Confused about fan wiring.
 

Here we have a Ford Taurus fan I want to use for my Vette. It's a puller fan, with the same motor as a MarkVIII fan. It has a shroud and fan diameter about an inch smaller than the MarkVIII fan.

What's confusing me is the wiring. There are three wires coming from the plug. All black. One solid black, one with an orange stripe, and one with a yellow stripe.

I'm guessing the black is ground, and you see it splits and goes down into the motor housing from the other side as well.

The black and yellow stays at the top of the motor and the black and orange follows the split ground to the bottom.

When hooking this fan motor up will will have a power wire coming from the controller and a ground.

Which of the two, orange and yellow, are the power wires I will need to use if not both? Will I use both? I'm guessing it's a variable speed fan and that both energize the motor but from different sides.

Should I just splice them together as one power wire?

Thanks.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...aurusFan01.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...aurusFan02.jpg

Use the black for ground and test each of the other 2 wires with 12v to see what it does, I figure its a 2 speed fan. but no telling if it uses both wires or just 1 for each speed. Test it on a battery and see what it does

IF it was indeed a 2 speed fan, I would be very surprised to find the other speed coming outta the motor from another spot....

I have to assume that is a sensor of some type....maybe check with a DVM as to who is home....for one thing most motors are permanent magnet these daze so you can just hang the dvm off the wires in question flip the blades and see who generates voltage....THAT is your motor armature....

black to ground, the other wire going into the motor is for sure ONE power lead....still bet the other is a sensor .....

Does it matter which way the blade is spinning? It's a directional fan blade and usually the brushes are designed to work best when spun one way. If spun backwards they wear very fast. Would it still generate voltage spun in both directions?

Seems like it might be a fan speed sensor - is this setup normally PWM driven? That might be the feedback. That said it looks a bit thick to be a sensor wire, almost looks like another power feed, by the gauge. Or that may just be my eyes!

Common sense tells me the black/yellow is the main power simply because it heads into the centre of the motor pack. Can you not see exactly where this orange fella goes?
Gene's method of spinning the motor and checking for a voltage is nice.
That should tell you for sure which one's the motor feed, but like I say I'd bet you, oooh, at least a quid its the yellow one. :D

Definitive answer = wiring diagram for a Taurus!

What happens if I spin the fan and test for voltage and they both have voltage. Does that mean they are both power wires and I should splice them together? I will be using a PWM controller but the power wire to the fan is a single, not a pair.

Okay, both are power wires. One is high speed and one is low speed.

This complicates things. Do I splice them together or just use only high speed once I figure out which one that is?

More info. The yellow/black is the high speed wire and this is the only one used. If you splice the orange/black to the yellow/black it will spin faster than slow but slower than fast...if that makes sense.

This means that no matter the controller, only the yellow/black will be used.

Thanks for the help. :thumbs:

I'm not sure what Ford was thinking with the wiring on these fans. My Mk.VIII fan has three wires, but only uses two - both power wires behave exactly the same.

DO NOT splice them together, instant smoke.....

only ONE or the other depending.....

wonder why they bothered....need fast speed for any a/c work, need fast speed for off freeway into traffic mode....can't see the need for any slo speed, ever....got me on that one....

just as I can't see the need for a variable speed contoller,

I can see the need for a current limiting series resistor to mediate the surge to the alt when the fans turn on...but WTF, it's ok on MY car....

so let it surge....

so far for last 8 months or so, everyone seems happy enough even here in Florida....

No that doesnt make sense:willy:

Ford fans are conventional, run of the mill, 12vdc, 2 wire fans (not sure what you mean by "I'm guessing it's a variable speed fan and that both energize the motor but from different sides"):crazy: . They are controlled by the PCM. theoUK has it right, the 2 wires going into the motor are the two wires you need.

If you are going to do these Ebay conversions, you should get a manual to see how it's wired. Ebay has those also.

I didn't get the fan off of Ebay I got it out of a salvage yard.

Also, the information I was posting above is what I read off of other forums written by guys that have installed these fans and done the wiring. Some didn't work and some did work. One guy, who installed it in a Jeep, said that the Yellow provided the fastest speed. The orange was slower. If you spliced them together as one power wire it was in essence a medium speed. I have no idea why or how it's wired...that's kind of why I posted this thread in the first place.

:rofl: DB - There is something inherintly wrong with using a Ford fan on a Chevy!!!!

Maybe, but I don't know any chevy fans that can suck like a hoover :lol: I'm running a ford MK8 fan on my big block. Working out the wiring tonight and tomorrow. These damn Ford engineers sure liked to make things as confusing as possible.

I really don't care that it's a Ford fan. It moves just as much air as dual Spals, it has it's own shroud, it fits a Corvette radiator very well, and it only cost me $25 or so from a salvage yard.

Maybe Ford just used very efficient single fans.

Matt, can you post a pix of just how that fan fits the vette rad??

nice if you could do it outta the car, is not, top/sides/bottom, I kind of curious as to it's performance in the car too, what engine you have, and how it behaves on the freeway at say 80, what tranny/gears you have .....but weather is quite a bit cooler now, so I suspect nothing wuld be a fair comparo to the 100f weather we endured last summer....

I ask about freeway speeds on account of the spals have those rubber flapper doors in there for passing increased air at high speeds, but they close for fan suction when stopped/slo.....

I will post pics as I get further along in the install. I'll start a new thread for it so just keep a watch out for it. :thumbs:

db
how about using a standard 5 pin relay(2 coil, one normally closed, one normally open, one input common) wire slow speed to n/c and high to n/o. that way when the coil is not energized, it will run on slow, and when energized it will run on high. use other controller to turn it completely off. did this on my spal unit (blue wire override feature for when the a/c is used) to turn the fans on when it runs hot.
jeff

I actually have a DCC PWM controller to use, and it will vary the fan speed based on temp. I almost used your very same idea with the relays but decided to go with a DCC for ultimate control.

I was really just confused about the wiring Ford set this fan up with and didn't understand the purpose of the two power wires.

Knowing the yellow is the high speed wire is key. That's the power wire the controller will run to.

Thanks for the help everyone.

Ok i just got 2 dual fans from a newer taurus and am wondering what relay to buy. I thought about just having one come on when the car is on, and one to a switch , or maybe to a temp relay but where to buy these for a decent price?

Hey, I now have dual fans as well, from a Focus, and I found an easy and cheap way to wire them. I used cheap 40 amp relays from Autozone, and a temp switch from Summit that goes somewhere in the cooling jacket. The Summit switch is a switched ground point. It's open when the engine is cool, and closes the ground when the coolant reaches a certain temp. It acts as the ground for the relay for the second fan so it only creates the ground when hot enough. It works great. The full time fan works good too, and I just used an IGN source, the fuse panel, to trigger that relay so it's on when the car is on. I also used the IGN to trigger the second fan, but without the ground it won't turn on until hot. I would suggest a manual switch in the ground of the full time fan relay, so you can turn it off for testing when you have the IGN on. Here's a diagram I made, and a link to the Summit switch.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...gDiagram01.jpg

Durango Boy you are the man, I was actually going to pm you with some ?'s but man u beat me to it. Hopefully I can find a cheaper thermostat on fleabay, does that just screw into the rad?

