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From the photos it looks like the end cap was not completely seated otherwise all the threads would have been damaged.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Y-KijwYaziM/TJ...I/Accusump.JPG |
Originally Posted by Joe_Knesek
(Post 1575337670)
From the photos it looks like the end cap was not completely seated otherwise all the threads would have been damaged.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Y-KijwYaziM/TJ...I/Accusump.JPG I'll send it back to canton, I imagine I'll have to pay for a new cylinder, but after that its staying on a shelf or getting sold. Maybe one of you accusump fans would like one? |
Originally Posted by mgarfias
(Post 1575337197)
Aha! someone answers the question. I know of two cars on the west coast that trade off for wins. Oli and Ryan0 here, neither runs with the accusump. Ryan is still running his original 01Z motor.
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Why is outside of cylinder deformed / dented? I cannot imagine the force required to blow those threads if it was installed properly and the safety factor in design has to be huge also.
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I have used these before. I had a well known engine builder throw this out to me. You are in a long constant left your accusump kept your engine from oil starving you exit the corner & charge down the straight going through the gears. Your oil pump is busy replenishing the accumulator pushing the piston back. Only so much volume . He had seen wear from this. Couldn't get to the 10psi/1000 in time. It is way better than completely starving the bearings . A pan that works for these cars would be nice.. I just tried to put the Milodon pan on a car the pieces in the box didn't even fit together.
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Originally Posted by mgarfias
(Post 1575337197)
Aha! someone answers the question. I know of two cars on the west coast that trade off for wins. Oli and Ryan0 here, neither runs with the accusump. Ryan is still running his original 01Z motor.
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Originally Posted by John B
(Post 1575340969)
I have used these before. I had a well known engine builder throw this out to me. You are in a long constant left your accusump kept your engine from oil starving you exit the corner & charge down the straight going through the gears. Your oil pump is busy replenishing the accumulator pushing the piston back. Only so much volume . He had seen wear from this. Couldn't get to the 10psi/1000 in time. It is way better than completely starving the bearings . A pan that works for these cars would be nice.. I just tried to put the Milodon pan on a car the pieces in the box didn't even fit together.
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Originally Posted by L98Terror
(Post 1575341088)
Not any more, word from Miller is Ryan blew his motor Yesterday:willy:
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Originally Posted by mgarfias
(Post 1575341514)
Damn. Well, it was 10 years old. And he ran it with a blower. Lets find out why it blew up before we jump to conclusions shall we?
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Originally Posted by L98Terror
(Post 1575348626)
No conclusions just he is no long running his original engine
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Originally Posted by L98Terror
(Post 1575341088)
Not any more, word from Miller is Ryan blew his motor Yesterday:willy:
this winter I will hook up a light to see when it is working. |
I'll be curious when I autopsy mine to see what damage was done.
98 LS1 with 174,000 miles, the last 40,000 severe duty. |
Originally Posted by Fastguy
(Post 1575442391)
I'll be curious when I autopsy mine to see what damage was done.
98 LS1 with 174,000 miles, the last 40,000 severe duty. |
Originally Posted by John Shiels
(Post 1575348804)
ten years :willy: how many track miles?
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I had a friend in vintage racing that had an accusump with a manual ball valve mounted on the floor where the passenger seat used to be. It served him well for years until he blew an engine. The failure was not related to oil starvation. The problem came when he replaced the engine and forgot to flush the accusump. He filled his new engine with chips from the old engine. :ack:
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would it be worth it installing one of these on a LS7 for start up pre lube ?
will it work on a dry sump. |
As far as I know this will work on a dry sump, just plan the plumbing properly. It is a lot of work for pre-oiling.
Has anyone logged their oil pressures in a C5 to determine the need for this? I haven't gotten below 38 psi on 255 A6s, and I supposedly pull ~1.5g on turn in and sustain ~1.45g (according to my recently recalibrated Race Tech. DL-1). I only get momentary pressure drops on very sharp turns (such as heading to the tunnel turn from the infield at Pocono aka devil's elbow). I'm intersted to see if it takes big stickies (T1 size A6s) to cause an issue, or if I am just skating on the edge. I'd also be interested to see oil pressure vs. voltage readings if anyone has mapped them (esp to 60 psi). I went up to 50 and did not end up with a straight line. |
Wow ????
Don't know about Accusump and hate to throw stones, but Moroso HD is pretty beefy unit. REAL hard to worry much about it unless you fiddle around taking it apart. Advantages? The pressure issue aside, it gives extra three quarts of oil? lubes at start ups & lower temps if you cycle any in or out. Its adjustable and if you can live with a handle, always online? Disadvantages?? messy when you cross threads the things? we put our unit in the door, of course this is a track only car. http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...LEEXTENDED.jpg had to move the air gauge though http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...9/AIRGAUGE.jpg Bored when the engine blew up so we had to do something on Saturdays? TJM |
The accusump debate has been raging for years. There are people who "know" and people who "don't know" on both sides of the fence. There are experts and race champions that swear by them and people with the same pedigrees that say they kill motors.
In theory they work great, but I've heard enough stories of blown motors with them to convince me that they are not foolproof. Nothing is. I like the comment back on page one that suggests if you have oil pressure issues fix the problem. Personally, I run one with a manual switch. I pressurize the motor, start the car, and leave the valve open until I pull off the track. I bought it because years ago when I was a noob I read on the internet it was a good idea. I've never blown my motor, but have no proof that it had anything to do with the Accusump. Would I buy one now? Don't know. But I'll keep using the one I have. If you believe it works, buy one. if you don't, don't waste your money. No amount of people bickering about it and acting like they are the difinitive word on Accusumps is going to change whether it does or does not work. On a more important note, George where did you get your LS1? I need one, too. |
Originally Posted by ScaryFast
(Post 1578714833)
The accusump debate has been raging for years. There are people who "know" and people who "don't know" on both sides of the fence. There are experts and race champions that swear by them and people with the same pedigrees that say they kill motors.
In theory they work great, but I've heard enough stories of blown motors with them to convince me that they are not foolproof. Nothing is. I like the comment back on page one that suggests if you have oil pressure issues fix the problem. Personally, I run one with a manual switch. I pressurize the motor, start the car, and leave the valve open until I pull off the track. I bought it because years ago when I was a noob I read on the internet it was a good idea. I've never blown my motor, but have no proof that it had anything to do with the Accusump. Would I buy one now? Don't know. But I'll keep using the one I have. If you believe it works, buy one. if you don't, don't waste your money. No amount of people bickering about it and acting like they are the difinitive word on Accusumps is going to change whether it does or does not work. On a more important note, George where did you get your LS1? I need one, too. The manual switch is key in my experience. Not to slam Canton or Moroso but the electrical stuff is not what can be called race duty. I would recommend the Manual handle, make a remote control if you have too. DEFINITELY the back flow valve. That is a must. Without that you could end up re-pressurizing the vacated lines in the plumbing. IMHO that is a problem with a lot of installs. It is not automatically included [ should be?]. The electrics are just a weak link waiting to break. TJM |
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