1981 LS1 motor mounts
 

I want to install a LS1 in my 1981 does any one know of a company that makes a kit for the motor mounts for this

There are lots of them do a search for it. Many available for this. Lots more involved than just motor mounts.
Check the sticky on LS swaps, lots of info there.

I read in a book that there was no mounts for this model but I found some on ebay that said they would fit i dont know who right. I know there is alot more than mounts just working on one issue at a time this is just a weekend project it strange but it is my release from stress :crazy:

The 81 is no different than any other C3. The yall use the same mounts. The LS motors all use the same pattern on the side of the block. They do make the mounts that move the motor 1 inch back or forward or in the stock location. The ones I used moved it up 1 inch and it fits fine. Dont beleive everything the book tells you. I found a few things that were not exactly correct. Every car is a little unique and some things fit and some dont. I have a post here on my install and point out some of the things that I had to modify. Mine is a little more custom than some but like you I enjoy the build and making it work.

The mounts used will depend on the trans used. What are you planning on running?

I was looking into a six speed but only if the shifter fits in the stock location

A Keisler 6speed will but that is your only option, the factory T56's will not allow the shifter in the stock location.

that was what i was leaning towards to get a complete swap package

You just have to be a little creative.

:cheers:

Rick B.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...0/100_1850.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...0/100_1887.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...0/100_2010.jpg

With a T56, you'll want the plates to move the engine sorward as much as possible. It's shifter is quite a ways back and as rick showed, will need to be offset.
A Richmond 6 speed will work with the 1" setback or standard plates:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-C...item3f0d1045e2
Although the setback plates put the motor really close to the firewall in my case.

I first bought a set of plates that put the motor to far back. The cylinder head was very close to the firewall. I could not even get the bolt out of the back of the cylinder head to remove the chain. I now have the motor set 1 inch forward and everything lines up much better. I do have a hydraulic clutch so the Z bar is not an issue and I have a custom shift plate so where the shifter comes up is not an issue. I just found everything fit and looked better with it 1 inch forward. here is a picture of the mount. This is in the 1 inch forward position. You can see the holes forward of the mount that would be used to move the engine back further. I will not be using them and will just redrill the two upper holes.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e/100_2824.jpg

Awesome, my buddy has a machine shop with CNC machine and planning to have something fabbed up. :cool:

I was fixing to say the DIRTY DINGO is the best mount for the money right now.

http://dirtydingo.com/store/American...335/index.html

Look at these before you buy anywhere else.

So is the lower bolt of the engine mount going through the adapter into the block? If so, that's the same type of mount that I have. I bought my adapter plates a few years ago on ebay before there was a variety on the market.

:cheers:

Rick B.

TROPIC_THUNDER, I wish I knew about those mounts before I bought mine, those are nice. The ones I have will work, but I sure do like the way those look, I might have to switch them out.

Riggs.

Yes that is correct. I just have to relocate the 2 upper mounting holes but the lower one is the one that goes into the block. I think this is the best location for the motor.

I saw those other mounts from DD with multiple holes but I did not want all those holes in the mounts. I will cut off the front two holes once I get the new holes located.

So these mounts give the most adjustability, will they work ok for my LS2?

I may order them this week.

Just be careful on these. I stripped out the threaded holes VERY easily. I did not even get to build up any torque and the hole stripped out. I have since relocated the holes and drilled out the holes and will run a bolt through the back side. There is not a lot of threads and it is just aluminum.

Good to know G, thanks.:thumbs: