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Looks good! :thumbs:
After you take your first drive in the car with the new coilovers, let us know how it drives/feels compared to the stock setup. . |
NAPA sold me the wrong bolts. They said they were grade 8 but they are class 8.8. Note the OEM bolts are class 10.9 and these are class 8.8.
:nono: WRONG!:nono: |
I like your idea for the swap bar relocation. I talked to a few guys that have done their own blend of parts (for a coil over setup) and just ended up going with Exotic Muscle end-links. which are very narrow bodied and seem to clear the coil overs completely. Avoiding the dreaded swap bar relocation.
Although I would prefer this method, because it's clean and causes the least amount of alteration to the frame. |
Originally Posted by mnstrlt1
(Post 1573869599)
I like your idea for the swap bar relocation. I talked to a few guys that have done their own blend of parts (for a coil over setup) and just ended up going with Exotic Muscle end-links. which are very narrow bodied and seem to clear the coil overs completely. Avoiding the dreaded swap bar relocation.
Although I would prefer this method, because it's clean and causes the least amount of alteration to the frame. |
Originally Posted by PLRX
(Post 1573869579)
NAPA sold me the wrong bolts. They said they were grade 8 but they are class 8.8. Note the OEM bolts are class 10.9 and these are class 8.8.
:nono: WRONG!:nono: The nut for the attatching point in your snapshot will likely require a "hit" with a grinder to clear the original factory weld nut inside. Your "hole saw cut" is actually a good move and if you made it a popular bore you could likely go behind your self and snap in a "cap plug"! It would finish the install nicely. There are several different styles of "cap plugs" and I won't bother mentioning a type. If you know the dimensions of the bolts you used I'l supply a GM number for you for the "right stuff"! They will match the balance of the hardware on the car! |
:cool:
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Here I go. Got the right hardware from a store about 30 minutes from home.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...iloversF19.jpg Believe it or not all these for $2.94 http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...iloversF20.jpg Coat of paint- http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...iloversF21.jpg Dave suggested a cap but I could not find one and it will be covered by the inner fender. http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...iloversF22.jpg Likely I'll continue on Sunday, we got a run this Saturday.:steering: |
Nice, when you are all done let us know any difference in the ride! It looks like you are doing a good job, taking your time, and doing it neatly!!! :thumbs: :cheers:
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Finished the installation last night.
BUT Before I tell you the future please read the following in case you have installed anything lately. I noticed the upper control arm was moving, moved like a broken ball joint but that would be impossible because all those parts are brand new and super strong. When I did this rebuild (LT4) I used brand new parts and all were torque to GM FSM specs. The upper and lower ball joints were loose and the upper control arms' nuts were loose. Obviously haver 1,000+ miles the new components settled, I re-torqued the ball joints to specs and torqued the upper control arms nut to 30 lbs ft because the FSM or the Haynes manual does not offers a spec for them. I realized I did the same front suspension (not coilovers) rebuild on my LT1 back in May 2008. Opened the hood and :eek: The same results. Gentlemen, check your Vettes, you may have loose bolts. My torque wrench works and it is within specs. Charlie work on calibration and gave me the wrench's reading and it is good-to-go. Now, the Vette with the new coilovers it is sitting higher than stock and it has to be lowered. Will be working on that during May and it will have to be re-aligned. |
Great write up. Good to know about the bolts. On the control arms I used paint to mark the bolts, so if they became loose I would see it.
Also, ACE Hardware has real good bolts, grade 8. Low prices too. |
Originally Posted by steve40th
(Post 1573916329)
Great write up.
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Originally Posted by steve40th
(Post 1573916329)
Great write up. Good to know about the bolts. On the control arms I used paint to mark the bolts, so if they became loose I would see it.
Also, ACE Hardware has real good bolts, grade 8. Low prices too. Take a look http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...rx/BOLTS-1.jpg http://www.chapelsteel.com/mpa-psi.html NAPA called the Class 8.8 bolt a Grade 8 bolt. If you see a 8.8 in a bolt it does not means it is a Grade 8 bolt. A grade 8 bolt is way stronger than a Class 8.8. |
Originally Posted by PLRX
(Post 1573917277)
Thank You Steve. Regarding bolts, I've learned a lot about bolts last Saturday.
Take a look http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...rx/BOLTS-1.jpg http://www.chapelsteel.com/mpa-psi.html NAPA called the Class 8.8 bolt a Grade 8 bolt. If you see a 8.8 in a bolt it does not means it is a Grade 8 bolt. A grade 8 bolt is way stronger than a Class 8.8. If you need serious bolts there are places like fastenal etc that provide quality controls too. But be prepared to pay. |
Looking for a drivability/ride quality update... :)
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
(Post 1573951690)
Looking for a drivability/ride quality update... :)
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No modification or renforcement to the upper shock tower?
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Originally Posted by 86PACER
(Post 1573951969)
No modification or renforcement to the upper shock tower?
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Originally Posted by PLRX
(Post 1573951886)
I'm down with some flu, sickness or whatever this crap is. I could not walk earlier and the garage was the last place I thought of this weekend,
-Tom |
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
(Post 1574203527)
Feeling any better? Any update on ride QUALITY?
-Tom http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1574160699 I should be done with it by Sunday if I dont run into other BS. |
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