1981 LS1 motor mounts
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: danville va
I read in a book that there was no mounts for this model but I found some on ebay that said they would fit i dont know who right. I know there is alot more than mounts just working on one issue at a time this is just a weekend project it strange but it is my release from stress 
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
The 81 is no different than any other C3. The yall use the same mounts. The LS motors all use the same pattern on the side of the block. They do make the mounts that move the motor 1 inch back or forward or in the stock location. The ones I used moved it up 1 inch and it fits fine. Dont beleive everything the book tells you. I found a few things that were not exactly correct. Every car is a little unique and some things fit and some dont. I have a post here on my install and point out some of the things that I had to modify. Mine is a little more custom than some but like you I enjoy the build and making it work.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 34,453
Likes: 665
From: Republic of Texas
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 19
With a T56, you'll want the plates to move the engine sorward as much as possible. It's shifter is quite a ways back and as rick showed, will need to be offset.
A Richmond 6 speed will work with the 1" setback or standard plates:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-C...item3f0d1045e2
Although the setback plates put the motor really close to the firewall in my case.
A Richmond 6 speed will work with the 1" setback or standard plates:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-C...item3f0d1045e2
Although the setback plates put the motor really close to the firewall in my case.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I first bought a set of plates that put the motor to far back. The cylinder head was very close to the firewall. I could not even get the bolt out of the back of the cylinder head to remove the chain. I now have the motor set 1 inch forward and everything lines up much better. I do have a hydraulic clutch so the Z bar is not an issue and I have a custom shift plate so where the shifter comes up is not an issue. I just found everything fit and looked better with it 1 inch forward. here is a picture of the mount. This is in the 1 inch forward position. You can see the holes forward of the mount that would be used to move the engine back further. I will not be using them and will just redrill the two upper holes.
Last edited by Gordonm; Oct 13, 2011 at 06:32 AM.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 260
Likes: 4
From: San Antonio TX
I first bought a set of plates that put the motor to far back. The cylinder head was very close to the firewall. I could not even get the bolt out of the back of the cylinder head to remove the chain. I now have the motor set 1 inch forward and everything lines up much better. I do have a hydraulic clutch so the Z bar is not an issue and I have a custom shift plate so where the shifter comes up is not an issue. I just found everything fit and looked better with it 1 inch forward. here is a picture of the mount. This is in the 1 inch forward position. You can see the holes forward of the mount that would be used to move the engine back further. I will not be using them and will just redrill the two upper holes.
http://dirtydingo.com/store/American...335/index.html
Look at these before you buy anywhere else.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
I first bought a set of plates that put the motor to far back. The cylinder head was very close to the firewall. I could not even get the bolt out of the back of the cylinder head to remove the chain. I now have the motor set 1 inch forward and everything lines up much better. I do have a hydraulic clutch so the Z bar is not an issue and I have a custom shift plate so where the shifter comes up is not an issue. I just found everything fit and looked better with it 1 inch forward. here is a picture of the mount. This is in the 1 inch forward position. You can see the holes forward of the mount that would be used to move the engine back further. I will not be using them and will just redrill the two upper holes.
Rick B.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 6
From: springfield ohio
TROPIC_THUNDER, I wish I knew about those mounts before I bought mine, those are nice. The ones I have will work, but I sure do like the way those look, I might have to switch them out.
Riggs.
Riggs.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I saw those other mounts from DD with multiple holes but I did not want all those holes in the mounts. I will cut off the front two holes once I get the new holes located.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 34,453
Likes: 665
From: Republic of Texas
I was fixing to say the DIRTY DINGO is the best mount for the money right now.
http://dirtydingo.com/store/American...335/index.html
Look at these before you buy anywhere else.
http://dirtydingo.com/store/American...335/index.html
Look at these before you buy anywhere else.
I may order them this week.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Just be careful on these. I stripped out the threaded holes VERY easily. I did not even get to build up any torque and the hole stripped out. I have since relocated the holes and drilled out the holes and will run a bolt through the back side. There is not a lot of threads and it is just aluminum.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 34,453
Likes: 665
From: Republic of Texas
Just be careful on these. I stripped out the threaded holes VERY easily. I did not even get to build up any torque and the hole stripped out. I have since relocated the holes and drilled out the holes and will run a bolt through the back side. There is not a lot of threads and it is just aluminum.