There is just something wrong about pulling parts off a Ford and putting them on your vette :ack: next thing you will post that you put the interior out of a toyota in your vette :U


:leaving:

So my ? about one like this is could I use a ele temp gauge then? Cuz wouldnt this go into the port that the mech gauge goes in. I'm pretty excited about this conversion, lots to do while shes torn down in the garage waiting on new interior and carb

Lol na actually I just got hella lucky and got new factory seat covers in vinyl for 150 shipped gotta love fleabay . But I was looking at fiero or celica seats, but wanted to stay original

Ok well now my problem is the twin fans are a little to big to go straight across the radiator, looks like I am going to have to stagger them one low one high. Or I thought about one in the front as a pusher and one in the rear (engine compartment) as a puller. Watcha think? Now I wish I had gotten one large fan.
Either that or I will try to sell these and go back and get 1 large fan

My suggestion is to do what i did.Buy a set up from Dewitt's,i purchased the rad and fans and it bolted right up no mods needed.If you are just after an electric fan buy the fan kit from them and you will have everything you need to install it,and you won't have modify anything or scrounge around for parts and hope that they work :thumbs:

I have seen several of these junkyard finds installed and well they look just like that, a junkyard find :smash:

I have two temp gauges, and that T-stat switch. The stock temp gauge sender is where it's supposed to be in the driver's side head, and I have my mechanical temp gauge sender in the passenger side head. If I didn't have the second temp gauge I could have put the T-stat switch in that port. Since it's taken, I used a port in my intake manifold. If you don't have any of those available you can get a T-stat housing that has a port in it.

:rofl:

I would like to do that, but at this point I am not willing to spend that much cash on a set up which one could be fabbed up to work the same. I agree if done improperly it can look like trash, but Done correctly I believe it looks the same. We shall see.

I saw the fitting in the I am thinking about using that one, thanx

Try to find a set of Focus fans. It's a dual fan setup, and once the ears are trimmed off of the mounting tabs it fits perfectly between the A-arms.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...y/FocusFan.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...y/DualFans.jpg

I found this wiring kit on ebay think it would work ok? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=011

Has the thermostat and every thing

Yeah that'll work for a single fan.

Ok so I would just need to go buy another plain relay kit from auto zone, the ones there came with a thermostat also but it looked like a little probe instead of a screw in type like here, there any diff? and where would the probe go it was a inch or two long. And sorry for the million ?'s

Ok I am looking at the fans they are about the same size as the regular engine mounted fan, I may just try using one and seeing how it does(as I am about broke). Just going to wire it into the ignition so it's always on.

The probe you speak of goes in the fins of the radiator. I personally do not like this approach. Think using engine temp is more useful for when your fan turns on and off, instead of radiator temp.

The one fan will probably not move enough air if it was originally designed to be paired with another fan.

What diameter is the single fan and does it have it's own shroud?

didnt take the shroud it's a 13" give or take a little

Yeah that's a very small fan to be running independently. You'll want to make a shroud for it to cover most of the radiator surface if it's going to be effective at all.

I just got the relay kit off ebay, I am going to purchase another one when I wire everything up, I am on the hunt for focus rans right now, what year model will work any newer style?

I can't tell from the picture. Does that ebay kit have a threaded manifold probe or is it a radiator probe?

DB, why are you hooking up a MK8 fan? Is this in a different vette?

I believe it's the manifold probe.

Durango I'm notpositive about the fan ,But what I can tell you is Black with yellow in a ford is tradtionally a 2nd ignition lead. If you haven't found the answer yet lmk I'll look it up. hey man I didnt forget about the kick panel pics I just have been swamped I only cut the templates I'll pick up some gel coat over the weekend & try tomake time during the week. LOL sense we talked I ripped the car apart and went hell bent to hook up some tricked out stuff and ended up snowballing into a clutch ,U-joints , calipers ,rotors and brake line, and am about to order aexhaust I got the damn bug again why did I even start :willy: not supposed to fix what not broke aaarrrrgggg

What size threads does it have?

DB, if you're on... any Focus from 05-08, right? I'm hoping to go to the junk yard tomorrow.

This thread is old, and I started it before I switched to Focus fans and simpler controls.

Yeah all Focus share the same fan set. However, some had different blade counts and styles. All work very well and I don't believe the size or shrouding ever changed with the exception of the new '08 models.

Focus fan? I must've missed that: care to elaborate or share some links? Focusses are pretty common in Europe, so that would be an interesting option to look into for me.

