My solution for mounting support brackets with headers
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From: Overland Park Kansas
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My solution for mounting support brackets with headers
I used 3/8" x 1" aluminum stock to make this mounting bracket:
It's got 2 countersunk 5/16" holes and uses the 1/4" spark plug harness mounting points.
I threaded a center hole for a 3/8" x 16 pitch attachment. It's attached with tapered allen head stainless screws.
Finally, I've decided to use a stud (vs using a bolt). It will be permanently installed using JBWeld. It's also stainless.
I finished the plate by polishing it.
Note: You can see the spark plug harness mounting holes for the rear two cylinders in the pic.
It's got 2 countersunk 5/16" holes and uses the 1/4" spark plug harness mounting points.
I threaded a center hole for a 3/8" x 16 pitch attachment. It's attached with tapered allen head stainless screws.
Finally, I've decided to use a stud (vs using a bolt). It will be permanently installed using JBWeld. It's also stainless.
I finished the plate by polishing it.
Note: You can see the spark plug harness mounting holes for the rear two cylinders in the pic.
Last edited by GREGGPENN; May 26, 2010 at 10:49 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Oh yeah....
Total cost was less than $10 for two brackets (mounting points). Custom length support braces will still need to be made. (Alternator and A/C support braces btw).
Total cost was less than $10 for two brackets (mounting points). Custom length support braces will still need to be made. (Alternator and A/C support braces btw).
Last edited by GREGGPENN; May 26, 2010 at 10:50 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
(Probably will use silicone to help them stay in the head.)
Note: I also considered punching the stud on the backside so it can't come out -- of the bar I drilled. (I considered a center punch or a stotted punch to deform it. Then, I just decided to bond the stud in.)
Last edited by GREGGPENN; May 27, 2010 at 01:05 AM.
Instructor
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From: Bridgewater Ma.
I'm only planning on permanently bonding the stud -- to the bracket I made. The allen screws attaching it to the head will remain removable!
(Probably will use silicone to help them stay in the head.)
Note: I also considered punching the stud on the backside so it can't come out -- of the bar I drilled. (I considered a center punch or a stotted punch to deform it. Then, I just decided to bond the stud in.)
(Probably will use silicone to help them stay in the head.)
Note: I also considered punching the stud on the backside so it can't come out -- of the bar I drilled. (I considered a center punch or a stotted punch to deform it. Then, I just decided to bond the stud in.)
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Tampa Florida
Bonding the stud in will work just fine.
Years ago someone gave me a tip for keeping non critical hardware (bracket to head mounting bolt(s) from vibrating loose / backing out: On the threads of the bolt(s) use a wrap or two of plumber's teflon tape....never had another issue with loosing or loosening hardware after that.
Get that car put back together.
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Good idea! I like how people on this forum are always thinking.
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From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
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A 3/8" taper allen has SO much depth that the head would require a countersink as thick as the aluminum bar. There wouldn't be enough threads left! (to keep it from spinning).
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
