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-   -   Rust Prevention on C-1 frame ...Kroil? (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c1-and-c2-corvettes/2634823-rust-prevention-on-c-1-frame-kroil.html)

xiaoman 07-10-2010 11:43 AM

Rust Prevention on C-1 frame ...Kroil?
 
Hello,
I am still trying to get my 1958 corvette on the road.. tweaking the motor and while its down I decided to work on a few other things.
I have no rust issues on the frame and have painted the exterior of the rails but I also know that boxed frames are notorious for holding moisture and hiding rust. I have seen posts on using waxed based as well as oil as a barrier/sealer.
I would like to us the oil as it seems a better option to me as I am not sure that the wax will migrate into small/tight areas... (POR 15 may not either) for those of you that have used this method (oil) can you tell me which oil you have used and how you applied it. I live in Ca. so no Ziebart here.
Regards,Xiaoman

1955 copper 07-10-2010 05:24 PM

If you don't drive on the beach in salt water you ant going to live longer to see your frame fall apart so why worry . My engine and trans leeks a little so the oil keeps it from rusting. :ack::thumbs:

xiaoman 07-10-2010 06:55 PM


Originally Posted by 1955 copper (Post 1574654746)
If you don't drive on the beach in salt water you ant going to live longer to see your frame fall apart so why worry . My engine and trans leeks a little so the oil keeps it from rusting. :ack::thumbs:

1955 copper,
Thanks for the reply... not worried, just want to keep the old car as clean as yours..you are correct about the oil leaks as the front half of my frame is cleaner (oxidation wise) than the back half....maybe I should just loosen a few more bolts on the oil pan!
Regards,Xiaoman
P.S. sorry for the dual post ..tried to edit but couldn't

Viking427 07-10-2010 08:56 PM

Undercoating in the old days consisted of changing your oil on a dirt road, splashing it all over the undercarriage, then driving down the dusty road. No wonder restoring the undercarriage is the dirtiest part of the job in modern times. If you do decide to use Kroil, PB blaster or equivelent on the frame, its just kerosene and transmission fluid.

1955 copper 07-10-2010 11:56 PM


Originally Posted by xiaoman (Post 1574655415)
1955 copper,
Thanks for the reply... not worried, just want to keep the old car as clean as yours..you are correct about the oil leaks as the front half of my frame is cleaner (oxidation wise) than the back half....maybe I should just loosen a few more bolts on the oil pan!
Regards,Xiaoman
P.S. sorry for the dual post ..tried to edit but couldn't

Clean as mine? I hope not , for the first time in over 30 years today I just water blasted the frame , oil and grease every where and now I'm a mess. But no rust it was oily every place you could think of. I still have a 30 year oil rear seal leek :cheers:

Steve59 07-11-2010 09:16 AM

If you aim the engine oil draft tube just right you can get an oil spray on the frame all the way back to the cross member. C-1 version of rust prevention.....just kidding...:)

kenmo 07-11-2010 01:59 PM

How about outfits like Rust Check or Krown Rust that spray a heavy almost WD40 type of coating inside the frame rails?

Not sure if Rust Check and Krown rust are in the USA but they are popular in Eastern Canada...

Cheers

Ken

devildog 07-11-2010 02:25 PM

I have used green phosphoric acid on my 61 and many, many oil field and off-shore process skids for years. The phos-acid reacts with the iron-oxide surface rust to form an iron-phosphate surface. The surface is protective, hard with a satin black finish. This is often used as a primer base on steel bridges, etc.

I use a siphon air nozzle with a small tip to insert into the various factory holes in the C-1 frame. It sort of fogs inside the box frame and protects the internal surfaces. I do it periodically every few years when car is up on a lift. Inexpensive, mild acid, not corrosive to things under a C-1. Not a hazard, slight irritation if you get it on your hands.

Many other good options; this is cheap, easy and an old industrial treatment. Can be bought at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.

Joe

xiaoman 07-11-2010 07:41 PM


Originally Posted by kenmo (Post 1574661855)
How about outfits like Rust Check or Krown Rust that spray a heavy almost WD40 type of coating inside the frame rails?

Not sure if Rust Check and Krown rust are in the USA but they are popular in Eastern Canada...

Cheers

Ken

ken, thanks for the reply as i live in l.a. it is difficult to find rust treatment center in my aera,when i lived in michigan they were all over the place..maybe devildog has a solution. thanks again xiaoman

xiaoman 07-11-2010 08:36 PM


Originally Posted by syp (Post 1574662052)
I have used green phosphoric acid on my 61 and many, many oil field and off-shore process skids for years. The phos-acid reacts with the iron-oxide surface rust to form an iron-phosphate surface. The surface is protective, hard with a satin black finish. This is often used as a primer base on steel bridges, etc.

I use a siphon air nozzle with a small tip to insert into the various factory holes in the C-1 frame. It sort of fogs inside the box frame and protects the internal surfaces. I do it periodically every few years when car is up on a lift. Inexpensive, mild acid, not corrosive to things under a C-1. Not a hazard, slight irritation if you get it on your hands.

Many other good options; this is cheap, easy and an old industrial treatment. Can be bought at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.

Joe

Joe,
thanks for the suggestion ..Where would I get the air nozzle attachment..is it just a spray bottle or something from Eastwood? is the phos-acid a sort of encapsulator and no harm etc.?
thanks xiaoman

devildog 07-12-2010 12:15 AM


Originally Posted by xiaoman (Post 1574665091)
Joe,
thanks for the suggestion ..Where would I get the air nozzle attachment..is it just a spray bottle or something from Eastwood? is the phos-acid a sort of encapsulator and no harm etc.?
thanks xiaoman

You could use an empty spray bottle used for house hold cleaner, but the air nozzle is available where they sell air tools...it is like a air nozzle used to blow dust off, but has a a small side fitting to attach a hose. It sucks (venturi effect) the liquid out of a bottle and atomizes it in the airstream.

No, phos-acid does not encapsulate, it reacts and turns the surface rust to iron-phopshate which is a hard, protective surface.

You might find a pint or qt bottle and try it. Like I said it has been used for decades as a primer on steel before painting. It is not a strong acid, just makes a surface that is resistant to oxidation (rust)

toms silver 60 07-12-2010 04:51 PM

Devildog-Are you referring to Ospho?
 

Originally Posted by devildog (Post 1574667364)
No, phos-acid does not encapsulate, it reacts and turns the surface rust to iron-phopshate which is a hard, protective surface.

You might find a pint or qt bottle and try it. Like I said it has been used for decades as a primer on steel before painting. It is not a strong acid, just makes a surface that is resistant to oxidation (rust)

Ospho is sold in quart and gallon jugs, primarily a phosphoric acid solution best I can figure.


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