I just wired up a dual spal set up using 2 relays. One hooked to a switched ignition the other to a temp sensor switch located in the head. One fan comes on with ignition automaticlly , but I can turn it off from inside of car. The other fan is turned on by the temp sensor at 200 degrees. Pretty simple Just like DB has, but sometimes thats not a bad thing.

It's easy, find a Focus, pull the radiator fan set, and install. They all have pretty much the same same fan set design. It's up to you to figure out the best way to mount it and control it.

I'll put it on my ever growing todo list ;) I'm just no hero on the electronics, so I'll have to call in some favors to do the relay and sensor wiring when the time is there. Perhaps TT or V-Twin or mayba Cajos could chip in by that time :cheers:

I posted a diagram above that should help a lot.

Question why are you guys adding electric fans to your C3's ?

I'm adding one to cool the car better its a known fact ele fans cool Better otherwise all cars today would come with mechanical fans. And it also cleans up the engine compartment. And
Other reasons

I went electric because I went to serpentine, and it was too much of a hassle to integrate a reverse flowing mechanical fan that wouldn't even work well with a stock shroud and I didn't want to make a custom shroud when I could just do electric.

Also cleans up the engine bay a Lot and cools better in traffic

Just curious how you all are mounting your fans to the radiator????

Tom Dewitt I think started that some time ago, with the dual Spals, the OEM radiator top/bot channel running along the core is apparently strong enough to allow that, but I don't have a OEM type rad so I just went off the four mounting tabs, having over with it.....two lateral aluminum channels, bolt the fans to them, and then attach some shroud extensions to provide flow from all over the core, the fans about 2" to the rear of my rad core....

:thumbs: I removed the whole damn assy from the car, support and all to get it done, much simpler, did it in an afternoon...

:thumbs:

Just a suggestion


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/67-68...spagenameZWDVW

For me, my original rad, shroud and fan were toast. I was stroking my engine and adding an aluminum rad, so electric fan was a much more viable option than a L82 fan/shroud. Plus a spreader bar will not fit with my L82 shroud. My car will never be back to original so I went electric.

Ahhh I cannot find any salvage yards around here that have the fans and shrouds. And I don't really want to pay 100 from ebay

I think I found one close to you. In Maiden, NC, is a salvage yard that has one listed for $50. Call them and see if it's what you need.

2000 Ford Focus Cooling Fan 2.0 DOHC
Stock #6F0342 $50
A Plus Auto Salvage
Maiden, NC
1-828-466-2211

Db your tha man. I just had a light bulb light up I though about searching for ford focus forums, found some guy partin his out about 25 mins away. And then you found that one to, you rule thanx man.

You're very welcome. :thumbs:

Okay you guys got me I'm in what type of fans do I want to pick up.I have access to a large junk yard I can basicly take anything I need or do they sell a electric fan kit for the C3's.

Man I called that junk yard they jumped the price to 100 jeez. I gotta get a fan, just got the new holley carb installed today. Took her from a 2 min spin with out a cooling fan on there( i know i know but I couldnt resist, man no more bottom end bog). And since i have all my gauges out couldnt tell how hot she got. But didnt seem to get around 200 soo all should be ok. The hunt is still on for a focus fan.

PM me your ZIP code and I will find you a few others tomorrow. Shame they raised the listed price.

Primarily herd mentality.

Here is a quote from Corvette Enthusiast, "What about aftermarket electric fans? Unless you get a really well-engineered dual-fan setup with a full shroud that covers the entire face of the radiator core (with pressure-relief flaps for added ram airflow at highway speed), they're a poor substitute for the factory fan setup, they don't move anywhere near the volume of air the fan/clutch system does, and they place a major electrical draw (30-40 amps) on the system at the worst time, when the alternator is at its lowest speed. The typical single round aftermarket fans that attach directly to the radiator core only draw air through the portion of the core that's enclosed within the diameter of the fan blades. the other 50 per cent of the face of the radiator core gets no airflow at all. The factory shroud ensures that air is drawn through every square inch of the core, all the way to the corners."

