Rust Prevention on C-1 frame ...Kroil?
07-10-2010, 11:43 AM
#1
Racer
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Rust Prevention on C-1 frame ...Kroil?
Hello,
I am still trying to get my 1958 corvette on the road.. tweaking the motor and while its down I decided to work on a few other things.
I have no rust issues on the frame and have painted the exterior of the rails but I also know that boxed frames are notorious for holding moisture and hiding rust. I have seen posts on using waxed based as well as oil as a barrier/sealer.
I would like to us the oil as it seems a better option to me as I am not sure that the wax will migrate into small/tight areas... (POR 15 may not either) for those of you that have used this method (oil) can you tell me which oil you have used and how you applied it. I live in Ca. so no Ziebart here.
Regards,Xiaoman
I am still trying to get my 1958 corvette on the road.. tweaking the motor and while its down I decided to work on a few other things.
I have no rust issues on the frame and have painted the exterior of the rails but I also know that boxed frames are notorious for holding moisture and hiding rust. I have seen posts on using waxed based as well as oil as a barrier/sealer.
I would like to us the oil as it seems a better option to me as I am not sure that the wax will migrate into small/tight areas... (POR 15 may not either) for those of you that have used this method (oil) can you tell me which oil you have used and how you applied it. I live in Ca. so no Ziebart here.
Regards,Xiaoman
07-10-2010, 05:24 PM
#2
Safety Car
If you don't drive on the beach in salt water you ant going to live longer to see your frame fall apart so why worry . My engine and trans leeks a little so the oil keeps it from rusting. 
07-10-2010, 06:55 PM
#3
Racer
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Thanks for the reply... not worried, just want to keep the old car as clean as yours..you are correct about the oil leaks as the front half of my frame is cleaner (oxidation wise) than the back half....maybe I should just loosen a few more bolts on the oil pan!
Regards,Xiaoman
P.S. sorry for the dual post ..tried to edit but couldn't
07-10-2010, 08:56 PM
#4
Undercoating in the old days consisted of changing your oil on a dirt road, splashing it all over the undercarriage, then driving down the dusty road. No wonder restoring the undercarriage is the dirtiest part of the job in modern times. If you do decide to use Kroil, PB blaster or equivelent on the frame, its just kerosene and transmission fluid.
07-10-2010, 11:56 PM
#5
Safety Car
1955 copper,
Thanks for the reply... not worried, just want to keep the old car as clean as yours..you are correct about the oil leaks as the front half of my frame is cleaner (oxidation wise) than the back half....maybe I should just loosen a few more bolts on the oil pan!
Regards,Xiaoman
P.S. sorry for the dual post ..tried to edit but couldn't
Thanks for the reply... not worried, just want to keep the old car as clean as yours..you are correct about the oil leaks as the front half of my frame is cleaner (oxidation wise) than the back half....maybe I should just loosen a few more bolts on the oil pan!
Regards,Xiaoman
P.S. sorry for the dual post ..tried to edit but couldn't
07-11-2010, 09:16 AM
#6
Drifting
If you aim the engine oil draft tube just right you can get an oil spray on the frame all the way back to the cross member. C-1 version of rust prevention.....just kidding...
07-11-2010, 01:59 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
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How about outfits like Rust Check or Krown Rust that spray a heavy almost WD40 type of coating inside the frame rails?
Not sure if Rust Check and Krown rust are in the USA but they are popular in Eastern Canada...
Cheers
Ken
Not sure if Rust Check and Krown rust are in the USA but they are popular in Eastern Canada...
Cheers
Ken
07-11-2010, 02:25 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
I have used green phosphoric acid on my 61 and many, many oil field and off-shore process skids for years. The phos-acid reacts with the iron-oxide surface rust to form an iron-phosphate surface. The surface is protective, hard with a satin black finish. This is often used as a primer base on steel bridges, etc.
I use a siphon air nozzle with a small tip to insert into the various factory holes in the C-1 frame. It sort of fogs inside the box frame and protects the internal surfaces. I do it periodically every few years when car is up on a lift. Inexpensive, mild acid, not corrosive to things under a C-1. Not a hazard, slight irritation if you get it on your hands.
Many other good options; this is cheap, easy and an old industrial treatment. Can be bought at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
Joe
I use a siphon air nozzle with a small tip to insert into the various factory holes in the C-1 frame. It sort of fogs inside the box frame and protects the internal surfaces. I do it periodically every few years when car is up on a lift. Inexpensive, mild acid, not corrosive to things under a C-1. Not a hazard, slight irritation if you get it on your hands.
Many other good options; this is cheap, easy and an old industrial treatment. Can be bought at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
Joe
07-11-2010, 07:41 PM
#9
Racer
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ken, thanks for the reply as i live in l.a. it is difficult to find rust treatment center in my aera,when i lived in michigan they were all over the place..maybe devildog has a solution. thanks again xiaoman
07-11-2010, 08:36 PM
#10
Racer
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I have used green phosphoric acid on my 61 and many, many oil field and off-shore process skids for years. The phos-acid reacts with the iron-oxide surface rust to form an iron-phosphate surface. The surface is protective, hard with a satin black finish. This is often used as a primer base on steel bridges, etc.
I use a siphon air nozzle with a small tip to insert into the various factory holes in the C-1 frame. It sort of fogs inside the box frame and protects the internal surfaces. I do it periodically every few years when car is up on a lift. Inexpensive, mild acid, not corrosive to things under a C-1. Not a hazard, slight irritation if you get it on your hands.
Many other good options; this is cheap, easy and an old industrial treatment. Can be bought at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
Joe
I use a siphon air nozzle with a small tip to insert into the various factory holes in the C-1 frame. It sort of fogs inside the box frame and protects the internal surfaces. I do it periodically every few years when car is up on a lift. Inexpensive, mild acid, not corrosive to things under a C-1. Not a hazard, slight irritation if you get it on your hands.
Many other good options; this is cheap, easy and an old industrial treatment. Can be bought at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
Joe
thanks for the suggestion ..Where would I get the air nozzle attachment..is it just a spray bottle or something from Eastwood? is the phos-acid a sort of encapsulator and no harm etc.?
thanks xiaoman
07-12-2010, 12:15 AM
#11
Burning Brakes
No, phos-acid does not encapsulate, it reacts and turns the surface rust to iron-phopshate which is a hard, protective surface.
You might find a pint or qt bottle and try it. Like I said it has been used for decades as a primer on steel before painting. It is not a strong acid, just makes a surface that is resistant to oxidation (rust)
07-12-2010, 04:51 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
Devildog-Are you referring to Ospho?
No, phos-acid does not encapsulate, it reacts and turns the surface rust to iron-phopshate which is a hard, protective surface.
You might find a pint or qt bottle and try it. Like I said it has been used for decades as a primer on steel before painting. It is not a strong acid, just makes a surface that is resistant to oxidation (rust)
You might find a pint or qt bottle and try it. Like I said it has been used for decades as a primer on steel before painting. It is not a strong acid, just makes a surface that is resistant to oxidation (rust)
