Tach Cable
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 963
Likes: 0
From: melbourne,Australia
Re: Tach Cable (micks69)
If you are trying to replace both the inner and the outer get set for some serious fiddling......if you are only replacing the inner and can "feed it through"from the distributor end,it isnt so bad.......good luck....john :chevy
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 0
From: Ajax Ontario
Re: Tach Cable (Dave68)
My cable broke last year. I ordered (Eckler's) one of the adaptors so that the cable doesn't need to bend almost 90 degrees at the distributor. That's where mine broke and is a common stress point. Now the cable has no stress on it. Certainly isn't "stock", but if you want the cable to last....I'd recommend it. Can't recall the price exactly, but think it was give or take $40.
Also, I couldn't find a '68 cable at the time. The replacement I used is actually a '67 cable, which is a couple of inches longer than the factory '68 ('69 cables don't fit apparently). With the adaptor though, it makes no real difference.
Also, I couldn't find a '68 cable at the time. The replacement I used is actually a '67 cable, which is a couple of inches longer than the factory '68 ('69 cables don't fit apparently). With the adaptor though, it makes no real difference.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 43,136
Likes: 155
From: Thomson Georgia
Re: Tach Cable (jdunne)
If you are trying to replace both the inner and the outer get set for some serious fiddling......if you are only replacing the inner and can "feed it through"from the distributor end,it isnt so bad.......good luck....john :chevy
Serious fiddling is correct.....But it is not Too bad of a job!!
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Tach Cable (micks69)
Micks69 -- Make sure the end of your replacement tach cable correctly and fully seats into the drive on the back of the tach. It will insert 1/8" or more into the drive. Lots of people miss this when replacing speedo and tach cables, then wonder why gauge needles won't move.
:)
:)
Pro
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 552
Likes: 0
From: Oneida WI
Re: Tach Cable (Dave68)
The tach quite working on my 71. I disconnected it at the distributor and spun the cable by hand. The tach worked then. I suspect it is the gear in the distributor. How do you get to the gear in the distributor? Any helpful tips would be greatly apprietiated.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 667
Likes: 3
From: College Station TX
Re: Tach Cable (Tom Johnson)
Remove cable from distributor, unscrew big bronze coupler. The gear and a thrust bearing ( washer ) will either come out with the coupler, or can be seen and pulled out by hand ... real simple.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Tach Cable (Tom Johnson)
Tom -- if you've chewed up a tach drive gear, you have probably chewed up the teeth on the distributor shaft. Damage to one usually results in damage to the other. You should not be surprised to discover you need a replacement cross shaft gear and distributor shaft. If you can get needle flutter by spinning the cable end, you know the cable is good and not at fault.
:)
:)
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
Re: Tach Cable (Tom Johnson)
Tom,
I might also add that if you have never taken apart your distributor to replace the gear (or otherwise), you want to ask someone who has, for assistance. A factory assembly manual really helps, as it shows the sequence of assembly and often includes assembly "notes". The two things I remember most when I did mine, were 1) to watch the rotor as you remove the distributor - it will probably rotate a bit as you are lifting. Sketch its position before and after the distributor is removed and 2) make sure there is a little bit of play in the vertical movement of the bronze gear. A good manual will give you the range of play to shoot for. All-in-all, I'd say the job was fairly easy; just take your time.
Good luck.
I might also add that if you have never taken apart your distributor to replace the gear (or otherwise), you want to ask someone who has, for assistance. A factory assembly manual really helps, as it shows the sequence of assembly and often includes assembly "notes". The two things I remember most when I did mine, were 1) to watch the rotor as you remove the distributor - it will probably rotate a bit as you are lifting. Sketch its position before and after the distributor is removed and 2) make sure there is a little bit of play in the vertical movement of the bronze gear. A good manual will give you the range of play to shoot for. All-in-all, I'd say the job was fairly easy; just take your time.
Good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Tach Cable (Dave68)
Good advice from Dave68. The rotor WILL move as the distributor is lifted. Before removing it, bring #1 to top dead center on the compression stroke. Leave the engine in that position while the distributor is out of the block. After you have rebuilt the distributor, point the rotor between the #3 and #5 cylinders. This is a touchie-feelie thing, but the position is approximately between the two cylinders. It's easier to eyeball than to explain. The rotor should turn toward the #1 position (to the right) when you lower the distributor into the block. :)
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 3
From: Greensboro NC
Re: Tach Cable (micks69)
Thanks for every ones help wasnt too awful :cry bad. Replaced everything "do it right the first time" cheaper than doing it twice.
Thanks for everyones input. Great driving day today in Cleveland, Ohio (yes Cleveland) 65 and sunny got the top down and drove all day!
Thanks for everyones input. Great driving day today in Cleveland, Ohio (yes Cleveland) 65 and sunny got the top down and drove all day!