Eh one mans blah blah good quote though. I have a high output single wire alt anyways so no problem here. And from the ppl that have used the ele fan set ups from the high dollar spal to focus to taurus fans they have had good experience with lower temps so I'm down no turning back because I cut the shroud. No biggie cuz my car is no where near stock or matching numbers quality but a resto mod type.

Durango Boy, STOP what you're doing.

That Mark VIII fan IS a 2 speed fan, I run one on my big block. One is a low speed wire, one is a high speed. The black is indeed ground. I used two constant duty soleniods to run mine. One is power on, low speed, constant. The high is split between the 180 degree temp sensor in the head and the A/C. Either will trigger high speed. If somebody already answered, my bad, I didn't reaad all the thread. Tank
:thumbs:

Lol way to late but good info. He's already got the ford focus set up. And I'm on the hunt for it to. Pm sent DB

Any system on a car can be re-engineered badly...I have seen just as many bad mechanical fan setups as electric. Wrong size fan, no clutch, broken or missing shrouds, etc. Personally, I don't like the idea of a spinning metal blade on the front of my engine, esp when I am tuning it. Unless you are towing a heavy trailer,and need the extra airflow, I don't see where there is much of an application for a mechanical fan anymore, except for restorations.

Use a properly engineered electric fan with a shroud that fits your radiator well (hint: the factory puts out several that are far better engineered than the aftermarket junk, including the high priced units that all the checkbook rodders buy). I agree with the above comments, but I don't believe anyone here is talking about using one of those ridiculous tiny fans anyway.Radiator dimensions haven't changed that much; an hour walking around in a salvage yard should turn up a factory unit that will cover the entire core, and fit the car like it was made for it. Plus, unlike a Spal or some other aftermarket unit, if the motor dies you can buy a replacement anywhere.


Use a sufficient alternator (not a stock 35 or 40 amp unit; thats asking for trouble), and wire it properly with relays. Its not rocket science.

No airflow would only be during a stand-still ofcourse. And if you adjust or make something like the stock shroud, a single puller would function just the same. 30 or 40 amps? The Summit 16", 2000 cfm fan draws 13 amps, or is their information incorrect?

By the way: going electric frees up about 15 horsies :thumbs:

Recent above posts are correct in that any fan has to pull air from all over the core, and the way that is done is a properly built shroud there simply is no other proper install technique...it may WORK ok because the fans are so powerful it simply don't matter all that much, but why not do it correctly from the get go and have over with it??

:smash: :smash: :thumbs:

Why then, do you suppose all the newer corvettes have electric fans?

For me, overheating occured at low speeds. I could cool it down by revving the engine to get increased airflow, but what a pain in city traffic. Properly set up electric fans run full airflow, at idle if necessary, and do a much better job of cooling in this situation.

And yours is that "Corvette Enthusiast" is the ultimate authority!!!!

:willy: :rofl:

Always enjoy the logical and reasoned discussions on here. If you are running a single wire alt you might want to read this article though. ONE-WIRE compared to THREE-WIRE alternators

Those systems would be "a really well-engineered dual-fan setup with a full shroud that covers the entire face of the radiator core (with pressure-relief flaps for added ram airflow at highway speed)" as opposed to the aftermarket fans that most guys are cobbling together in their Sharks.

I never said they were the "ultimate authority". I would like to hear you refute any of the points that they make however.

Electric fans pull surges of 35A or more to start up. I have heard some report surges up to 100A.

15 horsies?!?! Which one of the electric fan manufacturer's web sites did you pull that number off of? Here's some interesting reading regarding that. The Myth Of The Electric Fan

the Mark VIII is not necessarily a 2-speed fan....
 

