How to replace front sway bar links on a 66
 

Hi, that is my question. I want to replace the bushings and links on my car. Just want to make sure I do it without hurting myself...

Any tips , how to jack car etc....

Thanks

Jack

Dub.....tell me how....

Jack, If my memory is clear, you can't suspend the tire/wheel assembly because that loads the bar. You might need an extra pair of hand to coordinate the end link install. :cheers: Dennis

I can't find a video on the install...step be step procedure would help me if you know it....or someone more qualified.....lol.....

Jack

First get all that extra weight in your picture out of the car:D

Raise the car with two jack stands at the front frame lift points, and, raise the wheels under each lower control arm... More jack stands or bottle jacks...

I've done the job on plenty of other cars and its not dangerous or tricky. Here is the '67 procedure - your car should be the same I would think.

What you DO want to do is get really good rubber pieces, Corvette Rubber comes to mind if they sell the suspension bits (I don't know if they do). Some of the other repro products require some trimming in some cases..

Hi Frank,

Thanks,,,,,the book (Chilton from 47 years ago) had said jack up car, but left out the support the wheels....I have many jacks and stands....should be easy..I will do a post on the upgrades to the clutch rods , shocks and front end maintenance . 70,000 mile since I visited you...2010

I should be good for a few more miles.....

Jack

ps I am trying to title all my posts the correct way so that others may find them in searches.....

2010 since you were here ?
Gads....I can't even think about how fast that's gone...
Anyway. If you get on a roll the whole sway bar refurbishment is an hour job...the manual cites torque specs on the bolts which I will dig up if you need them. I just snug them up like I do shock absorbers (sort of)..

Jack:

The Chevrolet Service Manual generally has the right advice. However, a "trick" or critical step that is missing is:

You will need extra long bolts initially to attach the bar center link rubber bushings since they will appear to be too big/large. After everything is tightened up on the bar, remove these extra long bolts one at a time and install the correct/original length bolts.

Another way I have done this job is to use a floor jack and block of wood to compress each of the center rubber bushings (one at a time) and then just install the original length retaining bolts.

Unless you use one of these two above methods (or perhaps both methods), you will still be trying to finish this job in June. :D :D

As always, I enjoy the pic of your car and riders. :thumbs:

Larry

Sorry no car picture
 

Attachment 48093376Hi Larry, thanks for the advice . I was wondering about that...

enjoy I am sorry , no car in picture as I was on the beach in Nice , France

Jack

Just did mine on the 65. Drive front of car onto ramps. You want the suspension in a loaded state so the angles of the mount brackets are parallel. The sway bar will not have any tension on it. Replace links. If the links are too tight to get the nuts on use a floor jack to push up on the bolt heads to get s little more thread.

Tom

I was going to use jacks, but I like the ramps . I lost mine in one of my many moves.....will stop off at Harbor Freight today and pick up a set.

I will do the job tonight .......I think....

Jack

Jack:

I found over the years that it is best (for me) to support the front of my car on jack stands PLACED UNDER THE LOWER A-ARM COIL SPRING POCKETS and not the frame. This loads the front suspension instead of having it hanging.

But the ramps are also a good approach for this job...........it was a great suggestion. But it can be done successfully without the ramps as I and others have described.

Good luck.............just remember longer temporary bolts and maybe a bit of help from the floor jack and wood block on those rubber center bar to frame pieces/supports. :yesnod: :D

Larry

Job completed on Sway bar and links
 

I found that using ramps worked best for me. No load on sway bar made for easy removal. I used a small jack with a socket extension and 1/2 " socket to push bolt/bracket , rubber bushing, against frame to bolt bracket. As you can see from the pictures, the rubber bushings are showing wear after 70,000 miles.

I bought a set of Rhino ramps....$39 at Walmart....$60 to $90 from online vendors . Light weight 3 lbs. total and they stack and stand up for storage. I use to have steel ramps....heavy and hard to move and store.

Your hired jack! :D Dennis

It was easy
 

Hi Dennis, looking at the photos , my undercarriage isn't the prettiest, but it works pretty well. Have fun this summer and maybe I will see you in Pittsburgh for the Vintage Grand Prix

Jack

The cannon was made for my son on his Birthday last month!

Yeah - those old ones were pretty shot. You might even be able to feel the difference with the new bushings. Good job.

Hi, when ever we do upgrades, it is always subjective as "it made a difference that you can objectively feel..."..but I feel good about it . The bushings were not old 7years, but they had 70,000 miles on them.

Jack

Jack from the pictures it looks like you installed the stabilizer link bolts backwards. Bolts go up from the bottom with nut on top.

I think you are right. I installed them the way I took them off. As you can see from pictures. I did not install them 7 years ago. Does it really matter?.....was it done so the bolt treads would not get dinged by rocks etc ?

Jack

Hmmm - without looking at the AIM I can't be sure. But typically when possible, a bolt is installed with the nut on the bottom to minimize moisture and road chemicals from sitting in the slight pocket of the juncture of the nut and bolt if the bolt is on top and seeping into the threaded area promoting rust. But possibly GM went the other way on that one.

Correct. Guess I wasted my time posting the Shop Manual procedure with pictures early in the thread
(* SIGH *)