floor after 1 or 2 hard, high rpm shifts. Real buzz kill.
MAF should be fine. Stock clutch? Once I hit 430whp level, my stock clutch was worthless and started sticking to the floor after 1 or 2 hard, high rpm shifts. Real buzz kill.
yes stock clutch, new install last month when I had the trans out for repairs.
Did you do remote bleeder for the slave cylinder? That might be your only saving grace if you're going to push it further on stock clutch.
I did add the remote bleeder when I replaced the clutch. The original plan was to replace the clutch and get the transmission fixed. I added headers and thought that was going to be it for a while but the cam/head swap package kind of landed in my lap after I had already installed the LUK clutch kit. When it burns up I will find an upgraded clutch.
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04 Base tune and dyno