There is a lot of incomplete information out there. I was also under the impression that all Mark VIII fans were 2-speed. That is not the case. See the following thread.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...&highlight=fan

Independent of that, I use a Mark-8 fan(it's not a 2-speed), with a variable speed DCControl, and for backup (I'm paranoid) I also installed a 70 amp relay that kicks it on (at higher temp) if the DCControl ever fails.

Kid, the article has a valid point concerning the HP trades. I would however debate his premise that the fan only works at idle and very low rpm. I don't know the exact specs, but you can easily hear the clutch fan on our Corvettes pulling significantly more air at higher than idle rpms when reving the motor in neutral. And that is with a properly operating clutch fan. I can't tell you the number of times I have seen these fans bad on our cars......spinning well after the engine has stopped or stuck and whirring like a banshee. His point about the reliability is way off base. Just because the electrical fan has more potential failure modes, does not mean it less reliable. The design margin and life expectancy of the elements have a lot more to do with reliability and my experience is that the clutch fan leaves alot to be desired. Reliability prediction 101.
Another point I disagree with is:
We all know that an engine has a desired operating temp range. With my BB RamJet, that is ~200 +/- 5 degrees F. It has a 200 degree thermostat in it. The thermostat's job is to drive the temp up to that operating point (i.e. it provides regulation below operating temp.) The fans, in addition to air flow due to speed, provide the regulation above the desired operating point.

Your statement that I purchased my Dual Spal fan setup because of "Primarily herd mentality" is ridicules. The dual Spal electric fan setup controlled by my ECU provides much superior control of system temp than the old mechanical clutch fan could ever do.
"Ain't Technology Great"


Bullshark

Yep!
 

You've described my setup - including the ram-flaps!

Image courtesy of DeWitts:

http://www.dewitts.com/images/sp024.jpg

Here's one I 'cobbled together' for a friends '66 using a 3.8 L Ford Taurus fan and a DeWItt's rad. BTW the original '66 fan shroud didn't come with the above mentioned flaps either.

http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pD...IOZ2t2AovzL8HE

http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pp...2yFwzgiqVA4yM5

Look, if you don't want an electric cooling fan, don't get one! BUT the above noted fans did solve low speed overheating problems.

Hmmm.. seems like we have debated this before. :)

The article in CE states, "most fan clutches essentialy disengage over 3,500 RPM." You can choose whether or not you want to believe that statement; however, intuition would seem to confirm it. I can spin the fan on my Vette with my little pinky finger. I would think the air resistance at higher engine rpms would keep the fan from gaining rpms at a certain point. As far as reliability goes I can tell you how many times I have seen clutch fans fail - twice. That's in my 55 years around cars, 5 years as a line technician (we called ourselves mechanics back then) in a Chevy dealership back in the 70s when all cars had clutch fans. Both times the clutch locked up which made a lot of fan noise but didn't leave the driver stranded. I'm sure electric fans are reliable as well when everything is engineered correctly. But judging by the number of posts on the forums seeking help (this thread included) it seems that is not so easy.

I was able to get my focus fans relatively inexpensive on fleabay brand new.
Mooooo

Congratulations! You may have come up with something as good as your original setup. Assuming you upgraded your alternator and wiring to handle the extra load and got everything installed correctly.

I'm guessing you could have gotton the same low speed cooling gains by simply installing a new aluminum radiator. Your old radiator probably wasn't flowing too well anymore and of course an aluminum radiator is a more efficient heat exchanger than a copper/brass radiator. Or simply switching from a 5 blade clutch fan to a 7 blade may have given the same results as well.

I hope the junk Taurus fan doesn't leave your buddy stranded somewhere. Who knows how many miles that thing has on it already.

Mooo.

:rofl: Now that you mention it, I do believe we did. ;)

3,500 rpm......Yes, that I would choose to believe also. My LT-1 turns that at ~70mph down the highway. Well above idle.

