My solution for mounting support brackets with headers
 

I used 3/8" x 1" aluminum stock to make this mounting bracket:

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...n/P1040659.jpg

It's got 2 countersunk 5/16" holes and uses the 1/4" spark plug harness mounting points.

I threaded a center hole for a 3/8" x 16 pitch attachment. It's attached with tapered allen head stainless screws.

Finally, I've decided to use a stud (vs using a bolt). It will be permanently installed using JBWeld. It's also stainless.

I finished the plate by polishing it.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...n/P1040655.jpg



Note: You can see the spark plug harness mounting holes for the rear two cylinders in the pic.

Oh yeah....

Total cost was less than $10 for two brackets (mounting points). Custom length support braces will still need to be made. (Alternator and A/C support braces btw).

Looks slick :thumbs:

Very nice!

Looks great! My only question is, if you JB weld the thing, it might get in the way of the machinists jig if you ever get the heads milled or ported.

I'm only planning on permanently bonding the stud -- to the bracket I made. The allen screws attaching it to the head will remain removable!

(Probably will use silicone to help them stay in the head.)


Note: I also considered punching the stud on the backside so it can't come out -- of the bar I drilled. (I considered a center punch or a stotted punch to deform it. Then, I just decided to bond the stud in.)

Gregg, what about a jamb nut on the stud? Loctite Red has a heat range of 450 deg. I think that would work on the stud, jamb nut and allen screws as well. Looks great by the way.

Why not flip the piece over,and countersink for a flathead allen. Install the flathead allen with some locktite and your done.

Very nice work there!
Bonding the stud in will work just fine.

Years ago someone gave me a tip for keeping non critical hardware (bracket to head mounting bolt(s) from vibrating loose / backing out: On the threads of the bolt(s) use a wrap or two of plumber's teflon tape....never had another issue with loosing or loosening hardware after that.

Get that car put back together.

:thumbs:

Good idea! I like how people on this forum are always thinking. :thumbs:

Well done!

Thats a good idea.

Thought of that.

A 3/8" taper allen has SO much depth that the head would require a countersink as thick as the aluminum bar. There wouldn't be enough threads left! (to keep it from spinning).

Very Nice!

I'll have to keep that in mind when I do mine ....

Hey, those look like Vette Tech headers! How are they working out for ya?

They really perform well -- on my engine stand! (Update later this summer).

Thanks to everyone for the compliments.