Tach Cable
 

Rebuilt everything in and on my engine including distributor and dog gonnit my tach cable broke how big of a PITA is it to replace the cable? :mad

Re: Tach Cable (micks69)
 

Not bad. The only real pain is getting it through the fire wall.

Re: Tach Cable (BLT-71)
 

The hole doesnt seem big enough to get the through does the cable come with the ends on it?

Re: Tach Cable (micks69)
 

If you are trying to replace both the inner and the outer get set for some serious fiddling......if you are only replacing the inner and can "feed it through"from the distributor end,it isnt so bad.......good luck....john :chevy

Re: Tach Cable (jdunne)
 

John
tthanks for the heads up i didnt realize it came in two pieces the outer casing and inner wire i presume?

Re: Tach Cable (micks69)
 

That's it,same as the speedo cable.......if you are inserting the inner pass it through some good lube as you install it.......john :chevy

Re: Tach Cable (micks69)
 

Make sure it's not the gear inside your distributor. To avoid such a mishap, lube the cable gear well before insertion into the distributor.

Re: Tach Cable (Dave68)
 

My cable broke last year. I ordered (Eckler's) one of the adaptors so that the cable doesn't need to bend almost 90 degrees at the distributor. That's where mine broke and is a common stress point. Now the cable has no stress on it. Certainly isn't "stock", but if you want the cable to last....I'd recommend it. Can't recall the price exactly, but think it was give or take $40.
Also, I couldn't find a '68 cable at the time. The replacement I used is actually a '67 cable, which is a couple of inches longer than the factory '68 ('69 cables don't fit apparently). With the adaptor though, it makes no real difference.

Re: Tach Cable (jdunne)
 

Serious fiddling is correct.....But it is not Too bad of a job!!

Re: Tach Cable (micks69)
 

Just finished replacing mine last night ... both the inner and outer piece. Not too bad, also replaced the firewall grommet...

Re: Tach Cable (micks69)
 

Micks69 -- Make sure the end of your replacement tach cable correctly and fully seats into the drive on the back of the tach. It will insert 1/8" or more into the drive. Lots of people miss this when replacing speedo and tach cables, then wonder why gauge needles won't move.
:)

Re: Tach Cable (Dave68)
 

The tach quite working on my 71. I disconnected it at the distributor and spun the cable by hand. The tach worked then. I suspect it is the gear in the distributor. How do you get to the gear in the distributor? Any helpful tips would be greatly apprietiated.

Re: Tach Cable (Tom Johnson)
 

Remove cable from distributor, unscrew big bronze coupler. The gear and a thrust bearing ( washer ) will either come out with the coupler, or can be seen and pulled out by hand ... real simple.

Re: Tach Cable (Tom Johnson)
 

Tom -- if you've chewed up a tach drive gear, you have probably chewed up the teeth on the distributor shaft. Damage to one usually results in damage to the other. You should not be surprised to discover you need a replacement cross shaft gear and distributor shaft. If you can get needle flutter by spinning the cable end, you know the cable is good and not at fault.
:)

Re: Tach Cable (Tom Johnson)
 

Tom,

I might also add that if you have never taken apart your distributor to replace the gear (or otherwise), you want to ask someone who has, for assistance. A factory assembly manual really helps, as it shows the sequence of assembly and often includes assembly "notes". The two things I remember most when I did mine, were 1) to watch the rotor as you remove the distributor - it will probably rotate a bit as you are lifting. Sketch its position before and after the distributor is removed and 2) make sure there is a little bit of play in the vertical movement of the bronze gear. A good manual will give you the range of play to shoot for. All-in-all, I'd say the job was fairly easy; just take your time.

Good luck.

Re: Tach Cable (Dave68)
 

Good advice from Dave68. The rotor WILL move as the distributor is lifted. Before removing it, bring #1 to top dead center on the compression stroke. Leave the engine in that position while the distributor is out of the block. After you have rebuilt the distributor, point the rotor between the #3 and #5 cylinders. This is a touchie-feelie thing, but the position is approximately between the two cylinders. It's easier to eyeball than to explain. The rotor should turn toward the #1 position (to the right) when you lower the distributor into the block. :)

Re: Tach Cable (micks69)
 

Thanks for every ones help wasnt too awful :cry bad. Replaced everything "do it right the first time" cheaper than doing it twice.
Thanks for everyones input. Great driving day today in Cleveland, Ohio (yes Cleveland) 65 and sunny got the top down and drove all day!

Re: Tach Cable (micks69)
 

Ok, now you're just making those of us further north....jealous!!