You can certainly move the fan with your pinky and most likely spin it ~1/8 to 1/4 turn at room temperature. Any more than that you better get a new clutch. I will take that bet at full operating temp.

Agreed, I will accept your 3,500 rpm number.

Damn, they must have saved all the hard jobs for you. :rofl: I have two bad clutch fans in my garage just off my Vettes.:D

Most of the ones I have seen dealing with failure have been related to those poorly designed PWM speed controllers. Now there is a good example of bad reliability and waisted money. :yesnod: The others are mostly installation questions.

Peace. always like to debate in good fun. Due to my having 55 years around cars, my memory seems to be my biggest challenge. Probably to many exhaust fumes.:crazy: Sorry about not remembering our previous debates.:cheers:


Bullshark

Woot Woot I finally found a focus set up 80 shipped with wiring and all in mint shape more than I wanted to pay found it on a focus forum all the yards around here wanted 100 to 150 shesh. So should be here by next week that will give me time to finish my interior with gauges and seat covers. And man shell be back tearin up the streets

-Lurkin

OK i got one relay kit wired in with the sensor. Now my ? is can I just run the other to a switch inside the car with a relay wiring?

Yes, but that means you will have to keep mindful attention so you don't forget it. A switch with an indicator light, telling you it's on or off would be helpful. I have my constant fan on a switch that's in the nose so I can switch it off for garage work where the switch is on. I may not want the fan running using the battery. I always leave one fan on when operating the engine, and the second is temp switched.

Ok i had a typo i meant to say without a relay kit. Sorry about that

Again, yes, but make sure it's rated to handle 50 amps. The fan won't draw that much continuously but it will spike when you turn it on and that will fry most small switches. It would be smarter to use a relay, and put the switch onto the trigger wire or relay ground.

METHINKS Kidvette is mislead by his own experiences....most of the GM cars I had in the 60-70-80's had clutch fans and about the only cure I found was to tie off the clutch so it was a fixed fan....howled like hell gawgs but it worked....

KV only saw stuff under WARRANTY, dealer mechanics are bad sources for failure analysis as they only see what's under WARRANTY sort of like those 'reports' about product durability....

go out longer term to say 300k miles and you find the true stats....

I also submit that electric fans in Minnesota will see much less use than in FLORIDA.....

3500 rpm?? can you say un necessary induced airflow wasting engine power and gasoline today???

I agree with BullShark...

BTDT many times....

:thumbs: :eek:

MOOO!

I don't like mechanical fans

WTF?? so boo hoo too uoo too


not MY fault you can't understand my post....jeebus man, I gotta speel out every damn thing???

:lol: :lol:

Umm...that must not apply to all Mk. VIII fans. I have one (pulled from the car myself), and either of the hot wires or both together give the same speed. The only way to change it is with a PWM module.

just a wild guess on the fan wiring- possibly both have to be energized for high speed?

Ok just got my fans in today(finally) One connector has green with blue stripe wire. And the other has a black(probably ground) and green with white stripe. which wire is which?

I don't recall the colors but I cut off the connectors and used one power wire from both, and a ground from both. It helps to test them with a car battery, to make sure of which wires are the high speed. Both fans should be single speed, and one is an A/C fan that comes on when the A/C s switched on...I think, according to the Focus people.

Ok thanx there are only 3 wires total

Matt - Thanks for the leads on the fans, you're the man. I went to the one yard that was close to me (Oshkosh) and looked at their set of Focus fans... but it was in pretty rough shape. All the metal parts were rusty, so I was afraid that the motors would give out soon. And I wouldn't want that... So next to the Focus was an old Linclon Continental... with what I'm assuming is the same fan as the MK8. 16" single fan, 3 wires coming out. It looked like it was in pretty solid shape, so I picked it up for $40. I figure the single 16" will provide me with plenty of cooling power, my motor is very stockish.

I'm planning on buying this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Therm...mZ320271690870

To turn the fan on when it gets to 180. Any thoughts/suggestions anyone?

Thanks.