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I like your idea for the swap bar relocation. I talked to a few guys that have done their own blend of parts (for a coil over setup) and just ended up going with Exotic Muscle end-links. which are very narrow bodied and seem to clear the coil overs completely. Avoiding the dreaded swap bar relocation.
Although I would prefer this method, because it's clean and causes the least amount of alteration to the frame.
I like your idea for the swap bar relocation. I talked to a few guys that have done their own blend of parts (for a coil over setup) and just ended up going with Exotic Muscle end-links. which are very narrow bodied and seem to clear the coil overs completely. Avoiding the dreaded swap bar relocation.
Although I would prefer this method, because it's clean and causes the least amount of alteration to the frame.
Thanks, I wanted to go that route but the sway bar was touching the coilover and it needed to be relocated.
NAPA sold me the wrong bolts. They said they were grade 8 but they are class 8.8. Note the OEM bolts are class 10.9 and these are class 8.8.
WRONG!
You were shopping in the "wrong" store for the hardware you needed. You should have been attempting to "match" the balance of the hardware used in the asssembly of the suspension components. I was actually going to suggest last evening that you replace the hardware with the "right stuff". You need the correct DIN and 10.9 property class and NOT CAD plated hardware. The bolts & nuts should be washer faced and the nuts should be "prevailing torque" the "right stuff" by part number should be easier to find than "off the shelf" at NAPA, HD. Fastenall yes but they will be a special order and maybe minimum quanities.
The nut for the attatching point in your snapshot will likely require a "hit" with a grinder to clear the original factory weld nut inside.
Your "hole saw cut" is actually a good move and if you made it a popular bore you could likely go behind your self and snap in a "cap plug"! It would finish the install nicely. There are several different styles of "cap plugs" and I won't bother mentioning a type.
If you know the dimensions of the bolts you used I'l supply a GM number for you for the "right stuff"! They will match the balance of the hardware on the car!
Before I tell you the future please read the following in case you have installed anything lately.
I noticed the upper control arm was moving, moved like a broken ball joint but that would be impossible because all those parts are brand new and super strong. When I did this rebuild (LT4) I used brand new parts and all were torque to GM FSM specs. The upper and lower ball joints were loose and the upper control arms' nuts were loose.
Obviously haver 1,000+ miles the new components settled, I re-torqued the ball joints to specs and torqued the upper control arms nut to 30 lbs ft because the FSM or the Haynes manual does not offers a spec for them.
I realized I did the same front suspension (not coilovers) rebuild on my LT1 back in May 2008. Opened the hood and The same results.
Gentlemen, check your Vettes, you may have loose bolts.
My torque wrench works and it is within specs. Charlie work on calibration and gave me the wrench's reading and it is good-to-go.
Now, the Vette with the new coilovers it is sitting higher than stock and it has to be lowered. Will be working on that during May and it will have to be re-aligned.
Great write up. Good to know about the bolts. On the control arms I used paint to mark the bolts, so if they became loose I would see it.
Also, ACE Hardware has real good bolts, grade 8. Low prices too.
Great write up. Good to know about the bolts. On the control arms I used paint to mark the bolts, so if they became loose I would see it.
Also, ACE Hardware has real good bolts, grade 8. Low prices too.
Thank You Steve. Regarding bolts, I've learned a lot about bolts last Saturday.
NAPA called the Class 8.8 bolt a Grade 8 bolt. If you see a 8.8 in a bolt it does not means it is a Grade 8 bolt. A grade 8 bolt is way stronger than a Class 8.8.
NAPA called the Class 8.8 bolt a Grade 8 bolt. If you see a 8.8 in a bolt it does not means it is a Grade 8 bolt. A grade 8 bolt is way stronger than a Class 8.8.
My Last Command in the Navy I worked with NDT(Non destructive tesing) welder. I learned so much about metals to make you sick. Grade 8 is a seriously good bolt. Class is liken to metric vs standard, and its not well known for the average shopper.
If you need serious bolts there are places like fastenal etc that provide quality controls too. But be prepared to pay.
Coilovers Installation (Front)
WRONG!
The same results.
Nice work. 
